First Test after Opening

[gobblerhuntr]

Put the pool in last year and let the PS close it and open it the other day. Before I could get a sample of the water the pool dude put some powder in the pool and a bottle of something to break down scaling he said. They said let the pool run for 48 hours and then go to regular schedule. I did that and tested the water yesterday at lunch:

FC 18
CC 0
TA 60
CH 210
CYA 55
PF 7.2
CH >5



The water was clear and perfect after they removed the solid cover as they said it would be but I really was not wanting them to put anything in my pool without me ok-ing it. I do not like the way the PS makes everything look like a secret and won't tell you anything. They told me to bring a sample in and let them test it in a few days, (like that is gonna happen). All they will do is try and sell me some expensive chemical that I prolly don't need.

One concern I had was the CH as it is suppose to have a yellow tint to it but this test was basically red. That is why I listed it as >5. Is it because of the high FC level that this test went as it did.

Any other recommendations of anything I need to do would be appreciated.

 

[Richard320]

Put the pool in last year and let the PS close it and open it the other day. Before I could get a sample of the water the pool dude put some powder in the pool and a bottle of something to break down scaling he said. They said let the pool run for 48 hours and then go to regular schedule. I did that and tested the water yesterday at lunch:

FC 18
CC 0
TA 60
CH 210
CYA 55
PF 7.2
CH >5



The water was clear and perfect after they removed the solid cover as they said it would be but I really was not wanting them to put anything in my pool without me ok-ing it. I do not like the way the PS makes everything look like a secret and won't tell you anything. They told me to bring a sample in and let them test it in a few days, (like that is gonna happen). All they will do is try and sell me some expensive chemical that I prolly don't need.

One concern I had was the CH as it is suppose to have a yellow tint to it but this test was basically red. That is why I listed it as >5. Is it because of the high FC level that this test went as it did.

Any other recommendations of anything I need to do would be appreciated.

Can you clarify what those last two readings are supposed to be?

 

[duraleigh]

Your numbers look very good.

One concern I had was the CH as it is suppose to have a yellow tint to it but this test was basically red. That is why I listed it as >5. Is it because of the high FC level that this test went as it did.

It sounds like you are referring to the chlorine test wherein you put five drops or R-0600 in the comparator tube and match the colors. That's an OTO chlorine test and it will go towards orange - reddish-brownish when the FC is up like yours is. No worries.

 

[gobblerhuntr]

The next to last is PH, sorry. The last is the OTO chlorine test as duraleigh mentioned.

Will the FC come down on its on or do i need to do something?

Will the FC that high hurt anything?

Can you clarify what those last two readings are supposed to be?

 

[Richard320]

The FC will drop rather quickly once the sun hits the pool, especially if the SWG is off. Roughly half in one day is my guess. 18 FC is below shock level for your CYA, so no damage. It might fade swimsuits, but that's about all.

Your pH reading is somewhat suspect because the FC is so high. Recheck pH when the FC drops below 10. And it's normal for the TA test to go blue>yellow instead of green>pink when you have really high FC.

 

[gobblerhuntr]

We are getting a lot of rain over the next several days and not much sun so I guess my plan will be to watch the FC and when it drops below 10 get another test. At that point I will post test results.

That much FC in the water can't be good for the liner longevity can it?

 

[Richard320]

We are getting a lot of rain over the next several days and not much sun so I guess my plan will be to watch the FC and when it drops below 10 get another test. At that point I will post test results.

That much FC in the water can't be good for the liner longevity can it?

The CYA buffers it. If you had 18 FC and 0 CYA, it would likely bleach things. But you're well below shock level, and people have maintained higher levels for weeks with no apparent fading when they clear a swamp.

 

[gobblerhuntr]

Just read my bill from opening the pool and found out what they put in my pool, it was 7 lbs of dichlor and a 2bottles of super algae bomb 60. It appears that the dichlor increases cya? And the bomb is for algae control? Did I really want them to that or could I have done that by myself?

 

[Casey]

You certainly could have dumped it yourself but you didn't need that garbage added!

 

[Richard320]

Just read my bill from opening the pool and found out what they put in my pool, it was 7 lbs of dichlor and a 2bottles of super algae bomb 60. It appears that the dichlor increases cya? And the bomb is for algae control? Did I really want them to that or could I have done that by myself?

Yes, dichlor increases CYA. It probably went up 10 ppm. The other stuff sounds like poly 60 algaecide, which is better as a preventative than a cure.

 

[gobblerhuntr]

What should I do about it? anything at all or just get another test when the FC goes down?

 

[Richard320]

What should I do about it? anything at all or just get another test when the FC goes down?

The CYA that Dichlor adds will show up on the test within a day, so you've already tested it. Just go to maintenance mode now. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/131-basic-pool-care-schedule