Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: Jandy i-aqualink

  1. Back To Top    #1
    Azmp1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    280

    Jandy i-aqualink

    I got the I-aqualink installed this week and I thought i'd post up some thoughts on the product as well some DYI tips. Please pay in mind that these are my thoughts and assumptions, made by doing my own research and of my current understanding of this product, i'm neither an iqualink vendor, or a pool professional, but just a regular pool owner.

    First I'd like to say, that iaqualink does EXACTLY what's advertised, which is giving you an ability to remotely manage your pool/spa as long as you have access to the internet and it does it very well.
    I have the app installed on both the iPhone and ipad, as well as testing it through PC (no app needed, its done directly on iqualink.com), and all work very well. On the iPhone/iPad besides the iPhone type interface with toggles, you also have web option which actually gives you a full representation of the Aqualink touch panel, which is fully functional. I believe there's also an android version. So to sum up, the functionality level is very good, and you can pretty much do everything as if you're sitting at home in front of your touch or one touch controller. All that will be great once you get pass all your install hurtles that are mainly reside on your wifi side of the setup.

    So here we go.

    The model I purchased is the IQ-900. This model comes with the Jbox antenna, and the new cache board that you will need to swap out if the revision on your board is lower then the one that came with iqualink (mine was R and the one included in the package was T).
    Now, VERY IMPORTANT, IQ-900 may not work for you depending on your aqualink power center system and the revision your running. If you have PowerCenter RS with the revision of N or newer then IQ-900 will work for you, if however, you have an older system with the older 50 pin board and older revision or non RS system without the 50 pin board, you will need to purchase IQ-900RS. This model, aside from whats included with the IQ-900 will also come with the new 50 pin board. Before doing any purchasing I would strongly recommend you check with either your pool guy or Zodiac support to make sure which model/version of the power center you have.
    So since I only needed IQ-900, the next section about the installation is based on installed the IQ-900 model and not IQ900RS.

    The install is actually, very straight forward.
    The package comes with a pretty good set of instruction, to me the instructions looked like they were actually targeted toward a DIY install, but there is small print advising that this is not a DIY install and should only be done by a qualified professional. My comment here is simple. If you have basic understanding of your pool system (especially power center), understand how to work with electrical/electronic systems and have enough PC related knowledge to setup a wifi network you will have no issues getting this done. If not, do not attempt this and call someone that does!
    Back to the install. First thing that needs to be done, you will need your laptop and you will connect the antenna via provided USB cable to your PC to join the iaqualink to your home wifi system. You actually have to take the top cover off the Jbox to reveal the USB plug as its not an external connector. Inside the box there will also find an Ethernet plug for those who may actually able to hardwire the Jbox via Ethernet cable, but that was not an option for me as I don't have Ethernet connectivity outside, only wifi.
    Once you connect to your PC, the wifi tool (downloadable from Zodiac site) is ran that will guide you through steps of adding it to your wifi network, pretty straightforward, SSID, security settings, etc. pretty much as you would for any other wifi device. Once done, disconnect the USB and put the cover back on. Write down the MAC address, written on the label inside before closing the box, as you may need it for future reference.
    Next, make sure electrical power to power center is fully off, remove all the covers on your power center box to expose the 50 pin board (that's the board with all the buttons), flip the board down and you will see the cache board, pop the board off and replace with the one included with iQualink (you will not lose any program settings as those are stored elsewhere).
    Next locate any empty red four block connector on your power center (these are all low voltage) and connect the power cable from the antenna jbox. If all your four block connectors are in use with a single device, don't worry you can actually add a second device to each block.
    And this is it! Pretty simple.
    Oh yes, install the antenna jbox as far away from the equipment, and about 6' high, with as much of a direct line of sight to the location of your wife access point or router.
    Oh and another thing, if you have a wired onetouch controller in your home, you can actually hard connect your iaqualink antenna to you onetouch and keep the antenna inside, that will ofcourse eliminate any wifi coverage problems or even better may give you an ability to use Ethernet instead of wifi which can pretty much eliminate all the other potential issues i'm about to describe.

    Now check the indicator lights on the Jbox, there will be red (power), yellow (home network connectivity) and green (internet connectivity) lights. I suspect for many with the basic wifi setup at home, you will not need to do anything else and your iqualink should just connect with no issues, therefore you will be able to see all three lights lit up solid. If you do, your all set. Just go to iqualink.com, create and account and add your device using the serial number provided with the device. If iqualink can communicate with the zodiac's server you will see it as on-line if not it will be as off-line.

    Ofcourse this was not as straight forward for me. I've spent good three hours and several calls for support to figure out all my connectivity problems.
    My first issue was the fact that I did not have an access point that was in sufficient range to the antenna, therefore I was getting a blinking yellow light indicating that iaqualink was not able to connect to the network. My laptop sitting next to the antenna was still getting an ok signal, but as I was told by the support tech the iqualink's antenna is not as sensitive. Since I have three access points running inside my home, moving one closer to the side of the house were the pool is and facing the window as much possible was not an issue.
    However, after fixing the signal issue came the second issue that literally sent me into shock. iaqulink uses the 802.11B. Yes B. Its friggin 2014 and they still use B!!!! I don't even have B broadcasting anymore since all the wifi devices used in our home are either 802.11G or N. So yes you will need to make sure you're broadcasting B band on your wireless access point or the router. The issue however does not end there and even with now broadcasting B, I still was not able to connect. apparently as I was told by the support, you cannot broadcast the N band AT ALL on your wifi access point as for some reason iaqialink does not like that. So if your setting on you access point is set to broadcast B, G, N that will not work and it will only have to be B or B,G. This ofcourse creates a huge problem especially for those with a single access point that will basically no longer will be able to utilize high speed 802.11N protocol. Thankfully, since I have three access points this was not a huge deal for me to set one of the access points to B, G only as the other two will continue to serve N.
    But if you only have single AP, be prepared to either lose you 801.11N or dish out the $$ for a second AP.
    All I can say here is BOOOO Zodiac.
    With this issue out of the way, on to the next. With iaqualink now connected to my home network with a pretty good signal (getting 3/5 bars reported by power center, you can check through touch or onetouch controllers), im now getting a sold yellow light indicating a connection and I can also see iaqualink connected to the access point (you can cross reference by using the MAC address you've previously noted down by looking at your client connectivity logs in your AP), still however no green light for the web connectivity and onto a further troubleshooting.
    So at this point I can definitely see iaqualink connected to my access point as I can see a good 4-way handshake, but what I don't see is it being passed through to my DHCP server, so ofcourse no IP is being assigned, essentially Iaqualink traffic being stuck at the access point level and going no further. Another call to support and another shock. Iaqualink cannot use a DHCP server outside of one that comes with your router or access point NOR you're able to setup a static IP to ellimante DHCP altogether. Basically, unless already doing so, you must turn on DHCP on your AP or router, it can only be dynamic, no static MAC based reservations either. At this point, i'm getting pretty ******... mainly about the technological ineptitude or inadequacy of this device. Its 20friggin14 for crying out loud and this device is literally about 15 years behind the technological curve. OK, so this may not be a big issue for most that do allow their wireless access points or routers serve their DHCP functionality, but I don't like that (and im sure im not alone) and would like host DHCP elsewhere. Ofcourse running two DHCP servers on my network can present various issues, so I have to be careful on how I set that up.
    In any case, 3 hours later, with DHCP enabled on my AP, im now finally getting an IP lease and out to the internet. We have green light an all is working!

    to sum this up, if you can get passed the wifi/tech setup hurdles of this device, this truly is a great device. The ability to remotely administer your pool, check statuses, temp, etc, etc. is really awesome and I think its well worth the money. But definitely be prepared for what I've described above.
    19200gl rectangular gunite/diamondbrite perl pool || Coverpools auto cover || Jandy variable speed 2hp e-pump & Polaris PB4-60 booster pump || Polaris 3900 sport cleaner || Jandy CV filter || Jandy AqualinkRS8 w/Aqualink touch || Jandy iAqualink2.0 || Jandy Watercolors LED || Jandy AquaPure 1400 SWCG || Hayward auto chlorinator (backup) || Raypak 117k BTU heat pump

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Cypress, Texas
    Posts
    21

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    Accurate description of installation. I had an all-button RS/6 that would not control a VS pump. I upgraded with iAqualink because it was the cheapest way available to control my new Intelliflo VS pump without jacking around with Intellicom. And now my system is an RS/8! An added bonus was that it upgraded me to ver. T from ver N for only $300. Check out Jandy firmware upgrade prices. It will knock your socks off ($1200!)!! Also, I can now also control my yard lights, etc. Unlike Azmp1, my wireless network setup went off without a hitch. And the system controls the PENTAIR INTELLIFO VS seamlessly!!

    I Was so happy with the upgrade, I decided to drop the bucks to upgrade my control panel from an all-button RS/6 panel to a Touch. It has all the same functionality as the iAqualink app, without dependence on an internet connection (which can be an issue from time to time than you Comcast). But overall, I am very happy with the setup.

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    Azmp1. Thanks for the review. I made my husband (home IT guy) read this since this was one of the things he had to have in our pool build. We will be just getting pool running in the next week so timely. He said it was some great info. Now he just needs to start reading pool school in the forum because he will be adding pool boy to his resume


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    In ground 15x27. 84 feet perimeter; Gallons 12,800; Jandy VSP; Jandy DE60; Jandy LXI 400k NG; Barrcuda T5; 2 pool led lights; 1 spa Led light; aqua blue pebble sheen
    In Ground 15X27 80 ft perimeter; 3'6 to 5' depth; 9600 gallons; 2 skimmers; 6 returns; Jandy VSP; 2 pool LED lights; 1 spa pool light; pebble tech aqua blue, North Texas build complete April 2014

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Azmp1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    280

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    No problem! Glad my review is useful.
    Also, to r1100ron's point as far as wifi portion of the setup goes, I can certainly expect that good 85% of the people will have zero issues with it just like he didn't have any, as like I mentioned if you run a standard wifi setup with standard dhcp, you should be good. However, those issues with the install and the IT related shortcomings of the product are definitely there and hopefully in the future can at least save some folks hours of unnecessary troubleshooting. I'm sure there are quite a few of crazy IT folks like me around who like to have more then ordinary network setups in their homes

    I do have one question for you r1100ron. Did you also have to disable 802.11N band, or you don't run that band in the first place?


    19200gl rectangular gunite/diamondbrite perl pool || Coverpools auto cover || Jandy variable speed 2hp e-pump & Polaris PB4-60 booster pump || Polaris 3900 sport cleaner || Jandy CV filter || Jandy AqualinkRS8 w/Aqualink touch || Jandy iAqualink2.0 || Jandy Watercolors LED || Jandy AquaPure 1400 SWCG || Hayward auto chlorinator (backup) || Raypak 117k BTU heat pump

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Cypress, Texas
    Posts
    21

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    Azmp1 my router is 802.11b/g/n (NetGear WNDR 4700). Didn't have to disable anything.

  6. Back To Top    #6
    Azmp1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    280

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    That's good news. And that means that the Zodiac tech that I was talking didn't know what he was talking about (big surprise there!). I will try to set mine back to b/g/n and will see if that causes an issue. Like I said not that huge of deal for me since I have multiple AP's. I wonder if this could be device specific, as this particular access point is D-link.


    19200gl rectangular gunite/diamondbrite perl pool || Coverpools auto cover || Jandy variable speed 2hp e-pump & Polaris PB4-60 booster pump || Polaris 3900 sport cleaner || Jandy CV filter || Jandy AqualinkRS8 w/Aqualink touch || Jandy iAqualink2.0 || Jandy Watercolors LED || Jandy AquaPure 1400 SWCG || Hayward auto chlorinator (backup) || Raypak 117k BTU heat pump

  7. Back To Top    #7
    skylar18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    299

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    Yea, Zodiac gave you some bad info. I am running a Netgear wndr3700 dual band that is running a/b/g and n bands. I think I have it on my 2.4 frequency, don't think it worked on 5. I absolutely love the iaqualink. I also have the PDA setup so around the pool I have the waterproof device, and I have full remote capability on my phone and ipad with the iaqualink.
    43 x 19 Gunite Pool w/ spa and fire pit, 19,000 gallons, Pebble Sheen Aqua Blue finish, Jandy 2 HP VS E-pump, Jandy 580 sq ft Cartridge Filter, Jandy LXI 400k Heater, Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWCG, 4 Jandy LED color lights, Aqualink PDA and Iaqualink, Polaris 280 with Booster Pump. Polaris 9550 Robot Cleaner. 1 HP Silencer Air Blower for Spa http://www.troublefreepool.com/threa...NAL-INSPECTION

  8. Back To Top    #8
    ComputerGuyInNOLA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Mandeville, Louisiana
    Posts
    602

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    Azmp1,

    If you still have issues when you turn on N broadcasting, try updating the firmware on your router. I have had issues with Dlink DHCP on various networks. Usually a soft reset gets it working again. Another thing you could do is just run an old B/G router behind your current network router. Just put it on a different network addressing scheme. Since it will be connecting to the LAN port on your existing router it will give you the chance to locate it closer to your iAqaulink but you will need to run an Ethernet cable to the location.
    Gunite/Plaster pool at 13k gallons. All Jandy with CL340 series cartridge filter, 1.5 HP Jandy Stealth pump. Jandy 1400 SWCG and PDA4 controller. Dual waterfalls. Polaris 280. Pool installed August 2012. Southern Louisiana. And lets not forget my trusty TF100 test kit!

  9. Back To Top    #9

    In the Industry
    Pool Clown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA
    Posts
    1,637

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    I have installed a few of these (with all those problems) but have not installed one lately (in the last month) so i don't know if the following is true.

    I have heard that Jandy/ Zodiac has shifted into second gear (still not at full speed) and they seem to have resolved the B band issue, no longer requiring the broadcasting of it to make this work.
    Factory Warranty Station for:
    Jandy/Zodiac, Pentair, Sta-Rite, Raypak, Polaris,
    and Paramount pool cleaning systems.

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Mesa, AZ
    Posts
    1

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    I am having the same "not connected" problem with iaqualink... It worked fine for several weeks, then started having this problem on an intermittent basis and now has the issue all the time. It is not a signal strength problem because the router software shows the is iaqualink connected. I am beginning to think that this system can't handle outdoor weather very well, we live in Arizona and it is getting to be over 100 degrees everyday now. Has anyone been able to figure out a solution other than switched to a wired connection? Many thanks.

  11. Back To Top    #11
    Azmp1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    280

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    Quote Originally Posted by skylar18 View Post
    Yea, Zodiac gave you some bad info. I am running a Netgear wndr3700 dual band that is running a/b/g and n bands. I think I have it on my 2.4 frequency, don't think it worked on 5. I absolutely love the iaqualink. I also have the PDA setup so around the pool I have the waterproof device, and I have full remote capability on my phone and ipad with the iaqualink.
    Quote Originally Posted by ComputerGuyInNOLA View Post
    Azmp1,

    If you still have issues when you turn on N broadcasting, try updating the firmware on your router. I have had issues with Dlink DHCP on various networks. Usually a soft reset gets it working again. Another thing you could do is just run an old B/G router behind your current network router. Just put it on a different network addressing scheme. Since it will be connecting to the LAN port on your existing router it will give you the chance to locate it closer to your iAqaulink but you will need to run an Ethernet cable to the location.
    Nope... As soon as I turn N back on on this D-link AP, iaqualink fails to connect... running latest firmware too. Based on feedback it does look like its device specific with some devices having issues with N and some not. As I said not a big problem for me since I run multiple AP's and still have plenty of N coverage with my other 2 AP's.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pool Clown View Post
    I have installed a few of these (with all those problems) but have not installed one lately (in the last month) so i don't know if the following is true.

    I have heard that Jandy/ Zodiac has shifted into second gear (still not at full speed) and they seem to have resolved the B band issue, no longer requiring the broadcasting of it to make this work.
    Yes. They just released their iaqualink 2 product, which by the look of it B. G, N compliant. No functionality differences, but newer hardware and improved AP/router support.
    http://www.zodiacpoolsystems.com/Pro...iAquaLink.aspx

    Quote Originally Posted by Workmancave View Post
    I am having the same "not connected" problem with iaqualink... It worked fine for several weeks, then started having this problem on an intermittent basis and now has the issue all the time. It is not a signal strength problem because the router software shows the is iaqualink connected. I am beginning to think that this system can't handle outdoor weather very well, we live in Arizona and it is getting to be over 100 degrees everyday now. Has anyone been able to figure out a solution other than switched to a wired connection? Many thanks.
    Have you tried tracing the connection beyond your router? are you sure that even though iaqualink connects to your router, you're actually getting an IP lease from DHCP?
    19200gl rectangular gunite/diamondbrite perl pool || Coverpools auto cover || Jandy variable speed 2hp e-pump & Polaris PB4-60 booster pump || Polaris 3900 sport cleaner || Jandy CV filter || Jandy AqualinkRS8 w/Aqualink touch || Jandy iAqualink2.0 || Jandy Watercolors LED || Jandy AquaPure 1400 SWCG || Hayward auto chlorinator (backup) || Raypak 117k BTU heat pump

  12. Back To Top    #12

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Madison, NJ
    Posts
    1

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    Thanks for this great info. It saved me a lot of headache. After trying for an hour or two to get my iAquaLink to connect by WiFi, I did some research and found this thread. It convinced me to go directly to Ethernet. I had already run a spare conduit the to the house the previous season, so it was fairly easy. Once I did that, iAqualink worked immediately and I'm really happy with it. (I have the original one, not 2.0). Thanks everyone for posting their experiences and saving me a lot of time trying to wrestle with the WiFi.

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Plano, TX
    Posts
    212

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    There is a lot of information out there about troubleshooting connectivity problems with the iAquaLink. The best thing is a wired connection if at all possible. Trust me. For those who are doing wireless, some may work flawlessly with no problems ever, some may never get it to work. I will say this about Jandy's tech support. Some of what they say is true and some is not. It's usually not an issue of proximity to network. It usually is an issue with wireless interference because the quality of the hardware in the wireless piece is sub-standard and the technology they're using is really old. The unit connects via wireless B, which nothing uses anymore. Most routers will broadcast B and G, with newer ones doing N as well. If your router isn't doing B, you got no dice. Some households can broadcast all 3 and it connects and bam, it works. Some places will need to disable the N network. Also if your wireless piece is too close to a power outlet it can affect this as well. Here's the kicker: as with all electronic pieces, all of these pieces of hardware do not behave the same. Every case is different but it you're having problems, it's usually with wireless interference. Also certain brand routers just don't get along with the wireless piece. It makes no sense because internet is internet but when you have sub-standard equipment then it matters.
    Curtis- 20k gallon IG gunnite/plaster with hot tub/waterfall and "grotto"
    All Jandy equipment: 60sqft DE filter - 399k btu natural gas heater - Stealth pumps - iAquaLink RS8.
    Polaris 9400 on patrol.
    TF-100 in da house/TFP method in effect: FC=4-6, pH=7.5, TA=80, CH=250, CYA=50, Borate=50, CSI=-0.21

  14. Back To Top    #14
    Azmp1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    280

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    I think it boils down to the fact that the original iaqualink is a badly deigned, obsolete trash. After having all these issues 2 years ago and complaining to the regional rep, I finally got Jandy to replace it with then newly released iaqualink2 which has worked flawlessly to date. Zero issues described above. So, stay away from the original one even if you find for a great deal.


    19200gl rectangular gunite/diamondbrite perl pool || Coverpools auto cover || Jandy variable speed 2hp e-pump & Polaris PB4-60 booster pump || Polaris 3900 sport cleaner || Jandy CV filter || Jandy AqualinkRS8 w/Aqualink touch || Jandy iAqualink2.0 || Jandy Watercolors LED || Jandy AquaPure 1400 SWCG || Hayward auto chlorinator (backup) || Raypak 117k BTU heat pump

  15. Back To Top    #15

    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Plano, TX
    Posts
    212

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    The hardware in the iAquaLink 2 is essentially the same as what's in the original iAquaLink. The only changes they made is in the way you setup the wireless network. They opted not to update the design of the other circuitry at all. The fact that your new one works fine is just coincidence. This is just another testament to the inconsistency of integral components used in the construction of the PCB. Two identical units perform vastly different. Basically, they are making them as cheap as possible and selling them as a premium product. Unfortunately, I didn't know any of this before I bought one


    Curtis- 20k gallon IG gunnite/plaster with hot tub/waterfall and "grotto"
    All Jandy equipment: 60sqft DE filter - 399k btu natural gas heater - Stealth pumps - iAquaLink RS8.
    Polaris 9400 on patrol.
    TF-100 in da house/TFP method in effect: FC=4-6, pH=7.5, TA=80, CH=250, CYA=50, Borate=50, CSI=-0.21

  16. Back To Top    #16

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    Has anyone thought of using a Powerline Ethernet adapter and just eliminating wifi?
    Amazon.com: TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps: Computers Accessories

    This unit would need to plug in near the aqualink and you would have to protect it from the elements.
    Beyond that- there should be not setup.

  17. Back To Top    #17

    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Lahaina, HI
    Posts
    1

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    How sure are you about the DHCP issue? I can't find any documentation about DHCP which would allow me to believe that the DHCP had to be the router or access point. I thought dhcp requests are just broadcast around on the network, so it wouldn't matter who hands out the leases.

    I just want to make sure this isn't a red herring as I am having some connectivity issues, but the comment on dhcp really surprised me.

    thanks,
    craig

    ps. Would you happen to have correspondence via email with Jandy which states that limitation with respect to dhcp?

  18. Back To Top    #18


    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Carrollton tx
    Posts
    419

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    I think the notes about not allowing reservations maybe Misinformation
    a reservation is done on the router side, the router simply assigns the same ip to the same MAC address
    the client in most cases sees no difference

    when recently tried to connect mine, I had a number of issues with the app that sets the wifi details
    This thread fixed it for me
    iAqualink IQ900-A issues!!

    i had read other threads and went ahead and tried " dumbing down" the FiOS provided n capable wifi in attempts to get it connected.
    After the last tip in the above thread mine connected
    I later went back in and turned wpa2 back on and turned n back on
    everything works

    edit -I changed the settings yesterday to reenable n and the link still worked

    today it stopped
    i redisabled n remotely and the iaqualink came back
    ill check it more next week
    Doug - Purchased 1/2016, 1995 house with 16x31 ft, ~23000 gallon Gunite pool w 11x7 spa, 3 Pentair VS pumps, a boost pump for polaris 3900 and a BaduŽ Jet super-sport swim jet pump, 1.5 hp blower, a CL460 Cartridge filter. TF-100 test kit. Aquapure SWG, iAqualink - Lots to learn. New Aquabright, Jandy LEDs, CMP LED Sheers.

  19. Back To Top    #19


    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Carrollton tx
    Posts
    419

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    update N definitely works with mine
    the Access point built into the Fios router and the Ubiquiti Access point in garage by the pool both have BGN mode enabled
    Doug - Purchased 1/2016, 1995 house with 16x31 ft, ~23000 gallon Gunite pool w 11x7 spa, 3 Pentair VS pumps, a boost pump for polaris 3900 and a BaduŽ Jet super-sport swim jet pump, 1.5 hp blower, a CL460 Cartridge filter. TF-100 test kit. Aquapure SWG, iAqualink - Lots to learn. New Aquabright, Jandy LEDs, CMP LED Sheers.

  20. Back To Top    #20

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Denison, Tx
    Posts
    1

    Re: Jandy i-aqualink

    Quote Originally Posted by ebrow View Post
    Has anyone thought of using a Powerline Ethernet adapter and just eliminating wifi?
    Amazon.com: TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps: Computers Accessories

    This unit would need to plug in near the aqualink and you would have to protect it from the elements.
    Beyond that- there should be not setup.
    I've used a Powerline for 3 years, however over the last 3 months I've had severe connection problems. I'm wondering if I need to replace my Powerline (which is cheap) or if something else is going on?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •