Taylor K-2006 Combined Clorine and CYA level questions for Intex Ultra Frame w/SWG

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S

SunFun

0
Apr 13, 2014
14
Pacific NW
Hi,

My setup in my Sig. Just setup the pool up last week, been about 6 days since I added 120lbs salt and 4-5 days since I added just under 1.2lbs of Cyanuric Acid per Intex 1% CYA recommendations for start (my water level is a couple inches lower).

SWG/Pump is running 4 hours per day in between 8am-Noon.

Taylor K-1766 Salt Test at 17 drops, 3400ppm / hth Salt Test strips show around 3000ppm. I was shooting for 3000ppm (but in Pool School I read "Salt 200-400 ppm ABOVE recommended optimum level").

Taylor K-2006 CYA Test: 45ppm

I did the Taylor K-2006 Chlorine Test, use 0.2ppm scale (and filled to 25ml). 28 drops = 5.6ppm FC

After 5 drops of R-0003, the sample did not turn pink immediately. I wanted for 30-60 seconds and left. Probably 4-5 (maybe more) I came back and the sample was pink.

I notice in a youtube video for this test, his sample immediately turned pink after adding the 5 drops of R-0003. Mine did not.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oa8iq8htR-s

Question 1 - Do I assume my Combined Chlorine level is 0 or near (I ignore the sample turned pink after several minutes)?

I did add the next drops after I saw it pink (after several minutes), took 3-4 drops to turn colorless, 0.6 - 0.8ppm CC - Not sure if I can or should rely on this one.

Question 2 - For this pool and SWG setup, I should increase CYA per the Pool School's recommendation to adjust CYA to between 70 and 80 (not Intex's), is that correct?

Question 3 - It seems like I may need to reduce the operating time of the pump/SWG to get my FC down between 3-5 (but this may depend on pool usage), is that also correct for me to assume?.

Perhaps I should wait a two more days since I read that CYA can take up to a week to dissolve.

Question 4 - Should I just add more Cyanuric Acid today since I'm low from the Pool School's recommendation? I'm not even sure how much more to add.

That's all the tests I have done at this point, I want to get the Salt, CYA and Chlorine levels correct first.

Thanks in advance - what a great forum.

EDIT: I should note our city water is chlorinated, not fluoridated.

Also added current equipment in signature to post for future reference in case I change my equipment

Intex 16' x 48" Ultra Frame, Intex 1600 GPH Saltwater System & Sand Filter Pump Set 56677EG (Copper Unplugged), Gorilla Pads (2), Keeper 03622 Camouflage 27' x 2" Ratchet Tie-Downs (2), Taylor K-2006 and K-1766 Test Kit, hth 6-way and Salt Test Strips
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

First, use 10ml of water for the FAS-DPD test so each drop is 0.5ppm ... no need for more precision.

1. Always add the 5 drops for the CC test, if it does not turn pink immediately, then your CC is 0. It will always turn pink if you wait too long and this is meaningless. You want to do the FC and CC fairly rapidly, like a drop / second and not wait longer for the CC test any more than required to switch bottles.

2. Yes. Protects the FC better and the SWG will not have to generate as much.

3. Your FC level is not really that high, you may need to reduce the run time though, especially if you raise the CYA.

4. Like you said above, the CYA may not register on the test for a week after it dissolves. No big hurry here. See how things go which your current CYA level.

The only other level that is really important is the pH. You will have to watch it and keep it in range. The TA needs to be known, but not really something that often needs to be changed. The CH does not matter for you unless it is very high.
 
SunFun said:
Question 1 - Do I assume my Combined Chlorine level is 0 or near (I ignore the sample turned pink after several minutes)?
Click to expand...
Yes.
I did add the next drops after I saw it pink (after several minutes), took 3-4 drops to turn colorless, 0.6 - 0.8ppm CC - Not sure if I can or should rely on this one.
Click to expand...
nope.

Question 2 - For this pool and SWG setup, I should increase CYA per the Pool School's recommendation to adjust CYA to between 70 and 80 (not Intex's), is that correct?
Click to expand...
yes.

Question 3 - It seems like I may need to reduce the operating time of the pump/SWG to get my FC down between 3-5 (but this may depend on pool usage), is that also correct for me to assume?.

Perhaps I should wait a two more days since I read that CYA can take up to a week to dissolve.
Click to expand...
yes to both.

Question 4 - Should I just add more Cyanuric Acid today since I'm low from the Pool School's recommendation? I'm not even sure how much more to add.

That's all the tests I have done at this point, I want to get the Salt, CYA and Chlorine levels correct first.

Thanks in advance - what a great forum.
Click to expand...
If it still shows low on Sunday, then just plug your pool size and your current reading and your target CYA in and poolmath will tell you how much. Here's how to use it, explained in greater detail: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/114-poolmath-pool-calculator
 
Thanks guys..

I'll recheck in a couple days, then add more CYA if necessary (which I assume will be needed).

I'll check pH later today instead of waiting.

I also noted in my OP that our city water is chlorinated, not fluoridated.
 
I went a head and did the Taylor K-2006 pH, TA and CH tests

pH - was yellowish so I assumed low, did the Base Demand Test which required 9 drops (maybe a 10th)
TA - 8 drops (step 4), 80ppm
CH - 5-6 drops (step 4), 50-60ppm (maybe more purplish at 5 drops, the 6th drop was definitely blue (same color as Taylor's case).

Questions - Did I assume correctly that the sample's pH was low (being yellowish)?

If so, looks like I need to investigate soda ash.*

If I need to add soda ash to raise the pH, should I wait until I get the CYA and Chrlorine levels correct or do it now?


*I used Kem-Tek's Cyanuric Acid (99.8%) and would most likely go with their ph Plus product, is there another product I should consider over Kem-Tek's offering?
 
Richard320 said:
just not packaged or priced as lavishly.
Click to expand...

Well, Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes (they stock Kem-Tek) and a couple pool / spa stores are around.. I don't really want more than 5lbs and don't want a bag, do like the plastic container storage...

I can check to see what Walmart has in stock and open to what else would be recommended to raise pH. Order a lot for Amazon to but was just going to pick something up tomorrow.

I think I will add about 1/2 pound (8oz) to start.. I don't know what the pH is now for the Pool Math, but if I enter 6.8 (for now), 7.5 goal - it states 17oz for 5000 gallons I believe.

thank you very much
 
That is right, just put in 6.8 as our now and target 7.2-7.5 or something and add the amount it tells you. Then recheck in 30 minutes to see if you are still too low and repeat the process. Never want to guess how low or high the pH is when off the scale.
 
SunFun said:
Well, Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes (they stock Kem-Tek) and a couple pool / spa stores are around.. I don't really want more than 5lbs and don't want a bag, do like the plastic container storage...

I can check to see what Walmart has in stock and open to what else would be recommended to raise pH. Order a lot for Amazon to but was just going to pick something up tomorrow.

I think I will add about 1/2 pound (8oz) to start.. I don't know what the pH is now for the Pool Math, but if I enter 6.8 (for now), 7.5 goal - it states 17oz for 5000 gallons I believe.

thank you very much
Click to expand...
The Borax and Washing Soda come in boxes like laundry soap. Borax is also good to freshen laundry, especially smelly white socks!
 
Are you posting about 20 Mule Team Borax?

I noticed in the Pool Math for my data, it says to add 17ox for Soda Ash (I would use Kem-Tek pH Up) or 34oz of 20 Mule Team Borax

I can get 5lbs of Kem-Tek ph Up for just over $7, it seems I need 2x the qty. of Borax.. what am I missing?
 

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I just found out we have Arm and Hammer's Washing Soda that we use in the laundry as a booster.... this appears to be the same has Kem-Tek's ph Plus for a lower price...

From reading on the forum, it appears 20 Mule Team Borax will raise pH without changing TA, my TA is good...

It appears I would have to use 2x 20 Mule Team Borax though there are some additional benefits apparently? http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/4655-So-you-want-to-add-borates-to-your-pool-Why-and-How

Which should I use (my wife will use both in the laundry)? I just want to use the recommended in our pool situation, either one's leftover can be used in laundry.
 
Since my TA is fine now (around 80ppm) and I'm just interested in raishing pH, should I still find and get some 31.45% Muriatic Acid to have on hand if I go the Borax option?


jblizzle said:
Either. Adding that amount of borax will not add much in the way of borates.
Click to expand...

From reading a few threads, it does seem to me that Borax (33oz) would be the better option as Washing Soda will also raise my TA (which is in target now).

Sounds like I don't have to monitor the borates unless I want to optionally start down the path of getting borates to 50ppm - where I would need 31.45% Muriatic Acid and LaMotte Borate test strips.

Is my thinking correct?
 
Update:

Yesterday I added a total of 32 oz of Borax (two applications of 16oz, 45 minutes apart and testing after the first).. pH at 7.6 (was 7.2 after the 1st 16oz, 7.6 after 32oz), and again 7.6 testing today. Note: Just before adding the first 16oz of Borax, tested TA and appears to have increased to 90 (though I pointed the return up to try to add Aeration earlier in the day with pump running for several hours).

Today, added 10oz of Cyanuric Acid (using two socks, 1/2 in each near the return) - wanting to increase from 40/45ppm to 70ppm (but didn't want to add all 19/20oz from Pool Math at once).. will recheck in a few days..
 
Update:

Last two days, ran the SWG for only 3 hours per day in the morning (Intex recommends 4).

There has been no activity in the Pool yet.. may get some today.

CYA: 55-58
FC: 7ppm
CC: 0ppm
TA: 90ppm
CH: 50ppm

pH: Not Tested

I took these tests about 45 minutes after the SWG ended it's daily run

Since I'll re-do the FC test later today around 6-7PM, I'll test the pH as well at that time.

Questions:

I read I should take the FC test in the late afternoon/early evening, perhaps that is why my FC is elevated?

The CYA has fully dissolved from the socks after only 2-3 days, should I still wait a full week (4-5 more days) before testing CYA and adding more Cyanuric Acid?

Lastly, should I be concerned that my TA is at 90ppm (last two times tested, a few days apart)?
 

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