Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: New to testing pool

  1. Back To Top    #1

    New to testing pool

    I just received my TFP kit. I used it for the first time today.

    My pool has been open for 5 days. Today is the first day I tested it. It's a 21000 gal gunite salt water pool. I live in PA. I'm trying to follow the "Water Balance for SWGs" post but have a few questions related to salt and CYA below since those seem to be the first things to get into balance.

    Here are my less than stellar pool results:

    pH > 8.2
    CH = 350
    TA = 150-160
    FC = 3
    TC = 4
    CYA <= 20

    1. I've been told to wait for about a month for it to get warmer before adding stabilizer. Should I do this? CYA =20.

    2. I replaced my salt cell last year and my Hayward electronic unit says salt = 2900 but when using AquaChek salt test strip it was around 2500. Which should I rely on? When closing last year I know that it was over 3200 and no salt was added at opening.

    3. I added 1/2 gal of muriatic acid to lower pH and hopefully lower TA too since it was so high.

    Finally, what should I do first? I was thinking of adding 1/2 to 1 bag of salt. Then trying to focus on pH. How often do I test pH - when it's high? and how often when I finally get it in range? pH seems to be the one element I have a hard time controlling.

    Note: my pool is somewhat clean but still has some tree "helicopters" and dirt on the bottom. My Polaris robot is in the shop and i didn't get it to completely clean the bottom and sides after opening before it broke. I have brushed and used the net but can only get the bottom so clean.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. Back To Top    #2

    In the Industry

    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Sebring, Florida

    Re: New to testing pool

    Generally, you would lower your pH first but it is confusing to tell whether or not you have already done so. Are the test results current?

    Then, I would add the stabilizer....there is no need to wait.

    What is your water temp?
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Tucson, AZ

    Re: New to testing pool

    1. I would get the CYA up to 40-50ppm now and raise it to the recommended 70-80ppm for the SWG when you are going to start using it.
    2. The only thing that matters is what the SWG thinks ... the fact that you are within 400ppm is better than I usually do
    3. When? Test the pH again after 30 minutes and add more if required

    Add the salt whenever you want, it does not affect anything. Make sure the SWG is turned off for at least 24 hours though.

    You may need to test the pH every few days.

    Your CC is higher than we like, so you may need to go through the SLAM Process. At a minimum raise the FC up to around 10ppm with bleach and Perform the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see what you get.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Re: New to testing pool

    Water temp is 70. I added 1/2 g acid but didn't check it afterwards. Will check tomorrow to see if any change. I'm running a super chlorinate to boost FC. Should I fix pH before adding stabilizer and salt?

  5. Back To Top    #5
    Richard320's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    San Dimas, CA (LA County)

    Re: New to testing pool

    Quote Originally Posted by HoltPool View Post
    Water temp is 70. I added 1/2 g acid but didn't check it afterwards. Will check tomorrow to see if any change. I'm running a super chlorinate to boost FC. Should I fix pH before adding stabilizer and salt?
    I see TC of 4 and FC of 3, which means CC is 1. That means SLAM.

    If so, you adjust pH, add just enough CYA to get you to 30 or so, and use bleach to raise the FC level to shock level. Your SWG won't be able to do it. If the water's already clear, there's a good chance you'll pass the overnight test and the CC test after only a day or two. And then you can raise CYA up and add salt and let the SWG maintain things.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts