Jeez what went wrong
- Thread starter Megamix068
- Start date
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Now would be a good time to adjust the pH as the reading isn't reliable while doing the SLAM. They say if the FC is 10-15 or more then not to trust the pH test. You can do the acid and let pump run for 30-60 min and then go ahead and dump in the bleach.
You should add pool info to your signature, makes it easier on everyone.
You should add pool info to your signature, makes it easier on everyone.
- May 25, 2014
- 34
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
And following "their" (TFP) way of maintaining is so much cheaper and easier than paying "Pool Store" and just putting in whatever they sell you and hoping it works !!
- May 25, 2014
- 34
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Approaching 24 fc right now. What is the general rule on watching ta and ph while this whole slamming process is going on? And also when can I do a boric acid introduction?
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Don't watch, it will only cause anxiety. Once you start to SLAM you should just concentrate on maintaining the SLAM level as best you can. The pH isn't accurate with high levels of chlorine so don't worry about it until the pool is clear and your FC is below 10ppm. Same with the TA.
The boric introduction will change the pH some so it's best to wait until the SLAM is done and then do the TA as it might be more difficult to do after the borates. IMHO I'd do the SLAM, then TA, then borates then pH. The borate addition will mess with the pH so you might as well wait till it's in and then work on a final adjustment.
The boric introduction will change the pH some so it's best to wait until the SLAM is done and then do the TA as it might be more difficult to do after the borates. IMHO I'd do the SLAM, then TA, then borates then pH. The borate addition will mess with the pH so you might as well wait till it's in and then work on a final adjustment.
- May 25, 2014
- 34
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
No, not if it is appropriate for the CYA level. If you had it that high with no CYA, you'd bleach out the liner.
- May 25, 2014
- 34
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
What would everyone advise the pool having a little green on the stairs in a couple months from now with all good numbers? Bump the fc up or go ahead and slam even if it's only very slightly green
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If you follow the chlorine / CYA table and keep feeding your pet daily 
there shouldn't be any chance of it happening.
Sorry, stole Richards pet feeding analogy.
there shouldn't be any chance of it happening.Sorry, stole Richards pet feeding analogy.
- May 25, 2014
- 34
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I let my chlorine level drift down to 10 over the weekend. I checked it last night and had it at 10.5. Checked it this am and at about 9.5. My fc is at .5. The pool looked crystal clear all weekend. I put the light on this am and I can see patches of green on the floor of the pool. Did I not slam it hard enough or am I just being paranoid? Slam it more or brush/vacuum and wait to see what happens?
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You are done when:
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear.
When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
Were you under .5 CC and did you pass an overnight chlorine loss test and was the water clear ?? If you're still seeing green it's not likely. We don't know, you never said (posted).
It's been five days since your last posting and seven days since you posted the pools FC level and I didn't go back further but a full set of test results might be in order for anyone to be helpful to your present situation.
Doing a SLAM is like killing cockroaches. You have to Maintain that chlorine level the whole time and kill all the algae. If you don't kill it all it just reproduces and comes right back and you start over at square one.
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear.
When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
Were you under .5 CC and did you pass an overnight chlorine loss test and was the water clear ?? If you're still seeing green it's not likely. We don't know, you never said (posted).
It's been five days since your last posting and seven days since you posted the pools FC level and I didn't go back further but a full set of test results might be in order for anyone to be helpful to your present situation.
Doing a SLAM is like killing cockroaches. You have to Maintain that chlorine level the whole time and kill all the algae. If you don't kill it all it just reproduces and comes right back and you start over at square one.
- May 25, 2014
- 34
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Ill do a full test right after work today. I thought I was done slamming since the water looked so crystal clear and my cc was under 5. When this process is done the water should have absolutely no sign of any green whatsoever?
- May 25, 2014
- 34
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Were you under .5 CC and did you pass an overnight chlorine loss test and was the water clear ?? If you're still seeing green it's not likely. We don't know, you never said (posted).
Green IS algae. You aren't done with the SLAM until the pool looks like above and your CC is under .5 and you pass the overnight chlorine loss. All three together and you should be good.
If you have a light or two don't forget to pull them out and check behind them for anything hiding and growing and same with steps. If you can pull them, do so and scrub the bottoms of the steps too, rinse well. Sweep the entire pool daily at least once.
With CYA of 55 and FC of 9 you aren't killing algae. It isn't growing wild but you need to be around 22ppm for that CYA level to kill it.
Green IS algae. You aren't done with the SLAM until the pool looks like above and your CC is under .5 and you pass the overnight chlorine loss. All three together and you should be good.
If you have a light or two don't forget to pull them out and check behind them for anything hiding and growing and same with steps. If you can pull them, do so and scrub the bottoms of the steps too, rinse well. Sweep the entire pool daily at least once.
With CYA of 55 and FC of 9 you aren't killing algae. It isn't growing wild but you need to be around 22ppm for that CYA level to kill it.
- May 25, 2014
- 34
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Update: I've been buying and using the regular great value bleach from walmart purchased at every walmart from my house to work. Recently the boss picked up some 3 pack Clorox from costco. The Clorox has been far more consistent it's like good beer vs natty light. Hands down. And the wallmart stuff was at about 4 different wallmarts so it's not possible I got a bad batch.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
When the SLAM process is done your water should be crystal clear, you should have no sign of green whatsoever, you will have a CC of .5 or less, and you will have passed an overnight chlorine test. I think the one you missed was the overnight test... you should SLAM again and until you meet all of the criteria, including overnight loss, and then you should be set to go.
If you have any nooks and crannies that algae can hide, lights, steps, etc, be sure to give them a good cleaning as well. It's also important to brush your pool walls and floor during the shock process as algae is good at hiding in any crevice it can find under debris or silt that might be there. I brush my floor often because we tend to get a lot of pollen and I want to be sure 1) it gets picked up by my filter, 2) it doesn't give algae a starting chance.
As far as where you get your chlorine... that shouldn't matter too much. If you're getting it from a store that doesn't have much business, they may have old stock, but otherwise you should be ok. You might find it is a little stronger at some places due to quick turnover of product, but that's a hard one to judge without testing before and shortly after the addition of the chlorine each time.
If you have any nooks and crannies that algae can hide, lights, steps, etc, be sure to give them a good cleaning as well. It's also important to brush your pool walls and floor during the shock process as algae is good at hiding in any crevice it can find under debris or silt that might be there. I brush my floor often because we tend to get a lot of pollen and I want to be sure 1) it gets picked up by my filter, 2) it doesn't give algae a starting chance.
As far as where you get your chlorine... that shouldn't matter too much. If you're getting it from a store that doesn't have much business, they may have old stock, but otherwise you should be ok. You might find it is a little stronger at some places due to quick turnover of product, but that's a hard one to judge without testing before and shortly after the addition of the chlorine each time.