pH over 45? Is that even possible?

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S

smhill

0
May 11, 2013
77
Arkansas
My pool is a green slimy mess again. I have removed the leaves, brushed the walls, vac'd to waste, and cleaned the cartridges. Now, I am ready to slam this thing. I tested my water using the Taylor TF-100 (kit purchased new last year.) My pH was too high to get a reading using the comparative chart, so I diluted the pool sample with tap water. I got a reading of 7.8 using 1 part pool water to 5 parts tap water. Could my pH be 46.8? Is that even possible without sustaining burns? My dog drinks out of that mess for pete's sake!

I have posted my results below.

Thanks!

FC 0
pH ?
TA 90
CH 210
CYA 0
 
No, because pH isn't a dissolved compound like CYA. Dilution doesn't affect it the same way. Your tap water has a pH probably somewhere in the 7's. But it's a logarithmic thing, so straight arithmetic won't solve it. Whatever pH reads undiluted, that's what it is. If it's pinkish red, it's high. If it's yellow-orange, it's low.
 
It is electric pink. I used 8.2 as my reading and added 31 oz of muriatic acid. I waited 20 minutes and tested again. I still had the electric pink color, so I added 16 oz more of muriatic acid. Again, I waited 20 minutes. Again, the color was electric pink.

How much do you suggest I add. I need to get that pH down so I can add the bleach. Also, do I need to start cya going in?
 
You're doing things perfect. Just test pH and TA and plug the numbers into pool math and one of these times, you will see the pH color shift. You will probably notice TA is dropping and so is the amount of acid it tells you to add.

CYA can be added any time. Use the sock method. You want to aim low, no higher than 30, to do the SLAM. You can raise it if you want once the SLAM is complete.
 
This is one of those rare times when the acid/base demand tests in the Taylor K-2006 would be useful to see how much acid is needed to be added to the pool to get to a certain pH. You can just add an amount of acid that would go from the highest level on the test (8.0 or 8.2 depending on your test kit) to 7.5. For your 16,800 gallon pool with a TA of 90 ppm, it takes around 4 cups of full-strength Muriatic Acid (31.45% Hydrochloric Acid) to lower the pH from 8.2 to 7.5. So your adding 32 ounces at a time is reasonable until you start to see the color drop. I suspect you are pretty close though. 48 ounces would go from 8.6 to 7.5 while 64 ounces would go from 8.9 to get to 7.5.
 
I have added more acid and started the cya using the sock method. I'll test again in about 20 minutes. I guess the bright side is that the bleach won't be burned off by the sun. There are only a few more hours of daylight here today. :)
 

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Yes, I did get the pH down, and started the SLAM process. I checked my chlorine level a few minutes ago using the FAS DPD method. It is 13.

I am hoping that the water continues to clear today. It currently looks like lake water (dingy brown), but that is an improvement over the thick pea soup that I did have! The pump is running 24 hours a day. I am cleaning filters and brushing. I vac'd Wednesday. It rained almost all day Thursday, and I was gone all day yesterday. I haven't yet vac'd today, but I plan to do so.

I sure would appreciate any additional advice. Thanks so much for all your help!
 
Just a note on the TA - TA lower than 50 can cause contribute to extreme fluctuation in PH - so if it goes much lower than where you're at, add a little baking soda - which shouldn't raise the PH much. Just keep an eye on it going forward...

oh and...
:nopic:
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
Just a note on the TA - TA lower than 50 can cause contribute to extreme fluctuation in PH - so if it goes much lower than where you're at, add a little baking soda - which shouldn't raise the PH much. Just keep an eye on it going forward...

oh and...
:nopic:
Click to expand...
I agree with the pictures, disagree on the TA. He's in the middle of the SLAM. One thing at a time. pH and TA are easy to fix once the pool is clear.
 
CYA was initially 0. I began adding cyanuric acid using the sock method. I haven't checked it because I thought it took about a week before you got a real reading, and I didn't think it was a part of the slam process. We git a ton of rain, and I have vac'd to waste so I wouldn't be surprised to discover that it is still at or close to 0.

I also haven't checked pH because I read it was unreliable during the slam. I haven't checked TA either because of the slam. I did just check my chlorine level again with the FAS DPD method. It is holding steady at 13.
 
Foam during a SLAM is not uncommon. Very often it is caused by algaecides that were added in the past. Don't worry about it, just get that water clear! And you are correct about ignoring everything but FC & CC during the SLAM and waiting to test CYA. You're learning quick! :goodjob:
 

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