Jeez what went wrong

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Megamix068

Megamix068

0
May 25, 2014
34
Dfw
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Hi there. I thought things were going good but last week I had slightly green water. I shocked pool with 2 lbs cal hypo. That was friday. I went in today with these numbers and they are calling for 12 lbs sodium bicarbonate and 2 cups an hour later of muriatic acid. I don't feel like that much muriatic is necessary. I sure could use some advice! 12500 gallon vinyl lined.
 
Welcome! :wave:

If you believe those results (I don't) the only things I see wrong are slightly low TA and slightly high CYA. That high FC is actually just fine for the CYA level.

The TA can be fixed with Baking Soda. (Common name for the sodium bicarbonate they just sold you) How much depends on the size of your pool, which we don't know since you haven't filled out the signature yet. Odds are, they are overdoing the TA and then having you add acid to bring it all back. Why? The TA isn't that low, and baking soda doesn't affect pH very much, and your pH is already at the low end of swimmable.

The high CYA level is indicative of a steady diet of trichlor pucks. For a number of reasons, we discourage them for daily use. Especially now that your level is getting quite high.

The number one thing wrong is that you are letting the pool store test your water and sell you things you may not need. If you had your own suitable test kit and did your own testing day-to-day and added only what you determine you need, your pool would look better than you ever imagined for less money than you thought possible. It's not too late to start.

Fill out your signature so we can help. Read our philosophy and learn our lingo. Learn about Pool Chemistry and what chemicals do what and where you can buy them cheaper. Baking Soda (That stuff they sold you today) costs about 4X as much at the pool store as at Walmart or Costco.

If it sounds good, learn about test kits. Or just skip that article and get the best bang for the buck.

By the way, what happened to you is a very mild case of being pool-stored. Add that phrase to your vocabulary. ;)
 
I just read the paragraph at the bottom of the test report. They actually explain why having CYA over 50ppm can be a bad thing. It looks like this might be one pool store that actually helps their customers! :)

But then you look up and see an FC reading with two significant digits, and the respect starts to fade...
 
What they said, Don't ever think a pool store is your friend, or has your best interest at heart above their own profit. Sure some are better and some are worse, but their primary effort is to sell you something, if not today then tomorrow.
 
Welcome to TFP!

I would suggest the reading Richard outlined for you, getting your own good test kit, and taking control of this yourself.

Judging by what they have already advised you, will keep you on a perpetual chemical addition roller coaster. We can show you how to run this much more smoothly and easily.
 
I did as directed. Pool is not looking clear. Small amount of green on the stairs.
Free chlorine: 7.8
Combined .4
TA: 100
CH: 290
CYA: 70
I used a new taylor 2006
Sand filter running 10 psi
12k gal pool vinyl
90 water temp sun all day
 
Megamix068 said:
I did as directed. Pool is not looking clear. Small amount of green on the stairs.
Free chlorine: 7.8
Combined .4
TA: 100
CH: 290
CYA: 70
Used taylor 2006
Sand filter running 10 psi
12k gal pool vinyl
90 water temp sun all day
Click to expand...
The pool isn;t clear because I didn't give explicit instructions about water treatment, just convincing you that you need your opwn test kit and that the pool store is not your friend.Now that we have some decent results, we can get down to it. You need to perform the Shock Level And Maintain process.

For 70 CYA, that means bringing the FC level up to 28 and replenishing it to keep it at 28 again and again every few hours until it passes all three tests. And thereafter, never letting it dip below 5. The alternative is to replace about a third of your water now, which will lower CYA level to 45 or so, which will lower shock level to 18 and afterwards, a minimum of 4. The payoff is that you may never have to do this again, and your water will be crystalline and sparkling well before Fourth of July.

To get from 7 to 28 is going to take a little over 3 full jugs of 8.25% Clorox (or the equivalent in stronger liquid pool chlorine) and probably two or three times that much the remainder of the day and that much again the next day and probably more, but at a lower rate. If all you have is some green tint and a little sliminess, it could be over by the end of the weekend. A seriously green and chunky pool usually takes about two weeks, but you're not that far gone.

So... it's your choice. Start a partial drain now and delay the SLAM process a little but save a bit of bleach, or get started tonight. You won't lose any of the bleach to sunlight overnight, so you could get a good kill going and hammer it again really early in the morning and get another big kill over before the sun really starts hitting the water. But long term, you'll be happier with a lower CYA level.
 

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TomBorg said:
I just read the paragraph at the bottom of the test report. They actually explain why having CYA over 50ppm can be a bad thing. It looks like this might be one pool store that actually helps their customers! :)

But then you look up and see an FC reading with two significant digits, and the respect starts to fade...
Click to expand...

They also indicated that FC of 9 was high for CYA of 80. It's like they almost get it. The paragraph at the bottom even talks about "over-stabilization" and "chlorine effectiveness", but they just can't seem to put it all together. To quote the great Maxwell Smart, "Missed it by that much."
 
Richard320 said:
The pool isn;t clear because I didn't give explicit instructions about water treatment, just convincing you that you need your opwn test kit and that the pool store is not your friend.Now that we have some decent results, we can get down to it. You need to perform the Shock Level And Maintain process.

For 70 CYA, that means bringing the FC level up to 28 and replenishing it to keep it at 28 again and again every few hours until it passes all three tests. And thereafter, never letting it dip below 5. The alternative is to replace about a third of your water now, which will lower CYA level to 45 or so, which will lower shock level to 18 and afterwards, a minimum of 4. The payoff is that you may never have to do this again, and your water will be crystalline and sparkling well before Fourth of July.

To get from 7 to 28 is going to take a little over 3 full jugs of 8.25% Clorox (or the equivalent in stronger liquid pool chlorine) and probably two or three times that much the remainder of the day and that much again the next day and probably more, but at a lower rate. If all you have is some green tint and a little sliminess, it could be over by the end of the weekend. A seriously green and chunky pool usually takes about two weeks, but you're not that far gone.

So... it's your choice. Start a partial drain now and delay the SLAM process a little but save a bit of bleach, or get started tonight. You won't lose any of the bleach to sunlight overnight, so you could get a good kill going and hammer it again really early in the morning and get another big kill over before the sun really starts hitting the water. But long term, you'll be happier with a lower CYA level.
Click to expand...


Would poolproof help ease my maintenance this summer? I only ask because everyone in my neighborhood uses it and won't shut up about it.
 
I'd recommend going with a borate addition but that product isn't the way I'd do it. This is how I plan to do mine : http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/4655-So-you-want-to-add-borates-to-your-pool-Why-and-How

Another thread on the topic: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/43718-Has-anyone-heard-of-Pool-Proof-Borate-Water-Harmonizer

Then you can brag how you did the same thing for less $$$ and then instead of a 40+ buck container a year you only need to make up what you loose during backwashing or if you drain some water off .
 
Richard320 said:
The pool isn;t clear because I didn't give explicit instructions about water treatment, just convincing you that you need your opwn test kit and that the pool store is not your friend.Now that we have some decent results, we can get down to it. You need to perform the Shock Level And Maintain process.



For 70 CYA, that means bringing the FC level up to 28 and replenishing it to keep it at 28 again and again every few hours until it passes all three tests. And thereafter, never letting it dip below 5. The alternative is to replace about a third of your water now, which will lower CYA level to 45 or so, which will lower shock level to 18 and afterwards, a minimum of 4. The payoff is that you may never have to do this again, and your water will be crystalline and sparkling well before Fourth of July.

To get from 7 to 28 is going to take a little over 3 full jugs of 8.25% Clorox (or the equivalent in stronger liquid pool chlorine) and probably two or three times that much the remainder of the day and that much again the next day and probably more, but at a lower rate. If all you have is some green tint and a little sliminess, it could be over by the end of the weekend. A seriously green and chunky pool usually takes about two weeks, but you're not that far gone.

So... it's your choice. Start a partial drain now and delay the SLAM process a little but save a bit of bleach, or get started tonight. You won't lose any of the bleach to sunlight overnight, so you could get a good kill going and hammer it again really early in the morning and get another big kill over before the sun really starts hitting the water. But long term, you'll be happier with a lower CYA level.
Click to expand...


Will draining 1/3 of the water out cause any problems with the liner?
 
Ok drained to roughly just over 12" water left in shallow end and filled back up. Cya looks to be about 50. Now do I adjust chlorine level or add acid first to get my ph down? Fc is 7 cya 50
Ta 100. I didn't know if I can go towards shock level and add acid at the same time.
 

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