Is it possible to Install a Salt Water Generator on my setup?

[sunnyaz]

Ike,
If I did what you said and sacrificed the backwash valve, would I want to cut the pipe as close as possible to the backwash valve and then put 90 degrees on those pieces of pipe that formerly stuck out of the backwash valve and then run new pipe from there, or for the one coming from the pump on the left (bottom line) do you think I will have to cut the 90 off and rune a line straight? How much pipe needs to be used inside a 90 or a connector? can it be only 1 inch of existing pipe going into a new 90?

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Also, is there a better push pull valve or am I stuck with the Hayward? Looks like I can get one on amazon for around $70...

http://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SP0410X502S-Micro-Clear-Assembly-2-Inch/dp/B002EL3YXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397694998&sr=8-1&keywords=hayward+push+pull

 

[jblizzle]

Your drawing is what I was thinking, that would be cheaper than replacing the backwash valve.

You could upgrade to a multi-valve which has more options than the plunger you have if you go route.

If you replace the valves, get a Jandy Neverlube (or similar) 3 way valve.

The flow switch can go before the cell. In fact it could go before the filter if the cell is before the return valve(s).

 

[sunnyaz]

Thank you. A lot to think about. I may have a few more questions after looking at it tonight.

 

[Isaac-1]

Jason my thought was that the backwash valve might be a little more expensive to sacrifice, but that the plumbing construction would be easier for someone that lacks experience working with PVC. Also that given the visible condition that there may also be a wear issue with the current backwash valve.

 

[jblizzle]

Valid point.

 

[sunnyaz]

I am uploading more pics of the setup. I believe I am going to remove the backwash and put a new one on and rotate the filter. Question, if I remove the valves instead and install a jandy neverlube, I am assuming I will need one for the pool return and one for the aerator, correct? For the aerator, would it be okay to keep a similar valve that is currently on it and use the jandy just for the main return?

 

[jblizzle]

I was suggesting a single 3-way valve like you have in front of your pump. There would be no need to have a separate valve on the aerator because the 3-way could be used to close it off or allow some (or all, but not likely a good idea) of the flow to the aerator.

 

[sunnyaz]

Do I have to worry about any air or eddies forming with the tight turns? Should I use a 45 of the main return valve, or would a 90 be okay like seen below?

 

[jblizzle]

90s are fine. Realize that some flow switches need at least 12" of straight pipe in front of them.

 

[sunnyaz]

Do you know if on a Hayward it does? If so, can I switch where the flow switch and cell are, and put the filter a few inches after the cell, thus creating more than 12" of straight pipe (including the cell which is approx 13")?

Nevermind, the manual says the cell can count as the straight pipe. Thanks!

 

[sargent]

How about something like this? Sorry about not being able to make it look right in 3D.

 

[sargent]

Nevermind, the manual says the cell can count as the straight pipe. Thanks!

Just make sure that the water flows through the cell before the flow switch if you are counting on that length.

 

[jblizzle]

You are getting better at Paint . That is exactly what I had envisioned. Although likely would still cut off below the 2 orange valves.

 

[sunnyaz]

So you are thinking cutting below the two valves and adding the neverlube at the tee? Would I ever have to worry about if the pipes need repairing under it that I will not have any more space before I hit the ground?

Sargent, I think that is what Jason was saying. Thank you

 

[jblizzle]

To add the new Jandy 3-way, you have to cut out the Tee and the 90s going into it, I am not sure there is enough pipe above the valves to connect into. And with a 3-way you do not need those valves.

You can cut the pipes just below the valves and then extend the pipe back up to whatever level you want before you put on the 90s and into the 3-way. So you will have plenty of pipe to mess with later if needed.

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Re-looking at the pictures, you could cut the vertical pipes just below the 90s and keep the orange valves if you wanted. Then extend up and add 90s and either just use a plain Tee again (turned up for the SWG to come down into) or use a 3-way valve (my preference).

Problem with keeping the orange valves is if you end up with a problem with them, you may not have enough pipe to cut them out and keep the new 90s and 3-way (if you get it). The Jandy valves are not cheap, so I like to keep a fair bit of pipe around them in case I need to repair.

 

[sunnyaz]

Sargent, with yours you are saying to have the t vertival and cut above the valves? I like that as it seems to save length of pipe coming out the ground.

 

[sargent]

I had in mind having the three way valve vertical, just like Jason said. If you do that, it seems like you might as well cut out the old valves.

If you want to keep the old valves, then it seems to me that you might as well use a tee instead of the three way valve.

In my own plumbing I just use ball valves that I bought at Lowes. After reading a bit on this forum, I gather that the Jandy never lube valves will last much longer, and I probably would use them if I were to redo my plumbing.


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