Newbie with TF-100 results and pics

Apr 11, 2014
66
Central Tx
We moved into a house this winter that had a pool but the cover was on it. I finally took the cover off today since I got my TF-100 kit in the mail so I could do some initial testing. Results are below. I also turned the pump on for the first time without the freeze switch turning it on itself. Before turning on the pump, I cleaned both of the skimmers and the filter that's before the pump.

I've read through most of the Pool School stuff, so I plan on SLAMing it this week. Before I do that I need to get the pH down to a normal level. I also think I need to add some water since it only comes up about half way to the skimmer doors, which hinge at the bottom, meaning no water is flowing into the skimmers due to the level. Any issues with adding water now? Also, what is a good initial pump schedule? My Polaris vacuum is at the bottom of the pool (out of sight) and not hooked up. Do I need to hook this up now? Sorry for all of the n00b questions, just trying to learn as much as possible.

pH: > 8.2 (off the chart)
FC: 0
CC: 0
TC: 0
TA: 40
Calcium: >750 (stopped testing at 30 drops)
CYA: <20 (never lost sight of the black dot)
Pump PSI: 23

20Apr142.jpg

20Apr14.jpg
 
Yes, definitely get the pH down. However, with the low TA, it won't take much acid to drop it. Once the pH is down, recheck the TA and bring it back to about 60. I would suspect testing error on the calcium hardness test.
 
Yes, definitely get the pH down. However, with the low TA, it won't take much acid to drop it. Once the pH is down, recheck the TA and bring it back to about 60. I would suspect testing error on the calcium hardness test.

Thanks for the response.

Pool Math is recommending me to add 20oz of 31.45% MA. Are you saying it won't take as much since the TA is so low? Also, any tips to adding the MA? This is the one chemical the previous owner left me so I plan on doing it tonight.
 
Thanks for the response.

Pool Math is recommending me to add 20oz of 31.45% MA. Are you saying it won't take as much since the TA is so low? Also, any tips to adding the MA? This is the one chemical the previous owner left me so I plan on doing it tonight.
If you enetered all your readings, the acid dosage will be calculated factoring in the TA value. Just be aware that if pH reads 8.2, it may well be higher, and could take another dosing to actually bring it into range.
 
Poolmath will be close as long as you entered correct values for pool volume, pH, TA and Borates.

TA and Borates act as a pH "buffer." Having those at higher levels would require you to add more acid for the same desired change in pH. It is however unlikely that you have Borates.
 
Thanks guys.

Yes, I entered in all of the current values on PoolMath and it told me 20oz of MA. I just got done adding it in front of one of the returns. It took me about 5 minutes to add it, since I read it must be done slow to not damage the plaster. The pump has been running for about 3 hours now so I'll give it another hour then call it a day. What do you guys think about the water level? If it's not going over the skimmer gate as of now, it's obviously too low, correct? Is now a good time to add?
 
You also asked about pump run time, until you get it clear, you will want to run it as much as possible (you will want to be around to back wash often in the initial stages of cleaning up)

Ike
 

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The SLAM process is a multi day affair when dealing with swamp conditions, the first day or two and you will likely be backwashing the filter every few hours, as things clear the time between the need to backwash will increase, once you get down to the once to twice per day point, then you can backwash before going to bed, and check it in the morning.

Ike
 
The SLAM process is a multi day affair when dealing with swamp conditions, the first day or two and you will likely be backwashing the filter every few hours, as things clear the time between the need to backwash will increase, once you get down to the once to twice per day point, then you can backwash before going to bed, and check it in the morning.

Ike

How will I know when to backwash? I read the backwash "How To" but it never stated when to do it.

Also, I read about adding DE to a sand filter. Would it be pointless to do now or would it benefit me now to help clear the water?
 
How will I know when to backwash? I read the backwash "How To" but it never stated when to do it.

Also, I read about adding DE to a sand filter. Would it be pointless to do now or would it benefit me now to help clear the water?

Watch the PSI on the filter gauge. when it increases by say EDITED20-25% of it's clean value, backwash. I'd wait to add the DE. It's more of a finishing polish (in theory) and you'll just backwash it out at this point. Some people wait longer on the backwashing...
 
A 10-15% rise is a little lower than we recommend. I would wait for 20-25% rise. Sand filters seem to filter a little better when they're a little bit dirty. If you backwash too often, you lose this benefit, plus it's more work (and water dumped overboard) than necessary.

You're right, I had the wrong % in my head. My bad. Edit ninja here I come.
 
Thanks guys. I did read about the pressure increase but considering this is the first time I've turned on my pump and noted the pressure, I'm not sure if this is the "dirty" pressure or clean. Should I go ahead and backwash to start and go from there? I've run my pump now for 5 hours and had no pressure increase.

- - - Updated - - -

tangouniform might not know the normal pump pressure since they moved in during the winter. Can you post another PH result now that you have added the MA?

I posted my reply at the same time as yours. I will get another pH reading during lunch.
 

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