Water Balanced/No Chlorine producing from the SWG

Apr 7, 2014
14
Florida
Hello we are new to this and trying to figure what our problem is..
We took a sample water to the pool store: She told us other than not having chlorine everything else was fine. We just had C60 Pentair SWG put on in place of the C40 (this was replaced because it was not making salt) We also have the white flakes and the pool looks ok but I think could be better. Any help would be appreciated...Thank you in advance
FC 0
Salt 3900
CH 260
CYA 99
ph 7.4
TA 110
Copper 0
Iron 0
Phosphates o
 
CYA at 99 is a serious problem. You don't want CYA above 80. Worse, most of the common CYA tests will report anything over 100 and something right around 100, so your actual CYA level might be much higher. Of course it is also possible that the CYA test is just plain wrong, but high CYA fits with your other comments.

It would also be a huge help if you had your own top quality test kit. It is far simpler to make progress when you have reliable test results available right when you need them.

Finally, you shouldn't expect the SWG to raise FC from zero all by it's self. You should get everything balanced and working smoothly and then have the SWG take over. At this point that probably means replacing water to get CYA down and then SLAMing the pool, but it might be best to wait until you have your own test kit to confirm the CYA number before doing that.

Meanwhile, I recommend doing some reading in Pool School in your spare time.
 
Welcome! :wave:

Odds are, if there's no lights on, the SWG is working. If you had your own test kit, it would be super simple to just stick a cup down at the return jet and get some water straight from the SWG and test it then and there.

What is probably happening, and I say this because it's hugely common, is that the chlorine level was kept too low for the CYA level for too long and now there's something growing in the pool. The SWG is probably just keeping things in a stalemate. The water might not even be cloudy yet, but a couple days of hot weather and BOOM, you're green.

Another thing I've noticed is that pool stores use 99 for CYA as a sort of code that means "off the scale". They do the same with CH; you'll see 300+ listed there. That being said, I wouldn't trust the pool store readings. You could be just fine and they messed up the test. The only way to be sure is to test it yourself.

If you're willing to learn the basics and invest in your own test kit, we can get that pool sparkling like you've never seen it sparkle.

yodapoolschool.jpg
 
UPDATE: We have talked with our pool builder and they suggested turning our pump up higher and running it for longer. We run it for 9 hours so we bumped it up to 12 and turned the SWG to 80. We also started out with Chlorine at 4.... The water is very clear around 85..Im still waiting on my test kit to arrive. Builder doesn't seem to know what is going on but tells us not to lower the stabilizer below 80...said we are ok at 100? I am very puzzled as our info says 30-60....:(
today we are at
Chlorine 2
PH 7.4
TA 100
Stabilizer 100
CH 320
Salt 3600
 
For a SWG pool, we recommend a CYA 70-80ppm. A little higher is fine as it will let the SWG not work as hard due to FC losses to the sun ... BUT ... if a problem develops that requires the SLAM process, then the high CYA becomes a bit of a problem because the required FC levels are very high.

Don't be surprised when you encounter people in the pool industry who do not understand the CYA/FC relationship ... very common unfortunately.

We will know more when your kit arrives.
 
As I mentioned earlier, your CYA/Stabilizer level is too high. You need to replace water to get CYA down to around 80 (at the highest).

You almost certainly have a low level algae problem, which you are never going to be able to get on top of until you lower the CYA level.

There is no telling how high your CYA level is currently, as all of the common tests will report levels over 100 as 100. So your CYA level might be 100 or it could just as well be 300.
 
The InteliChlor IC60 Generator is rated to output 2.0 pounds of chlorine in 24 hours. This is 0.657 ppm FC per hour in 15,200 gallons. 9 hours would be 5.9 ppm FC while 12 hours would be 7.9 ppm FC. So these are extraordinarily high levels. As nearly all responses have indicated, it's going to be harder to SLAM your pool to kill off whatever is growing (likely algae, possibly biofilms) if your CYA level is high.

Since you have white flakes, it sounds like you are getting calcium carbonate scaling in the cell and that will prevent it from producing full output. Your pH, TA and CH numbers are not extraordinarily high so I suspect those numbers are not correct. Getting your own test kit, the TFTestkits TF-100 (or the Taylor K-2006) will tell you the truth of what is going on.

You also seem to have posted the same question in this thread on another forum.
 
chem geek...sorry about the other thread ..thought it was this one...now have it bookmarked.
We are still not able to hold the chlorine ...here are the readings we did today...we ordered the Taylor K-2006
FC 1
PH 7.4
TA 100....we did put MA of 16 ounces in had not rechecked
CYA 70...this was just when the black dot disappeared
CH 350....we also have the white flakes but not as many now
Salt 3600
Water Temp 85
SGW on 60%
Our builder said the next step would be to have the InteliChlor company out to check water....
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Ok I received my test kit Taylor 2006 here are my readings
CL 1
TC 1
CC 0
PH 7.2
TA 90
CH 375
CYA 80.. this a hard test...took outside back to sunlight and got 50 both times...then took it inside back with sun coming thru and it was 80 twice
WT 84
 
PH, TA, and CH are fine.

CYA we need to narrow down a little. The CYA test is designed to be read outdoors standing in direct sunlight, but with the test vial shaded by your body. Based on your description it sounds like that means CYA is 50.

I suggest you do an overnight FC loss test. If you pass then CYA needs to be raised to around 80. If you fail you need to SLAM the pool.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.