Looking for advice

[Sea Slug]

This is the first summer with my new pool. It's a 20x40 42000 gallon rectangle. It is an auto pilot salt water system with a large sand filter. I removed the cover after winter and it was a swamp. I worked with the local pool shop and got the green to go away and had the pool perfectly clear and sparkling. The water chemistry was "perfect". I recently had some maintenance done to the pool which required me to drain the water down around 8 inches. Since I refilled the water that I drained it has remained at zero chlorine. The other tested parts of my water are good. I currently have 60 CYA and added 8 lbs of Power Powder Plus. The water has remained cloudy with a slight green tint. I can't figure out what I need to do to get the FC where it needs to be. I read about slamming the pool, is this what I need to do? If so, where do I start?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

[Richard320]

Welcome!

I may as well be the first to tell you that "The water chemistry was "perfect"" and "The other tested parts of my water are good." tell us nothing. We deal with objective numbers here.

With 60 CYA and a SWG, you should have no problem maintaining FC. That Cal-hypo you added should have raised FC to 17. Unfortunately, SLAM level for 60 CYA is 24, so you didn't do anything but annoy the algae that is probably sucking up your FC.

Is the SWG working? No warning lights are on, the cell is bubbling?
Do you have your own test kit?
Can you catch a sample of the water coming out of the return jet closest to the pump and test it immediately for FC? Even test strips would work for this quick test. If the water out of the return is showing FC and the pool is showing none, something is eating it up as fast as it can be generated.

And that means a SLAM. Be sure to read the prerequisites. Without a proper test kit, it's not going to work.

 

[karmabiker]

Welcome to TFP!

The first step is to get a recommended test kit. Most of us here use the TF-100 (the link to it is in my signature - pool stores don't stock the level of test kit we recommend and the tf-100 is the best value).

Once you have that and a good set of test numbers we can guide you through the SLAM process. In the short term - No algecide and leave the Powder Plus on the shelf. Stock up on household bleach - you will need a lot of it, walmart varietal unscented is fine. You can also use liquid shock or liquid chlorination. Be careful not to get poolstored when buying these (best to go to home depot, lowes or walmart).

Cheers!
Chris

 

[Sea Slug]

Thanks for the replies. I don't have that large of a test kit. I will buy one tonight and test the water. Thanks.

 

[Divin Dave]

I have nothing more to add other than to say Welcome to TFP!


Oh yeah, and tteer clear of the Pool Store. They are there to sell you anything they can talk you in to, wheter you need it or not. (seems like exactly happened).

That test kit will pay for itself 100x over and get you on your way in no time!

 

[Sea Slug]

Welcome!

Is the SWG working? No warning lights are on, the cell is bubbling? [/COLOR]

This is my concern. I am wondering if my SWG has gone bad. I can't think of any other reason for it to go from sparkly and clear to cloudy and no chlorine. Of course no on e in my area can test the cell to tell me if it's good or not. There are no warning lights on the controller. Can you explain the bubbling?

 

[karmabiker]

Thanks for the replies. I don't have that large of a test kit. I will buy one tonight and test the water. Thanks.

Keep in mind you will need to order it. Pool stores don't stock them.

Check this out for a comparison of test kits that have all of the components you will need: Test Kits Compared

The link in my signature will take you to the site to order the TF-100.

 

[duraleigh]

This is my concern. I am wondering if my SWG has gone bad. I can't think of any other reason for it to go from sparkly and clear to cloudy and no chlorine.

Do you have ANY kind of test kit?? (Disregard the bubbles for now)

 

[Sea Slug]

I typically take water up to the local pool shop since they are a mile up the street. I have a small kit that I bought to test chlorine and PH. I just ordered the TF-100 kit. I also talked to a guy today that told me I should have my salt at 3400 instead of 3100 because the manufacturer of my cell recommends a higher level that others. I'm wondering if I increase the salt if it will start making chlorine again. Initially this spring I was making too much salt and had to turn it down. So it's a little frustrating to be making nothing now.

 

[Richard320]

The bubbling is the electrolysis of the salt water to actually seperate the sodium from the chlorine. You should see some fizzing in the cell. You shouldn't see any low salt or error lights on.

If that's the case, then rinise a big plastic cup or bowl or pitcher and push it under water upside down, then tilt it up in front of the return while the SWG and pump are both on. A big air bubble will burp out. Move it up against the wall so the return stream totally flushes it out, then pull it up and test it right away. If it shows chlorine, probably several ppm, the SWG is running and it just can't keep up with the demand.

 

[Sea Slug]

If that's the case, then rinise a big plastic cup or bowl or pitcher and push it under water upside down, then tilt it up in front of the return while the SWG and pump are both on. A big air bubble will burp out. Move it up against the wall so the return stream totally flushes it out, then pull it up and test it right away. If it shows chlorine, probably several ppm, the SWG is running and it just can't keep up with the demand.

I ordered the TF100 yesterday and I ordered a new cell for my pool. After trouble shooting the cell over the phone it was determined the cell was bad. I did take a water sample directly from the return valve to have it tested.

FC: 2
TAC: 2
Salt: 2700
CH: 200
CYA: 60
TA: 110
PH: 7.8
PHO: 100

I added 3 bags of salt, some muriatic acid, and 12lbs of power powder to boost the chlorine until I get the new cell to try to keep algae growth to a minimum. Hopefully the new cell will quickly get my pool back to where it was.

 

[bmoreswim]

I added 3 bags of salt, some muriatic acid, and 12lbs of power powder to boost the chlorine until I get the new cell to try to keep algae growth to a minimum. Hopefully the new cell will quickly get my pool back to where it was.

12 lbs of whooey whattey? Just use bleach or liquid shock. I recommend reading pool school unless you understand why you added the whooey whattey. I'd also keep some of it on hand (bleach that is) for extra chlorination before/after parties, as well as to get your chlorination up to the proper level so the SWCG can work at maintaining that level, not reaching it.

You may also want to revisit your pool volume. A 20' x 40' pool would have to have perfectly square sides and bottom average 7' deep to be 42,000 gallons. That would be 4' shallow end and a 10' deep end. This number will affect chemical addition calculations. You can also key in on your volume after adding various chemicals as needed and seeing if the results are what Pool Math said they would be (on average). Any one chemical addition will vary somewhat.

We also like pics! How about you share one with the group?