D.E. Filter cleaning question

[Elgrecus]

I have learned a lot visiting TFP over the last year (thanks for all the help!). We have no more pool guy. I've been testing the water myself and the Pool Cleaner I bought is keeping everything very tidy. Now that summer is here (in Los Angeles) I noticed that the return water pressure is a little weak. The D.E. filter pressure is up a fair amount, about 30 PSI from about 15 or so.

I read the sticky on cleaning a D.E. filter and had a couple of questions:

1. Is this something I should do myself, or get someone to do it? I am a bit maxxed out on my appetite for pool maintenance. On the other hand, in my experience the local pool guys don't really do a fantastic job, so it might be one of those "if you want the job to be done right,..." situations. I believe a simple backwash may be sufficient. However, I don't know the exact filter model. It is a Pentair 4000 series but the sticker on the side where you are supposed to check the box indicating size of the filter is blank. That makes it difficult to know how much D.E. to add after backwashing.

2. What size hose do I need on my Pentair 4000 series filter? The pool equipment is in a shed so I don't want the water/D.E. to spew everywhere. The drain pipe has a 2-1/2" outer dimension. Is it OK for the water/D.E to water my citrus trees or lawn? We do have a salt water pool, so I am not sure if that is a good idea.

3. Lastly, and unrelated, what in the world is a pool diverter for? I have one, but have no idea what to do with it.

Thanks in advance for any help/encouragement!

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Found the owners manual:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...4hXZP-TN9OaYH2l4Q&sig2=1gpYfO3gbtSy-9Mm7enolA

See if you can find a serial number tag somewhere that tells you which one. With backwashing, only add 80% of the original amount of DE back into the filter.

I'm a DIY'r. But to each his own. Taking that baby apart is definitely a project - you will learn a lot... any idea when it was broken down and cleaned last?

I would look for a backwash hose that is long enough to reach away from any seen areas. Surprised they didn't hard plumb that with PVC since it's in a shed. Look at a big box store for a more heavy duty hose with that size diameter or you can get an adapter.

Can you elaborate on "diverter" - I'm not 100% what you're referring to.

 

[Richard320]

Your filter looks like this?


If you measure the height, you'll be able to figure out which model it is. That's how I had to do it. Even more precise is to measure the screen heights when you tear it down for a thorough cleaning. The only differences in them all is the height of the screens and the upper lid. Mine is a 48 square foot. The filter is 49" from the pad to the top of the tank, not including the pressure gauge/air bleed. The lid is 16" from the top of the clamp to the top of the tank, not including the gauge. Manual.

You'll see that blue hose on the left attached to the backwash port. There's a reducer and a threaded adaptor for the hose. All available at Lowes, including the blue vinyl hose. Be forewarned: spend ten minutes if you have to making sure there isn't one wrinkle or twist in that hose before you start the backwash, otherwise it will inflate so fast you won't believe it, and pop, spraying black gooey sludge everywhere. You don't have to make every mistake yourself, you can learn from mine.

The diverter fits in the skimmer, beneath the skimmer basket. If you have two unplugged holes, one is the suction, pretty obvious to see and feel. The other will go to the main drain. If you close the sliding door on the bottom of the diverter, all the suction will go to the drain. If you leave it wide open, all of it goes to the skimmer, the same as if it wasn't even there. If the water level drops too low, that float that rattles inside will close the inside passsage way and it will draw from the drain so you don't run the pump dry. Just experiment with the setting. Only close the diverter about 1/4 and watch the effect on the turbulence in the skimmer. When you can detect a slight change in the skimmer, that's enough main drain.

How handy are you? It's not a real difficult job, but it can get messy. I would do a full teardown, just to know for sure what the clean pressure is. I did that once, to know what shape the innards were in since everything else with the pool was wrong. And again when I switched to cellulose. Since then, I just remove the lid and attack the screens with the garden hose and a jet stream nozzle. That's the only advantage I can think of to have the backwash valve be under the tank -- the stuff just drains away as I blast it.

 

[Elgrecus]

Thank you frustratedpoolmom and Richard320 for the responses. The filter was cleaned and the cartridges were replaced by a pool guy about 18 months ago when we moved in, that much I know. I think I will attempt to do a simple backwash and see how that goes. Bought the DE today.

Richard320: I took some photos of the filter and found a drawing from Pentair. My filter is about 38" from the floor to the top of the lid, not including the gauge. So I am assuming it is a model 4036 which would require 3.6 pounds of DE after a backwash. Does that sound right? It is a little weird that the height is not exactly 36-9/16" like Pentair's diagram. I am an architect, so when you give me a diagram with an exact dimension like 36-9/16", I expect it to be dead on. In any case, it is closer to the height of the 4036 than the 4048. Sadly, I have a pool vacuum head hose that is 1-3/4" diameter but, according to Pentair, the outlet is 2" diameter. I might try a little duct tape to save myself another trip to the hardware store.

 

[Richard320]

I think you've ID'd it cirrectly.

No to the duct tape. You'll have the biggest mess you've ever seen on your hands if that hose pops off. Every bit of dirt that's landed in your pool in 18 months will be concentrated into black sludge and all over that floor.You'll have the pump pushing as much water as it can push unrestricted out that port. It's like a fire hose.

 

[Elgrecus]

Thanks Richard320. It sounds like there is some work to do with a reducer/coupler and some PVC solvent. Wish me luck!

 

[Elgrecus]

Just gave it a try and it worked fine. You are right, the duct tape did not work, but the pool equipment room had a section of the sill plate removed and the floor sloped to an area drain just past the wall. I guess it was "designed" to backwash the filter in the room and just have it drain out. Not the best management practice, but good enough for now. Thanks again for all your help.