From Yellow Algae to High Cyanuric Acid

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DeeDee

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Jun 11, 2013
28
Houston, TX
I have a 24,000 gal. plaster pool with cartridge filters in Houston, TX. My chlorinator got a kink in the line and I got yellow algae all over the sides and steps. I brushed and shocked with 4 lbs. The next day I went to the pool store to test it (I'm waiting for my test kit to arrive in the mail) and the FC/TC was at 4 & CA was 90 (I knew this was wrong because it's been at 100). The mgr. told me to put 3 lbs of shock, 2 packets of Jack's Magic algaecide, & brush/vac. Did it. The 3rd day they tested the FC/TA at 1, CA at or above 100, and phosphates at 1000 (everything else was fine). I was told to drain some of the water to get the CA down and retest (I can't backwash). I've drained down 1 foot of water (We're on a community well and I normally deal with calcium deposits and high phosphates in the pool). What is my next step? Do I shock to get the chlorine up quickly or turn up the chlorinator or...?
To lower the phosphates they recommended PhosFree Commercial strength. Any thoughts?
 
Hi DeeDee! Welcome to TFP!

So we're dealing with pool test results which are kinds suspect. You CYA may be a little higher than what it is because the test usually only go to 100. Best advice I can give is to get the TF100 and do a few 1ft drain/refills and retest your CYA and then we can start testing and SLAM'ing the pool. It's also beneficial for you, as a pool owner to learn everything you can about your pool and you can start to do that in Pool School. Button at the top right of every page. :goodjob: We can certainly help you but you have to do the home work of studying Pool School. If you don't it'll all be a blur and your pool won't change a bit. We don't make house calls. :mrgreen:

Stay away from the pool stores and their snake oils. Phosphates are not an issue. Your issue is high CYA and low chlorine. Once we address it, your chlorine will take care of everything. Are you ready to get started? :mrgreen:
 
The test kit is in the mail & I read-up on Pool School. I drained another foot of water (2ft.in all) and since I have to rely on the pool store & my "basic" kit at the moment, here are the levels...FC/TC-0.5 CH-180 CYA-90 TA-120 pH-8.2. Algae is starting to come back. Since I don't have a test kit to start slaming, should I add acid for the pH and drain again to bring down the CYA and ignore the algae...or shock the algae until I can slam.
 
I would do another partial drain and refill until your test kit comes in. You should be getting it soon right? Check your tracking... you got the TF100? Your CYA is still to high and we'll rein in the pH when you're done with the drain/refill okay? :)
 
Howdy deedee. Keep in mind that the powdered shock is going to add either cya or calcium to you pool. Stick with the liquid stuff. Pool math will tell you how much to put in to target your slam level. Problem is without a good test kit you are flying blind.

What part of town are you in. I may have some spare reagents I can loan you.
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

Your pool is already a mess ... CYA too high and algae starting. Waiting a few days is not going to hurt anything.
You should be focusing on replacing water for now to lower the CYA ... and if it will make you feel better, add a bottle of bleach to the pool everyday (although it is kind of a waste of money).

And while you are waiting keep reading Pool School.
 

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I drained & refilled (using well water) 3 ft. more, and borrowed a Taylor test kit until mine arrives. Here are the levels...FC/TC-0, CH 140, CYA-50!!, TA-160, pH-7.5
I bought some bleach (8.25%), and I assume that I should go to PoolMath to find out how much bleach to put in. However, I'm going to wait for an expert to give me some direction since I'm new to all this.

I'm also seeing a little bit of green algae on the plaster.
 
Since you're down to 50ppm CYA you're SLAM level is going to be 20ppm.

May I suggest you wait until your test kit comes in and you have it in your hands before you start to SLAM. If I were you, I'd bring the pH down to 7.2 with MA and using Pool Calculator Instructions. That will give you something to do to curb your enthusiasm to start. You will do so much better with your kit and your pH on the low side to start your SLAM. Also, tomorrow, BRUSH your pool to get it ready! :goodjob:
 
I'd leave it in there and run it! Mine (280) does a good job brushing. Only ever take it out for a party etc. Had to rebuild it this year (after 8yrs) It's spent almost it's whole life in the pool :)
 
You don't need it to start, but you can't accurately check your FC levels. You can try dilution method with your kit... use 1 part pool water to 3 parts distilled water and multiply by 4, that's your estimated level, some accuracy is lost. Add the acid first.
 
Help! I have really messed up! I decided to use the distilled water testing method this morning so I could get started before houseguests arrive this weekend. However, when I did it I forgot to multiply by 4!!... so I put waaaaaaaayyy too much bleach into the water!!! Is there something I should do now to lower the chlorine (turn off the pump, "try" the distilled water method again(!), use sodium thiosulfate, etc.) or just wait until I receive my test kit on Wednesday?
The water has been clear, never cloudy. There was just a little green algae in corners, but it's gone now. The chlorinator is off and empty.
 
I received my kit and here are my levels...
FC 10.5!
pH 7.5
TA 130 I wasn't sure if "dark pink" counts for "red" on this one.
CH 250
CYA 20 I did this one twice. Is the black dot suppose to be "completely" gone (no shadowy image)?
Water is clear with no visible algae.
Because I've messed up the chlorine, I am really not sure what to do at this point. What do you suggest?
 
Yes the dot should be completely gone ... and the test should be done outside with bright indirect light with the tube at your waist.

Your FC is not messed up, it is just at SLAM level.
If you have no reason to think you need to continue to SLAM, then let the FC drift down and raise your CYA up to the 30-50ppm range.

All the tests are done until the last drop does not cause a color change, then that drop does not count. So dark pink was likely the stopping point for the TA.
 

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