Plumbing Help

[dmullen]

Hey Guys!

I have to replace one of the valve's in my above ground pool's plumbing and wanted to get your input on how I should do it as I am not much of a handyman but I can definitely follow detailed directions! The valve was frozen shut so I tapped it with a rubber mallet and both ears broke off. When I finally did get it to move it is not working. I'm thinking that I will have to cut the piping off with a hacksaw on both sides of it. Besides the valve what else will I need? What type glue, fittings, etc.? Any ideas of suggestions would be very much appreciated. Don't assume I know anything and please give me all the necessary steps! Thank you! The first three pics are of the valve I need to replace. The 4th is the type valve I am talking about.

 

[Taterfink]

Could you cut out the offending valve and replace with a new one using one of these unions ( http://www.hardwarestore.com/union-116475.aspx#1 )on at least one side . Seems like it'd be easier to slide into the gap left after cutting it out. Easier anyway than just using two couplers. Just brain storming.

 

[jblizzle]

There are also ball valves with built in unions ... Although all PVC ball valves fail like yours did, the pool valves are better but pricey.

 

[JamesW]

In the top picture, you can see the black stem with the two notches. If you remove the handle, you can use pliers on the stem to turn the ball in the valve. If the ball is too tight, then it will need to be replaced.

 

[Isaac-1]

Typical hardware store ball valves will swell with time when used on swimming pools, typically after 3-5 years, and you now know the results of the swelling. The next step up will be a PVC valve built for pool use, and above that would be something like a Never-Lube Pool valve. Hayward makes a PVC pool valve with built in slip union and slip fitting on both sides which should be an easy fix for your problem. The only detail you need to be careful about is cutting to the right length when removing the old valve and leaving enough stub to glue in a replacement on the side near the end of the pipe. Google Hayward SP0722S price should be about double the typical cheap import hardware store valves. (about $20) As to glue you need primer (either purple primer, or clear cleaner will work) and a PVC glue, for pool applications I like to use the Blue Rain or Shine glue, but standard medium PVC glue will work too just make sure it says for PVC not for CPVC they are different. Coat both mating surfaces to be glued with primer or cleaner (primer is purple, thin and messier, don't wear good clothes) this prepares the surface for bonding, a few seconds later you will be ready to glue the fitting, for this coat the mating surfaces with a thin layer of PVC glue, press the fittings together with a slight twisting motion and hold together for a few seconds for the bond to set. Depending on temperature you will not have much working time, as little as 2 or 3 seconds in warm weather, finish assembly and wait at least 30 minutes before pressurizing (in cold weather make that at least 2 hours if using blue type glue, if using medium clear you will need to wait longer).

Ike

p.s. if you cut too short you can use a coupler and a small length of pipe to add some length ( most hardware stores / big box stores) sell short lengths of PVC pipe 2-3 ft for a couple of dollars. Or they also make slip style sliding extension splices for this sort of application, they can be handy, but cost about $15-$20 in 1.5 inch, so about 10 times the price of a coupler and a bit of pipe.

 

[dmullen]

Thanks for the help guys!