Want to deep clean sand filter but don't know how to disconnect pipes

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S

Shelley

0
May 9, 2014
9
Oklahoma City, OK
This is my first post, though I've been reading and learning from this forum for years. I feel like this is a pretty stupid problem, but the closest thing to "plumbing" I've ever done is install a new kitchen faucet, so I'm really afraid to start hacking at pvc.

After reading here, I've determined my sand filter needs attention. Water shoots out the pump skimmer every time I turn off the pump, which does not happen when I switch to recirculate, and the pressure stays pretty high at 24. And, of course, I can't get the **** water cleared of algae. So I think there's a problem with the filter. Sand itself is only a few years old. I'm vaguely handy and I think I could manage to do the deep cleaning without too much trouble, but I don't know the best way to get to the sand. When I release the tension screws holding the valve assembly to the top of the filter, the piping is going to keep me from moving the assembly out of my way. What I want to do is take off the top and leave the filter where it is, but the only way to do that is to remove the pipes (obviously). That seems like the wrong choice. But the other option is moving the filter out from under the piping. Will I be able to do that? It seems way too heavy. Should two healthy adults be able to do it? Is that what people generally do?

(Trying to post a photo but uploading won't work for me and you probably don't need it anyway.)

Thanks!

poolfilter2.jpg
 
Welcome to TFP!

Moving the filter is impractical, it weighs hundreds of pounds.

The only practical approach involves cutting each of the pipes and adding unions, so you can disconnect the unions and remove the multi-port valve from the top. PVC plumbing isn't too difficult, but now might not be the best moment to learn how to do it :)

If you post a full set of water test results, we can give you some advice about clearing up the algae without cleaning the filter.
 
Sigh. I was afraid of that. I took water to Leslie's last week and they said the chemistry was fine (which my strip tests showed as well) though I'm having trouble keeping chlorine level up. I'll take more water in today. They sold me their Pool First Aid in case the cloudiness is actually suspended dead algae, and I admit I have had luck with that stuff in the past, but it's not working this time. Thanks very much for the reply! I think I may have gotten a photo to upload this time...

poolfilter2_mini.jpg
 
So you would just need to cut a short section out of the 2 pipes running to the left (looks like plenty of room either on the horizontal or vertical pipes) and install union fittings.
 
Get the unions and measure the width of pipe that would need to be removed.
Cut out that width of pipe.
Put primer on the pipe and fitting.
Put solvent on the pipe and fitting.
Slide the fitting on with a twist and hold for a few seconds.
Repeat for the other half of the union.

NOTE!!!! Do NOT forget to put the screw nut portion over the pipe BEFORE you glue on that half of the fitting. I think everyone that has ever used unions has forgotten to do this and then had to improvise.

Luckily you have a lot of exposed pipe which will be pretty flexible, so likely nothing has to be that exact.
 
I agree with supercanadian, your description doesn't sound like a filter issue. Setting things up so you can properly service the filter is a great idea, I just don't think that it is central to solving your current issue.
 

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Hi, welcome to TFP! Could you post the test results from the pool store? That will give us a ballpark idea what is going on until you are able to get a good quality test kit such as a Taylor K2006 or a TF 100 and test it yourself.

+1 on adding the unions. I recently installed a sand filter and cut all the pvc with a hacksaw and added unions. If you have a saws-all lying around it makes short work of the pvc, just be sure and drain all the lines first!
 
Thank you for all this help--I'm very appreciative!

I put more shock in a couple of hours ago (been running on recirculate since yesterday) so chemistry will be skewed for a bit. I have been having trouble keeping chlorine level up. This happened last year when I opened the pool too. Sigh.

The main reason I'm thinking something is wrong with the filter is the surge back I get when I shut off the pump. Water shoots hard out of the pump basket. O-ring is fine. Doesn't this suggest that something is clogged up on the filter side?
 
Water shooting back comes from air in the filter. Top mount filters purge air automatically, though slowly, so that suggests air is constantly getting into the filter. That suggests a suction side leak allowing air to be drawn into the plumbing.
 
My old pump used to shoot water out of the pump lid as well ... no air leak and no air in the filter.

From the sound of things, chemistry is your problem. You need a good test kit and to SLAM the pool. After doing that, if the pool is still not clearing, then you can deal with the filter.
 
Welcome to TFP
^^ what others have said. It really sounds like water chemistry is your problem and not your filter. You said sand was only a few years old? Can you post those test results? Would you consider taking control of the testing yourself and not buying a lot of stuff that you may not even need from the pool store? If so than you came to the right place :D. Welcome
 
Just want to second JL that the cause of leaking/spraying water on shutdown is because of air collecting in your filter (it shouldn't be doing that). To prove that's the case, bleed the air from the filter right before you shut it off. If you don't get any leaking/spraying water, you've proven the air was the problem. The pressure wave that shows up as leaking/spraying can damage things over time so you'll want to address that problem before it causes a permanent leak somewhere.
 
Welp, I went to try gtemkin's test, kicked over the auto chlorinator, and got a shot of water to the face when the line split apart. Perhaps the air was coming from a cracked chlorinator hose? (I did manage to try opening the release valve before turning off the pump and water came out instead of air, and the water still shot from the pump lid like always. I'm getting tired...) Off to Leslie's to get chem numbers, a new line, and a test kit.
 
I like the feeder. Usually it keeps the chlorine level stable so I don't have to use shock.

Vinyl lined pool, 16x32 rectangle. Here's what the Leslie's test shows:
FAC 5
Ph 7.8
TA 130
CYA 50
Calcium hardness 250
Phosphates 200

They had to order my part, though, so I'm vulnerable now to being convinced I should ditch the feeder. Part won't come until Wednesday.
 
Wow that's surprising that after bleeding it still does it. Generally the build up of air would come from the suction (skimmer) side of the pump although I suppose air could back feed to the filter from an air leak at the chlorinator when the pump goes off. In any case you proved air in the filter isn't the cause.
 

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