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Thread: Breaker trips

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    Breaker trips

    So this weekend I installed my new Jandy APURE35PLG AquaPure Ei Water Chlorinator. Now when I turn my system my breaker trips. I can turn on my salt water system then plug in my pump 240v twist lock plug and it works. My breaker is a dual 15 amp gfci in basement wich trips any time I turn on bolth at the same time . I don't know what size pump I have due to age all paper work is gone . It is original with sand filter wich is jacuzzi brand installed late 80s pool Is 21000 gal with 2 returns 1 skimmer 1 floor drain . Is it possbly drawing to much amprage on start up and I need to up grade my breaker to dual 20 amp gfci ?
    Thanks for the help
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    Re: Breaker trips

    Is the aquapure a 120 volt unit? (According to jandy the ...PLG is 120 volt) If so I am surprised that the GFCI stays on at all. The GFCI is sensing a current imbalance due to the 120 volt load on one side of a 240 circuit.
    You can not simply upgrade the breaker unless you verify what gage wire is feeding the circuit.
    Unknown make 18' above ground (bought used in 1999) Sparco sand filter. Hayward 100,000 BTu heater. 2 speed pump

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    Re: Breaker trips

    The unit is 240v . U can purchase hard wire 240 or plugin 120 . I went with 240 due to my pump being 240. The wire feeding from panel to timer is 12awg . Was hoping to just upgrade breaker not wire cause the draw on startup is higher than the draw on run.
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    Isaac-1's Avatar
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    Re: Breaker trips

    It is also possible that your old breaker has just became weak and trips too easy
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    Re: Breaker trips

    You are probably going to need to get an electrician in to look at what you are trying to do. Breakers are sized to protect the wire downstream from them and you may be in an overload situation. More probable is that with the two items on one circuit (Chlorinator & pump) the second one starting is causing an imbalance and tripping the GFCI. Something in the back of my old and feeble mind is telling me you may need two separate circuits.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: Breaker trips

    It's made to run on the same circuit .you tie them bolth into the load side if the timer so the swg comes on at the same time as the pump
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    Re: Breaker trips

    Quote Originally Posted by Pdouble View Post
    It's made to run on the same circuit.
    Indeed it is.

    The next thing to check is the max current draw of the SWG plus max current draw of the pump, and compare that to the amp rating of the breaker.
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    Re: Breaker trips

    I don't know the ratings of the pump it's from late 80s no info still on it
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    Isaac-1's Avatar
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    Re: Breaker trips

    It may also be a run/start capacitor on the motor going out causing it to draw more amps on start up
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    Re: Breaker trips

    The Jandy APURE35PLG is a 120 volt unit. The "PLG" at the end stands for plug in. The APURE35 is the one that can be 120 or 240.
    The APURE35 is rated at 1 amp in 240 and 1.3 amp in 120. It's factory wired for the 120 or 240 so it's not like a motor where it's dependent on how you hook it up.

    By the time I read the whole thread I forgot you said you can start one and then the other and they run OK. I deleted the rest of the post as it wouldn't apply.

    You shouldn't need separate circuits. Being that they are wired in parallel as in their installation manual the GFI is seeing the total load pulled on one leg returning on the other leg. There wouldn't be an imbalance that the GFI is seeing and tripping it's more likely that the 1 amp the Chlorinator is pulling is just enough to push the initial start up load over the standard breakers 15 amp protection. Being a 1 or 1.5 hp motor running on 240 that's had to believe unless you do have a bad cap on the motor or a bearing that's binding and starting to drag. Any signs at the bottom of the pump housing or motor of a leak ??
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    Re: Breaker trips

    It's not the plg unit I copy and pasted the wrong one . 240v model I tried to check my amperage upon startup with a clamp on amp meter . It looks like each leg hits 12amps tough to get a good read. I can throw the breaker and it will hold but it trips every time the timer turns on . Still happening after changing the timer. It was old and rusted needed to go. Not so lucky still happening
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    Re: Breaker trips

    I understood you had the factory 240 just wanted to clear it up if anybody else was looking up specs and didn't understand the difference.

    Do you know if the pump itself (not motor) is a Jacuzzi also ?? Any ID tag on the pump ?? Is there anything at all on the motor for manufacturer or ... anything ??

    Soooooo. having a day to think about it in the back of my head what is happening is an added 1.3 amps is tripping the 15 amp breaker. I'd hate to see you buy a 20 amp GFI and in a couple weeks or months be tripping the 20 amp !! I have to assume whoever put the motor and circuit breaker in would have left more than a one amp buffer between motor need and breaker size. I think there is something starting to go out on the motor. That is just MHO from reading and rereading your post.

    A new capacitor might lower that initial draw if the present one is starting to break down. If the motor is really old that would be a pretty good guess, just not a guarantee. How long have you been there ?? The down side is that it would be a matter of buying one to find out. I don't know where you could get one tested. If you know or look up (youtube) how to do one the part itself isn't that expensive. Needs to be the correct P/N for the motor but the Hayward ones for my 1.5hp motor are around $20 on ebay.
    Then there is the possibility of a bearing in the motor being affected by age or moisture. That's why I mentioned looking under the pump or motor to see if you can see the remains (dried calcium trail) of a small leak. Maybe even some water dripping ?? You would need to take the motor loose and feel the rotation of the shaft for any binding or grinding. If so, rebuild or replace.
    Then there is the breaker. They can get weak over time but it's fairly rare to have one go.

    As for the 12 amp reading, yes if you get 12 amps on one leg you have to get 12 on the other. The problem is the meter you're using. I'm guessing you have the average under a hundred buck meter and it might be averaging or taking an RMS reading. To do that kind of diag on a fuse or circuit breaker blowing you almost need an oscilloscope or something like a Fluke brand meter (few hundred $$) that records a spike. Problem with the average meter is that it's still going up and trying to catch up when the circuit has already tripped the breaker and the voltage and amperage in the circuit are collapsing.
    Before your meter can read the maximum the circuit is already dead.
    I doubt it's actually tripping at 12 but if by chance you do have an expensive meter that's capable of reading spikes and you know it's reading the spike then you do have a bad breaker.
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    Re: Breaker trips

    I appreciate all the help!!! Just check pump no water or evidence of leak . It does run warm. Was able to make out a little from the manf tag with a flashlight it's Dayton 1/2 horse capacitor start motor
    21000 vinyl IG
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    Jacuzzi sand filter
    Aquabot AWD
    Jandy aquapureIE SWG

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