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Thread: light removal

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    light removal

    Trying to slam my pool and I know there is **** behind my light. However, the previous owner stripped the screw trying to get it out. Short of draining the pool so I can use a drill on the screw anyone got an idea how to get the screw out?

    I know there is stuff behind it because I took the vacuum off the hose and used the pressure of the hose to force water behind the light and algae and other **** came out from behind the light.
    15,000 gallon plaster pool with spa and water fall, 250 Pentair MiniMax Plus Heater
    Nautilus FNS FIberglass D.E. Filter 48 Sq ft, Leslie's DPD Complete Chlorine Kit + TFTestkits Chlorine & CCs Kit.
    Oak trees overhanging most of pool

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: light removal

    Hacksaw to make a slot and then a standard screwdriver?
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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  3. Back To Top    #3

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    Re: light removal

    Thought about that but it is a countersunk screw and there is no way to us a hacksaw without messing up the light cover.
    15,000 gallon plaster pool with spa and water fall, 250 Pentair MiniMax Plus Heater
    Nautilus FNS FIberglass D.E. Filter 48 Sq ft, Leslie's DPD Complete Chlorine Kit + TFTestkits Chlorine & CCs Kit.
    Oak trees overhanging most of pool

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: light removal

    Bummer. It should never have been tight enough to get stripped in the first place. Can't think of anything right now.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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    Smykowski's Avatar
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    Re: light removal

    It's funny, first thought I had was "Dremel a slot, then use a flathead."

    The second thought I had was, "You're an idiot. You're about to answer questions on a pool forum."

    Then I trolled the interwebs a bit for ideas. Not sure how far underwater it is and how much leverage you can get, but you can maybe try using a punch to give yourself a surface, then either a punch or a screwdriver to get the rotation going a millimeter at a time.

    Another idea would be an extractor kit with one of those old school manual drills.

    I don't know enough about air tools, but one idea was to use an air driven drill underwater. I'm not sure how much disassembly and drying would be required afterward to keep the tool from being destroyed though.
    33' round, 23,000 gal AG vinyl , 1HP 2spd PowerFlo Matrix downsized with 3/4HP impeller (X2), Hayward S180T 150# sand filter (X2), Hayward H250 NG heater Pool Store year 1 - $850 for 2 months; Pool Store year 2 - $440 for 2 months, TFPC year 1 - $170 for 4 months; TFPC year 2 - $95 for 4.5 months
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    Re: light removal

    I like the air drill idea. I have dumped about $50 of bleach in the pool over the last 3 days so a cheap air drill from Northern or Harbor Freight may be the ticket. If it will run under water.
    15,000 gallon plaster pool with spa and water fall, 250 Pentair MiniMax Plus Heater
    Nautilus FNS FIberglass D.E. Filter 48 Sq ft, Leslie's DPD Complete Chlorine Kit + TFTestkits Chlorine & CCs Kit.
    Oak trees overhanging most of pool

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    Re: light removal

    Harbor Freight 3/8" reversible air drill for 17 bucks.
    15,000 gallon plaster pool with spa and water fall, 250 Pentair MiniMax Plus Heater
    Nautilus FNS FIberglass D.E. Filter 48 Sq ft, Leslie's DPD Complete Chlorine Kit + TFTestkits Chlorine & CCs Kit.
    Oak trees overhanging most of pool

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    Divin Dave's Avatar
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    Re: light removal

    if the air drill dont work....
    A screwdriver and hammer. Press hard into the screw with the screwdriver and tap it with a hammer and twist all at the same time. The screw is probably brass and its soft. Keep pushing tapping and twisting until the screw is out far enough to grab the head with a pair of pliers.

    Another option. YOu might be able to use a small tip phillips screwdriver or a thin sharp punch or a nail and hammer and tap a small hole in the screw. Then use a small easy out and hopefully it will be able to grab. Then a small crescent wrench to turn the easy out.

    In any case, it;s just gonna be a pain to get it out, but it can be done.
    Divin Dave,
    IG Vinyl, 15' x 30', 3 1/2' - 6' deep, Oval, ~15K gal, Intelliclor IC40, Intelliflo VS pump, Clean and Clear 420 Filter, auto-fill-disabled, Retrofit LED Color Light, Dolphin Nautilus Robot, TF100 Test Kit, Taylor K1766 Salt Test Kit, Tftestkit Pressure Gauge.
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    Smykowski's Avatar
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    Re: light removal

    If you go this route, see if you can troll a couple of scuba diving forums for tips before you do it, then post back and let us know how it went.
    33' round, 23,000 gal AG vinyl , 1HP 2spd PowerFlo Matrix downsized with 3/4HP impeller (X2), Hayward S180T 150# sand filter (X2), Hayward H250 NG heater Pool Store year 1 - $850 for 2 months; Pool Store year 2 - $440 for 2 months, TFPC year 1 - $170 for 4 months; TFPC year 2 - $95 for 4.5 months
    The most important article on this site - The ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

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    Re: light removal

    try one of these. had good luck with them out of water...

    http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
    18x36 Inground 22000 gal Vinyl Lined sport pool \ P Pentair Intelliflo VS pump, Sta-rite 400SQ FT Cartridge filter, Pentair MasterTemp 250K HD Heater, Pentair SunTouch Control System, Pentair IC40 SWG, 2 Pentair Intellibrite 5G Lights, Pentair Intellibrite lite Controller, Pentair Kreepy Krauly 820 robot.

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    Re: light removal

    The risk of using any type of force on the screw is that the screw goes into a fairly weak threaded tab, which would likely break off if any appreciable force were used.

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    Re: light removal

    Okay. Well good and bad news. For those of you who wonder if a pneumatic drill will work under water, yes it will work just like out of water. More good news, the light is out and the tab did not break off. Bad news for me, there was not one stitch of algae behind the light. Now I have to figure out what is consuming my chlorine.

    Ended up using an easy out tool on the drill and it eventually twisted the head off the screw. Took vice grips to get the leftover out. Even then it was very hard to get out.

    Advice. A variable speed drill might have been better. Put the drill in the water and fire it off to see where the air is going to come out. Then when you drill make sure that part of the drill is pointed away from your face.

    Question for new screw. One light had a stainless steal screw and one had a brass screw. The stainless screw came out a lot easier. I am replacing both screws should I use stainless or brass?
    15,000 gallon plaster pool with spa and water fall, 250 Pentair MiniMax Plus Heater
    Nautilus FNS FIberglass D.E. Filter 48 Sq ft, Leslie's DPD Complete Chlorine Kit + TFTestkits Chlorine & CCs Kit.
    Oak trees overhanging most of pool

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    Re: light removal

    I would use stainless.

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    Mod Squad JVTrain's Avatar
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    Re: light removal

    Put the drill in the water and fire it off to see where the air is going to come out. Then when you drill make sure that part of the drill is pointed away from your face.
    Haha. That sounds like something that would happen to me!


    Joel - TFP Moderator - Minnesota - **Become a TFP Supporter!** Helpful Links: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - SLAM Procedure - Chlorine/CYA Chart
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    Mod Squad zea3's Avatar
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    Re: light removal

    It is best to use stainless steel screws in the pool for underwater applications. You may have flushed the debris out the other day, so it is still a good thing to get some slam level water back there to kill off any residual algae.
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