My 2 year old Polaris 3900 is doing a great job cleaning the deep end of my pool, but doesn't make it back to the shallow end. My two minute symptom check showed the wheels all turning freely and the jet pointing to approximately 7 o'clock. Any guidance on what's going on and how to remedy this? Thanks
Polaris 3900 stuck in deep end.
- Thread starter jjjedlic
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!!Sorry I have no experience with these, but hopefully someone will be able to help.
Here's the deal. The drive chain came off. I put it back on and it worked fine for a few hours then came off again. I talked to the maintenance guy at the pool store and he suggested I buy a chain guard made for this cleaner. I bought it. It cost $10 and he even put it on for me. That did it. Has worked for several days non-stop.
Also had a wobbly wheel that he wanted to replace, but I am ordering that on line for 33% of what the pool store wanted for it.
Good luck!
Also had a wobbly wheel that he wanted to replace, but I am ordering that on line for 33% of what the pool store wanted for it.
Good luck!
My Chemistry is a challenge and its wearing me out. The problem is my Jandy SW Chlorine Generator. I have replaced the cell. I have replaced the sensor and added a small computer board to the sensor connector as well. Unfortunately my salt level indicator says I have too much salt so the cell won't generate chlorine. I don't have too much salt, but the sensor won't calibrate. So I am adding chlorine myself to maintain good chlorine levels until I figure the darn thing out. Any help or thoughts?
What does an independent salt test say your level is?
It is not uncommon for the cell to start to go bad and read lower salt levels than reality, so an owner adds more salt to make the SWG happy. Eventually the cell completely dies, so they buy a new one and then it tells them that the salt level is too high, because it is. So they have to dump water to lower the salt level.
Good to hear that you are adding the chlorine manually while figuring the SWG out though.
It is not uncommon for the cell to start to go bad and read lower salt levels than reality, so an owner adds more salt to make the SWG happy. Eventually the cell completely dies, so they buy a new one and then it tells them that the salt level is too high, because it is. So they have to dump water to lower the salt level.
Good to hear that you are adding the chlorine manually while figuring the SWG out though.
Definitely not too much salt. Took it to the pool store to test just in case. It has something to do with either the sensor or a computer board I'm sure, but I don't have a good method for testing without swapping out expensive parts. None of the pool professionals in the area seem to know much about it either except to swap out parts (quite disappointing). Jandy technical services really don't like talking to owners instead of technicians.....I guess because we take a lot more time? Anyway, I am more and more frustrated with what I thought was going to be a simple issue to correct.
You might try just lowering the salt and seeing if it works. All that matters is that the system thinks there is the proper amount of salt.
Thanks for the tip. Would be a good one except the system thinks I have 14,200 when level should be around 3300 ish. Just crazy out of whack. And now it looks like it may not even be recognizing on my PDA that the salt cell even exists. Need to drop back and punt and start over again. UGGGHHH.
This pool I manage.........I feel your pain regarding the Jandy SWG. I have the same setup with a PDA controller and an Aquapure SWG. I have had a bunch of problems and agree that Jandy tech support does not want to talk to you unless you are a pool tech. I ended up buying the new black epoxy tri-sensor that comes with the small circuit board that gets installed inside the control panel. It appears that Jandy has a known issue with these sensors but is not willing to help you solve the problem. I got it working correctly last season and was surprised that it still worked when I opened the pool a couple of weeks ago. It's just a matter of time before something else goes wrong with the SWG or the control system.
I bought a new cell and a new sensor (the sensor didn't come with the circuit board). I installed both...easy right? Nope. That's when the 14,200 reading started. I finally got someone at Jandy to spend some time with me and she insisted I needed the circuit board and that would solve my problem probably. So I bought the circuit board and not only did it not solve the problem......the salt cell now doesn't even show up on the PDA. I have flow in the box and on the sensor, but nothing on the PDA and the salt level on the display inside the box shows 14,200 and I am 100% sure I don't have a high salt level....if anything it may be low.
So did you have any tricks to getting yours running. I probably need a new front board (or heck maybe back board or who knows maybe both), but they are expensive and I don't want to guess again an swap out another high dollar part hoping for the best.
So did you have any tricks to getting yours running. I probably need a new front board (or heck maybe back board or who knows maybe both), but they are expensive and I don't want to guess again an swap out another high dollar part hoping for the best.
Check http://www.pleasurepoolsno.com/wp-content/themes/pleasurepool_latest/pdf/AquaPure%20and%20PureLink%20Troubleshooting%20Manual.pdf for a troubleshooting manual. Last year I bought a new Zodiac Jandy AquaPure PCB Power Interface #R0467600 and a Zodiac Salt Flow/Temp/Salinity Sensor #R0452500 from Ebay sellers. The combination of these two items seemed to solve my problem. But, I have no confidence in Zodiac (Jandy) electronics. I think their equipment is unreliable and way overpriced.