Question re Heater Plumbing (picture included)

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Bornnole

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Apr 16, 2009
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So I had my heater installed yesterday and got him and I am concerned whether it was plumbed in correctly or if my pool builder ran out of connections and made do with what he had rather than going back to the supply store.

I can't for the life of me figure out why this was plumbed this way because it doesn't make sense. If anyone can help me understand whether it was done correctly or whether I have cause to be concerned that would be awesome. I just don't understand why the return from the heater is plumbed so that water is forced up to a closed valve past the T connection that returns water to the pool.

Hopefully the picture helps someone to answer my question.

Thank you.

Heater Plumb.jpg
 
Plumbing Question (pic included)

Topic merged. Please never ask the same question in more than one place. JasonLion

So I had my heater installed yesterday and got him and I am concerned whether it was plumbed in correctly or if my pool builder ran out of connections and made do with what he had rather than going back to the supply store.

I can't for the life of me figure out why this was plumbed this way because it doesn't make sense. If anyone can help me understand whether it was done correctly or whether I have cause to be concerned that would be awesome. I just don't understand why the return from the heater is plumbed so that water is forced up to a closed valve past the T connection that returns water to the pool.

Hopefully the picture helps someone to answer my question.

Thank you.

Heater Plumb.jpg
 
Looks to me like a heater bypass, that can be switched to fully bypass the heater if needed.

When the valve is set for flow to the heater, it blocks off the other way. Since it is blocked, water takes the path of last resistance through the lower T back the pool.

The black thing on the bottom is a check valve, which prevents water from flowing the wrong way.

Elegant? Not especially, but not horrid, and it looks to me like it should work fine. I am not a pro, but I might have done something similar this situation.

Opinions from others are certainly welcome.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
 
+1 for what peterdaly said.

That is a good setup, allowing you to completely isolate/turn off the heater, or run 100% through the heater (current setting), or to run part of the flow through the heater. The valves are high quality valves, and putting in the bypass gives you extra options that the plumber didn't need to give you.
 
Re: Plumbing Question (pic included)

Yes. That is a bypass loop. You can shut off the heater feed and go direct to the pool while the heater is not in use. It will save erosion of your heat exchanger and allows heater maintenance while the pool is still running.

For instance: turn the three way to where the only blocked side is the heater feed. Then what I assume is a check valve will prevent water from flowing back into the heater. The water will then run to the pool without going through the heater. When the valve is turned where the heater feed is open (and the bypass is closed), then the only route is through the heater.

Also, the check valve is important to not allow super-chlorinated water to backfeed into the heater from the salt cell when you turn the pump off.

Looks like he used quality materials. Good install in my book.
 
Not sure if this was part of this install, but I love the two 45's to make the 90 degree corner. That will increase your pump efficiency. I did that on as many of my own corners as I reasonably could. It takes less pumping power to push water through two 45's than a right angle bend.

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Thanks everyone. Sorry for posting in two places, I wasn't sure where it belonged. It looked weird that there would be a length of pipe above the T-connector but it sounds like it isn't a big deal.

Gas hooked up today and then swimming this weekend! :D
 
Professionally, it looks stupid. Functional, but stupid looking. To me it looks like he used what he had left so he didn't have to run out and get stuff.

BTW, PVC 45's cost more than a 90. So they spend more money doing it this way.
 
ps0303 said:
Professionally, it looks stupid. Functional, but stupid looking. To me it looks like he used what he had left so he didn't have to run out and get stuff.

BTW, PVC 45s cost more than a 90. So they spend more money doing it this way.
Click to expand...

I think he was dealing with how the existing equipment was set up which is why the piping looks funny. The 45s seem to make sense to me from a pump efficiency perspective and I can't imagine the difference in price between the 45s and 90s is significant, is it?
 
Two 45s are about $3, while a single 90 is around $1. The labor to cut the short piece that joins them costs more than the fittings. In any case still not significant. At the same time the improvement in efficiency is also so small as to be not significant.
 

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Jason, at my local Lowe's, they have 45's that already have a pipe sized end molded right as part the piece, so no middle piece is required. It glues directly into another standard 45 to make a clean 90 without any additional parts or labor, other than to glue the two pieces together.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
 
peterdaly said:
Jason, at my local Lowe's, they have 45's that already have a pipe sized end molded right as part the piece, so no middle piece is required. It glues directly into another standard 45 to make a clean 90 without any additional parts or labor, other than to glue the two pieces together.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That would be called a street 45.
 
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