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Thread: Electrical...wiring.

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    Electrical...wiring.

    Hey guys,

    So, I'm in the midst of my pool install. The electrical for the pool consists of a single 3/4 HP 110v pump.

    There is a shed about 10 feet from the pool.

    I was thinking I would run a 30a subpanel into the shed, probably using 10 gauge wire in conduit, so I don't have to dig 2 feet down in the shale that is my dirt.

    So I was thinking a 30amp GFCI breaker in the main panel.

    It's almost exactly 100 foot run to where I'd like to put the subpanel. I was planning on using 10-2 UF wire in plastic conduit to the subpanel. The subpanel just needs to have a few small breakers, as I'd like an outlet in the shed and then the circuit for the pump.

    I know there are some stipulations on the electrical for the pump...would these need to apply from the panel, or would they apply from the subpanel. Basically, I'm speaking of the use of THWN individually wrapped wires to the pump. as per code (NEC 680, I believe?)

    Also, I understand that subpanels in other buildings require their own ground rod. This has me a little confused. I know you isolate the ground and the neutral in such a situation. So, at the main panel, I'd hook up the hot, neutral and ground as normal for a circuit. Then at the sub I'd hook the hot and the neutral up as normal, but the ground wouldn't be hooked to the panel, it'd go to a ground rod?

    Anyway, any advice is appeciated. I've rewired my entire house, so I'm pretty good with electrical, but this going outside and then working with code for pools is a bit different.

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Electrical...wiring.

    You don't want a GFCI feeding a sub-panel. The loads will always be unbalanced and constantly trip the GFCI. Use separate GFCIs for each circuit.

    Other than that you seem to have figured things out quite well.

    You need to have a kill switch (or other disconnecting means) visible from the pool, and it is a good idea to provide an outdoor utility outlet near the pool (but not closer than 10 feet).
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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    TFP Guide

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    Re: Electrical...wiring.

    Jason is correct on the GFCI for the sub panel feed. You are basically running a Multi Wire Branch Circuit and GFCI's do not play well with that type of setup. You will need to run a 4 wire feed from the main to the sub. 2 hots, one neutral and one ground. In the main panel the neutral and ground will/can land on the same bar in the box. In the sub panel, you need to float the neutral. This means that it will not be bonded to the box or ground bar. The ground rod you drive will connect to the ground bar in the sub panel. The ground bar in the sub panel will be bonded to the box as well. Put in separate GFCI's for each circuit that will need them or use GFCI recepticles

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    Re: Electrical...wiring.

    Quote Originally Posted by danpik View Post
    You will need to run a 4 wire feed from the main to the sub. 2 hots, one neutral and one ground.
    What danpik said. IMO, if you are going to go to this much trouble, run 120/240V all the way out to the pool. You have a 120V pump now, but you may upgrade/add other equipment at some point. And if your current pump is dual voltage, it may run happier at 240V anyway.

    Also, check your local electrical code. Not all jurisdiction permit PVC conduit exposed (i.e. not buried).

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    Re: Electrical...wiring.

    Thank you for the replies.

    So talking about floating the neutral...this means I don't hook that wire up in the box...got it. But would I think hook it up to the circuits I have going out? Or would it just be an unused wire in the box?

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Electrical...wiring.

    Floating the neutral means you need a bus bar that is isolated from the cabinet and ground. All the other circuits would also be attached to it.
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    tucsontico's Avatar
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    Re: Electrical...wiring.

    SubliminalME,

    You're getting great advice! I'd definitely run 120/240V all the way to your pool pump area. I'll second the motion to carefully check your local electrical codes as many have been updated within the last two years, e.g., requiring Schedule 80 conduit if it is exposed above ground, etc.. Good Luck and send pictures!
    19,500 gal, 16' x 38' PebbleTec IG Pool, Built 4/2013; Pentair IntelliFlo VS 3050 3 HP Pump, Pentair Intellichlor IC40 SWG, Pentair IntellipH, Pentair 520 sq ft/150 GPM Cartridge Filter, A&A In-Floor Cleaner, Dolphin Nautilus Plus Robot (aka "Robbie"), Pentair EasyTouch Power Panel w/ Quick Touch 4 Remote Control, Autelis WiFi controller, Clear 12 mil Solar Cover on Presto SS Reel, Taylor K-2006 Test Kit.

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    TFP Guide

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    Re: Electrical...wiring.

    Quote Originally Posted by SubliminalME View Post
    Thank you for the replies.

    So talking about floating the neutral...this means I don't hook that wire up in the box...got it. But would I think hook it up to the circuits I have going out? Or would it just be an unused wire in the box?
    When you float the neutral, the neutral bar in the box is electrically isolated from the box and grounding circuit. All neutral wires are connected to it. This includes all wires going out to devices and the incoming white neutral wire. The reason for this is you do not want to have current flow on a ground wire. also, all wiring after the sub panel that is feeding pool related devices must have an insulated ground wire

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    Re: Electrical...wiring.

    Thank you guys. I was able to find some info online, including a great tutorial with pictures on the neutral isolation...straightforward once you can see it, that's for sure!

    Thanks again.

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