New Pool Owner: Fighting Mustard Algae, CYA @ 100, Stains - Need Rx

[Pontiyak]

Ok so I've been lurking on the TFP for a few weeks and have been able to obtain a crash course in pools.

However I learned the folly of my ways (previous attempts at cleaning up my pool were futile).

See attached pictures.

So for a month or so I just thought my pool had a lot of pollen, but I have now been able to deduct that its an algae as it grows.
One of my first mistakes was crushing up 9 or so trichlor tabs and letting them dissolve into the pool. I now know that was a mistake as my CYA level is 100.

Right now I am draining the pool, will refill, and SLAM to solve mustard algae.

I would also like to address the stains, I am on well water, and combined with an automatic pool leveler that the bank (I bought a foreclosure) had that rusted apart, they are probably Iron.


So can I tackle the algae SLAMing and rust stain removal simultaneously? While the pool level is down (draining water to lower CYA) should I use muriatic acid or similar to tackle the stains?
Or do I fight the algae now, and hit the stains later, as a separate independent operation once my pool has recovered from the algae SLAMs.

Any help coming up with an order of operations, what to do when would be appreciated.

 

[Charlie_R]

Welcome to TFP!

I don't know much about stain removal, however we do have other experts here that can address that issue.

From what I understand of the process (not much!), the two operations (SLAM & Stains) are likely mutually exclusive.

 

[Smykowski]

Welcome!

How did you diagnose mustard algae? I ask because it seems to be one of the more misdiagnosed problems, and the SLAM required for it can be rough on the pool. Basically, if you never have to bring FC up to mustard levels, that would be good.

 

[Casey]

Welcome Pontiyak.

So, have you purchased a test kit yet? You're going to need the k2006 or the TF100 XL before you even get started on SLAM'ing.
A signature below your post with your pool specs is very helpful and encouraged.

We can move forward with more accurate advice if you have a reliable test kit that we make a game plan with. Without it, all we'll do is sit and float and guess at what we could do instead of what we will do. Get back to us!!!

 

[Pontiyak]

From what I understand of the process (not much!), the two operations (SLAM & Stains) are likely mutually exclusive.

Good to hear, I was planing on getting the algae first, going on vacation for a week (literally), and then returning to tackle stains

 

[Pontiyak]

Welcome!

How did you diagnose mustard algae? I ask because it seems to be one of the more misdiagnosed problems, and the SLAM required for it can be rough on the pool. Basically, if you never have to bring FC up to mustard levels, that would be good.

I read several pollen vs mustard algae threads on here, and after vacuuming to waste continuously (3-weeks, 3x per week, after pollen stopped falling), and having the problem return, i said it must be algae. I added coagulant to settle it before I would vacuum. Also the clumps on the bottom of the pool would build in 3 dimensions, and looked very familiar to what I deal with on a daily basis....

And for full disclosure I'll throw out there that I have a very intimate knowledge of algae, albeit in lakes/ponds/wetlands, as Lake & Wetland management is a career for me. They call me the "Pond Boss". I'm the guy in the boat who nukes your pond with CuSO4 and follows up with a diquat. Basically I'm like Chuck Norris of retention ponds. I've noticed copper algaecides aren't popular for pools I assume because its pretty corrosive.

 

[Pontiyak]

Welcome Pontiyak.

So, have you purchased a test kit yet? You're going to need the k2006 or the TF100 XL before you even get started on SLAM'ing.
A signature below your post with your pool specs is very helpful and encouraged.

We can move forward with more accurate advice if you have a reliable test kit that we make a game plan with. Without it, all we'll do is sit and float and guess at what we could do instead of what we will do. Get back to us!!!

Yeah I ordered a Taylor K-1004 before I knew it wasn't what I needed (FAS-DPD). I'm stuck with it now, so I can always calculate based on volume in a hypothetical perfect scenario until another paycheck or two.

I did add the pool specs to my sig, but other than knowing I have a Hayward DE filter, I'm unsure of the size, and its 18,000 gallons, what else is pertinent that I should take into consideration?


Also, I just drained half my pool.... so I'm all in now.

 

[Casey]

I would add that you've got a plaster pool.

You'll lose some accuracy with the dilution method and won't be able to track CC's or do an OCLT to see if you're done SLAM'ing the pool. That's really important.

 

[Beens]

I did a little googling... you can get the fas-dpd test by itself fyi
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003V4YZEO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1399097158&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Pretty sure it's available from tftestkits.net also.

What I noticed in my googling is the kit you have doesn’t test for cya either. Did you already have your own cya test or did you have someone else test it? I don't think I missed the testing method being mentioned here although I'll admit it's late and I'm browsing on my phone tonight.

 

[zea3]

Slam first, then tackle the stains. If you are going to slam at mustard algae levels at some point put all your pool toys, hoses, brushes, nets, in the pool so they can be sanitized.

 

[Smykowski]

And for full disclosure I'll throw out there that I have a very intimate knowledge of algae, albeit in lakes/ponds/wetlands, as Lake & Wetland management is a career for me. They call me the "Pond Boss". I'm the guy in the boat who nukes your pond with CuSO4 and follows up with a diquat. Basically I'm like Chuck Norris of retention ponds. I've noticed copper algaecides aren't popular for pools I assume because its pretty corrosive.

That sounds like a pretty good reason to me!

As for copper, less for corrosion, more for staining.

 

[Pontiyak]

What I noticed in my googling is the kit you have doesn't test for cya either. Did you already have your own cya test or did you have someone else test it? I don't think I missed the testing method being mentioned here although I'll admit it's late and I'm browsing on my phone tonight.

Pool store tested the CYA. I'm thinking their test might only be calibrated to 100 though. I have my test results from September and the level was at 100 then (that was before I added 9 trichlor pucks as a way to chlorinate). The test they did for me last week was still at 100

 

[chem geek]

If it's yellow/mustard algae then it will be dust-like, yellow-to-mustard in color (not green), and will generally only be on the shady side of the pool. If you try to scoop some up, it will tend to poof and disperse. Most green algae tends to clump more and doesn't mind the sun so can grow anywhere.

 

[Pontiyak]

If it's yellow/mustard algae then it will be dust-like, yellow-to-mustard in color (not green), and will generally only be on the shady side of the pool. If you try to scoop some up, it will tend to poof and disperse. Most green algae tends to clump more and doesn't mind the sun so can grow anywhere.

You described it exactly.


OK, so I'm about done refilling the pool, and its turned to seafoam green color, and little mustard algae clumps have started back again. I just set the pool pump to filter, and will stop by the pool store to test CYA when I run errands in a bit.

Tested it with my Taylor "Residential Trouble-Shooter" kit:

TC 3
FC 2
CC 1
Alk 50
Ph 7.2

 

[Casey]

You're going to need the FAS DPD test to get through the SLAM. You also need to eat your Wheaties and BRUSH the pool daily!

 

[Charlie_R]

Check with Dave at TFtestkits.net.He would probably sell you the components to complete your kit to the standards we use here.

- - - Updated - - -

As far as I know, no CYA test goes over 100. so yours could be as high 200 or 300, and you wouldn't know it with pool store testing. They won't dilute the sample with more pool water to find the true value of CYA in your pool.

 

[Pontiyak]

Check with Dave at TFtestkits.net.He would probably sell you the components to complete your kit to the standards we use here.

- - - Updated - - -

As far as I know, no CYA test goes over 100. so yours could be as high 200 or 300, and you wouldn't know it with pool store testing. They won't dilute the sample with more pool water to find the true value of CYA in your pool.

Good point, I'll pre-dilute my sample before I take it. If I go 50/50 with bottled water, would that work?

 

[Charlie_R]

Bottled water, tap water, distilled water, they'll all work.

 

[Beens]

*but* pool store CYA testing is notorious for being inaccurate. From what I've read here, it's the test they are the worst at. You'd really be better off testing it yourself.

 

[Pontiyak]

*but* pool store CYA testing is notorious for being inaccurate. From what I've read here, it's the test they are the worst at. You'd really be better off testing it yourself.

Went to another pool store, because I was skeptical of the first one. New pool store tested CYA @ 45, which sounds in line with original test + all the water I drained. Used pool math and calculated I needed 6 gal of 8.25% "Great Value" (WalMart) Bleach. Put it in as the sun was going down, and followed up an hour later with another gal.

In lieu of FAS/DPD test, I'll just base my treatments on PoolMath and common sense. Here's hoping.



Also, if I were spraying herbicides, I like to mix chemicals to combine modes of action/efficacy's and prevent resistance...... does the same logic apply to the pool: Should I inter-mix powdered shock and liquid bleach? i.e. shock with powder tomorrow, liquid bleach the next time?