Frustrated 2nd year AGP owner

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regimom88

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Apr 21, 2014
21
United States
Hi, I've been reading here for over a year (I think I've read almost everything at this point) but never posted. I have an Intex Ultra Frame 20x52 circular AGP. Last year we used the pool for a month or so before developing algae, I dumped loads of chlorine in before we gave up and took it down. This year we decided to try a SWG and a larger pump. We got this setup: http://www.intexcorp.com/index.php/home/above-ground-pools/agp-accessories/saltwater-system/56677eg.html

Long story short is I contacted Intex after the SWG would not stop showing code 90 (low flow) and they are sending us a new flow sensor. My problem is I have a full pool, no one has been in it, but I can't run the pump without the SWG and I'm afraid of developing algae again. I have no idea how long it will take Intex to get the replacement sensor to me and in the mean time I have a full pool that no one can swim in. I have the Taylor K-2006 test kit, I've read the book but to be completely honest I am COMPLETELY intimidated and have no clue what I'm doing with it. I hate to waste any of it as it wasn't cheap. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Also, regarding testing, do I need a dedicated salt water test kit in addition to the other kit? I thought I did but just need to be sure.
 
Welcome to TFP. :wave:

You can get salt strips to test for salt levels I believe.

Use unscented bleach. Dose your pool according to PoolMath. I am confused on why no one can use the pool. Why? Pour the bleach in and let the kids/grown ups mix it. The worst case scenario is you will have dirt accumulation in the pool until you get the pump back up and running.
 
I won't let anyone get in until I test it. We added salt to the water but since the SWG isn't working there is no chlorine in the pool. I also don't know if I can run the pump without the SWG or if running it with the flow sensor code flashing will harm the equipment. Intex hasn't been overly helpful and I have been unable to find sufficient info on this situation.

I will add chlorine but I though it needed to be shocked before use. I assumed that was my issue last year with algae, I didn't shock and test properly before we started using it.
 
Okay so I tested the water.

FC=.2ppm
CC=.6ppm
pH=8.0
TA=120ppm
CH=160ppm
CYA=0

So using the Pool Math calculator for an approximately 10k gallon pool, I need to add quite a bit of chemicals: bleach, muriatic acide, calcium chloride, and stabilizer. Is that right? Even with the SWG, given that it will eventually work? Does the SWG just mean it will generate it's own chlorine but I still have to add the other stuff? Still learning.
 
regimom88 said:
Okay so I tested the water.

FC=.2ppm
CC=.6ppm
pH=8.0
TA=120ppm
CH=160ppm
CYA=0

So using the Pool Math calculator for an approximately 10k gallon pool, I need to add quite a bit of chemicals: bleach, muriatic acide, calcium chloride, and stabilizer. Is that right? Even with the SWG, given that it will eventually work? Does the SWG just mean it will generate it's own chlorine but I still have to add the other stuff? Still learning.
Click to expand...

The SWG generates the Chlorine, so once it is up and running (assuming all is well) you won't have to add bleach (You will still need to test and adjust the SWG to get it dialed in). All other aspects of pool chemistry and care will be up to you.

I'm curious about your test results. are the decimals on FC/CC intentional? I don't have experience with the K2006 kit, but I'm under the impression it works the same as the TF100. If it does, the Chlorine measurements are in increments of 0.5

I would turn the SWG off, and run the pump treating the pool like a traditional manual chlorine pool until the parts come in for the SWG. If not, you'll have a swamp. If you're nervous about running the pump, then add the Muriatic Acid and Chlorine (not together). and brush the pool to aid the mixing of the water.

I would strongly suggest adding the MA slowly, If you have the ability, I would pre-dilute it before adding it very slowly. With no pump action the MA may pool and can damage the liner. (localized pH drop).
 
The decimals are intentional. The test said to take # of drops needed to change color and multiply by drop equivalence. I used 25mL sample with multiplier of .2ppm, needed 1 and 3 drops for FC and CC respectively. Unless I multiplied incorrectly, that's what it is. I haven't added any chlorine aside from the combined 30 minutes the SWG has run since Sunday so I assume that accounts for the low result.

I am currently running the pump, disregarding the SWG flow sensor beeping. I need to run the vacuum as some debris from the wind have settled on the bottom. I don't think I have algae yet.

So yes, I need to add all chemicals to balance water right away or just the bleach and stabilizer? Is timing important for additives? Can I add them throughout the course of one day?
 
Thank you krazykrames. I did that but the code 90 still beeps and flashes. I'll just continue to run it that way even though it's annoying. I'll use 10mL from now on. Could you explain the difference? It's just concentration, right? I'm heading to my Ace hardware to get everything. Again, advice on when or in what order to add chemicals? Can I add them all today? I'll need to test again after they're added, right?
 

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The 25mL will get you a reading to an accuracy 0.2ppm the 10mL will get you a reading to an accuracy of 0.5ppm. 0.5 is close enough for measuring chlorine and it uses less regents. You could put the CYA in a sock in front of a return right away, squeeze it once in a while to speed up the process and also put in the Muriatic Acid right away. Wait a half hour and put in liquid chlorine.
Don't bother testing CYA for about a week because it can take that long to completly show up. If you have a range in mind, shoot for the low side because it's easy to add more, not so much to remove. I don't have a SWCG so not for sure but that range of 70-80 seems a little high.
 
krazykrames said:
The 25mL will get you a reading to an accuracy 0.2ppm the 10mL will get you a reading to an accuracy of 0.5ppm. 0.5 is close enough for measuring chlorine and it uses less regents. You could put the CYA in a sock in front of a return right away, squeeze it once in a while to speed up the process and also put in the Muriatic Acid right away. Wait a half hour and put in liquid chlorine.
Don't bother testing CYA for about a week because it can take that long to completly show up. If you have a range in mind, shoot for the low side because it's easy to add more, not so much to remove. I don't have a SWCG so not for sure but that range of 70-80 seems a little high.
Click to expand...

regimom88 said:
The decimals are intentional. The test said to take # of drops needed to change color and multiply by drop equivalence. I used 25mL sample with multiplier of .2ppm, needed 1 and 3 drops for FC and CC respectively. Unless I multiplied incorrectly, that's what it is. I haven't added any chlorine aside from the combined 30 minutes the SWG has run since Sunday so I assume that accounts for the low result.

I am currently running the pump, disregarding the SWG flow sensor beeping. I need to run the vacuum as some debris from the wind have settled on the bottom. I don't think I have algae yet.

So yes, I need to add all chemicals to balance water right away or just the bleach and stabilizer? Is timing important for additives? Can I add them throughout the course of one day?
Click to expand...

That is my bad. I completely forgot about 25ml testing. I agree w/ KrazyKrames. Since your pump is running I'm not nearly as concerned about the MA pooling, just add it slowly.
 
Thanks so much for everyone's help!! Really, you're all lifesavers!

I'm going to add the CYA via sock and the muriatic acid right now. I will wait a bit and add the chlorine. What about the calcium chloride? Any optimal time required for adding it?
 
Just as an update, we received the new flow sensor from Intex and it still didn't work. My husband decided to take the circuit panel off (where the display is) and check wiring. Sure enough, the flow sensor wire wasn't connected properly. Works perfectly now.
 
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