New Pool, Newbie - What to do next

Jump to latest Follow Reply
K

KHeffner

0
Gold Supporter
May 13, 2014
23
Macungie, Pennsylvania
We began our pool build last year but it got cut short due to the weather changing drastically in the N.E. We are finishing up now and I have had the water going for about 2 weeks. Water looks clear and I have been going to the Local Pool store for "Free Testing" using their computer. The first testing, about 2 weeks ago, they had me add several chemicals (don't remember at this time). I found this forum and love it. I ordered my Taylor Test kit and it arrived today. However, yesterday I went back to the pool store, just to see where I was at. They told me my "Chlorine Residual" was high and my PH was at 8.1. They has me add BioGuard Lo 'N Slow.

Today I used my new Taylor test kit and these are the readings I came up with.
F.C - 3.8
PH - 7.4
TA - 160
CH - 230
CYA - 100

After reading the forums I see that my TA and CYA are high and am looking for any direction and suggestions on what to do next. I am already fed up with the Pool Store guy.

The gave me a "free" bucket of the BioGuard Silk Smart sticks and a "free" bucket of Easy Shock and Swim.

AS A SIDE NOTE: In between filling and my first test at the pool store, the decking guys came to pour the deck. Well it appears as if they were washing their trowls in the pool and the bottom of my pool ended up covered in concrete dust and debris. It is cleaned now (after about a dozen vacuuming sessions). I don't know if this effected the water chemistry at all.

I appreciate all the info on this forum and look forward to gaining control of my own pool chemistry. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
 
Welcome to TFP. Congrats on the new test kit. Which one did you get?

Your CYA is off the charts now and you've got a brand new pool. You're going to have to check your CYA with your test kit and see what it is. If it's 100ppm you'll need to perform a partial drain refill to correct it. Don't worry about TA right now until you get all your other numbers dialed in. Stay out of the pool store for testing. They are going to shove chemicals at you unless you say NO! You can get Muriatic Acid for about $7 a gallon or so at Lowes to lower your pH.
 
I got the K-2006. Yesterday, at the pool store they had my CYA at 85. Last week they told me to add the BioGuard Stabilizer 100, which I learned after was cyanuric acid. That was about 9 days ago. After the concrete was all cleaned out of the pool they told me to add 2lbs of the Easy Shock and Swim, that was done on Saturday.
While they were building the pool, I had to fill it 5 times, due to leaks, hole in liner and a few other problems that they needed to fix. I really wanted to avoid draining it, even partially, . Would any of this things I just mentioned attribute to they high CYA or is there any other way of fixing that.
THANKS
 
CYA at 85 was already too high. Then they had you raise the CYA higher by adding BioGuard Stabilizer 100, which makes no sense. Then sold you Easy Shock and Swim, which is dichlor, which contains yet more CYA. I would stop listening to anything that store suggests. It is difficult to imagine worse advice.
 
Also if your CYA is truly 100 you are keeping your chlorine levels WAY TOO LOW!!! It should not fall below 8ppm at any time or you could risk a algae outbreak.. Also learn how to use your own test kit and dont take your water to the pool store for testing. TRUST YOUR OWN TESTING ONLY!! I was recently in your same shoes, stick with TFP and you will be just fine. Casey is right, Muratic Acid lowers my PH just fine if not better at a fraction of the cost!! Another tip, read POOL SCHOOL!!! Unfortunately a partial drain is the best option at this point, you will go through a ton of bleach at those levels not to mention if you have to SLAM. Good luck and welcome to the most reliable pool advise forum I have found. LOVE THESE PEOPLE!!:lovetfp:
BTW You can use the pool calculater to see where you need to keep your chlorine level with CYA of 100. Its a great calculater I use it all the time. (Can anyone help with posting the link, I have not done that yet)
 
They told me a range of CYA between 85-200 is the recommended range. That is why when I read here that it should be considerably lower, I got MAD. They also said to maintain a Chlorine level between 1.5-3.
SO....the best thing to do is swap out 50% of the water??? (the wife will not be happy)
 
Now I am angry, that is EXACTLY what they told me and its bunk!! CYA between 30 an 50 is where you want to be. (This to me is one of the most important levels to keep under control.) Any shock that says trichlor or dichlor just adds more CYA!! Dont do it unless you are trying to raise your CYA level. The pucks that they tell you to put in your pool to chlorinate also will raise CYA. (I LOVE BLEACH) Do your homework on this site starting with pool school, you will understand it in no time, again, I cannot stress enough for you to trust your own testing, if you are unsure just post your concerns and SOMEONE will help you on the site. I just could not believe that the very company that built my pool was giving me advise that was just costing me a ton of money, BUT TRUE.
 
Unfortunately, if your Taylor is Not getting above 100, your CYA could be anything. Mine was not to be seen for weeks after I got my K-2006 test kit. Mostly because I was too new to testing myself and Leslies was telling my it was 40; when I finally did a dilution test 3 X diluted and found it to be over 340. To figure out how much to drain, if your target is 50ppm, Drain 50% refill, then test again. If its still over 100 drain and fill again. ETC, ETC, ETC. I only drained 1/3 of mine at a time to keep 1ft in the shallow end. I ended up draining and refilling 40,000 gallons to get my cya to 50. Big water bill!!!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Best advise I have is that if you have to do a drain make it good the first time so you dont have to struggle with high CYA levels when its all said and done. I went thru the EXACT same thing and said to myself HOW COULD THEY HAVE HAD ME ADD ALL THAT STABLIZER!! Its a bad way to start but I honestly think your ahead of the game just by ditching the pool store, took me 2 years and LOTS of money. Example, they told me I had phosfates (freaked me out too) cost me almost $1000 and didnt fix my chlorine loss issue.. GUESS WHAT, with the help of people on this forum they helped me figure out I had algae behind my light in the pool HAHAHA!! Just one of many examples. Remain calm, you will be enjoying your new pool in no time!! In the meantime keep a close eye on your chlorine levels!!! Dont let them fall too low, you dont want to add another problem.
 
You can go as far down as leaving a ft of water in the shallow end. Do not drain further than that!

Read Pool School and get comfortable with the TFPC. You will not regret making the switch from the pool store to TFP! We're here to help you. Any questions, just ask! All we ask is that you do your part in reading and understanding Pool School so you can take charge of your pool. If you need refills on your regents, get them at TFtestkits.net. :goodjob:
 
A classic example of Pool-stored.

You're one of the lucky ones; you got off the merry-go-round early, and your water isn't a green cloudy mess. In fact, you're super lucky, because most victims miss most of the swim season fighting with their chemistry, and you'rte on top of things before Memorial Day!

Does your local store use of of these to determine what you need next?
attachment.php
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply