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Thread: About to open in central Illinois

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    About to open in central Illinois

    This will be my first year following the BBB method entirely. Trial was end of last year as I wasn't willing to empty my pool to the level it was needed in order to get my CYA down. I had a professional close my pool really late. It was crystal clear when we closed and he threw in a 3 month algaecide. I just pulled back the cover and it is very green (already??). We just had our first over 40 degree night temp. I'd like to open the pool myself this year so my question (after reading the sticky on opening) goes as follows: I assume I should apply a 3 month algaecide again and raise chlorine for good shock to get started? When sucking out what is on the bottom (I have a tight mesh cover but worms and leaves/dirt always make it in), I should be vacuuming to waste, I assume? Is anyone aware of a tape that provides traction for safety that can be under water all season (my stepmom broke her arm last year slipping on my steps)? I drained 1/4 of my pool to close last year (which is what I needed to get my CYA down according to calculations) but it filled back up over winter. Do I start by shocking and algaecide first, then testing for CYA, then removing water as necessary or some other sequence of events? Thanks for the help--this site has been a godsend over the last 3 years. . .
    40,000 gallons (20' x 40'); IG; vinyl liner
    sand filter
    BBB method for 2 full seasons
    tf100 test kit
    central Illinois

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    First, forget about algaecide ... especially after you already have algae. Chlorine works better and is cheaper.

    You want to scoop out everything you can, maybe vac to waste a bit. Then you need to test all the test levels and specifically know the CYA level (do you have one of the Recommended Test Kits?) so that you know the required FC level. Then you need to follow the SLAM Process exactly until you pass the 3 criteria to stop.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Smykowski's Avatar
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    It's green already because the "professional" likely didn't put in enough chlorine before the close. I didn't use any algaecide for the last two winters, and opened up to clear water both springs.

    Blizzle has you covered on the rest.
    33' round, 23,000 gal AG vinyl , 1HP 2spd PowerFlo Matrix downsized with 3/4HP impeller (X2), Hayward S180T 150# sand filter (X2), Hayward H250 NG heater Pool Store year 1 - $850 for 2 months; Pool Store year 2 - $440 for 2 months, TFPC year 1 - $170 for 4 months; TFPC year 2 - $95 for 4.5 months
    The most important article on this site - The ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    The SLAM process is up in Pool School just in case you don't see it.
    Dave S.
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    Quote Originally Posted by Smykowski View Post
    It's green already because the "professional" likely didn't put in enough chlorine before the close. I didn't use any algaecide for the last two winters, and opened up to clear water both springs.

    Blizzle has you covered on the rest.
    I think its green because either it was closed too early (water still above 50) or opened too late (again water above 50).

    I closed in November, water was low 50's and opened a couple weeks ago (water was 42). I added nothing when closing, when I opened it was crystal clear, cold but clear.

    I think you should open earlier IMO. You have a mesh cover, that lets sunlight through which will warm the water and also will facilitate algae. Curious what your water temp is?
    DIY 18x36 IG Vinyl Rectangle with 2 foot radius; Steel Walls. 8' steps w/t 2 step jets; 2 MD, 1 Skimmer, 2 returns; Hayward Pro Series 24 Inch 300# Sand Pool ; Hayward color logic 4.0 LED light; 2" PVC pipe 4 Jandy Valves, Hayward PL-P-4, SWCG

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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    Update: my pool is mostly clear now. We started last week with opening it and getting chlorine levels up with liquid chlorine. Here are my levels:

    PH=7.2
    TA=100
    CYA=100 (based on the kit everyone here suggests although the fast read sticks say 30-50)
    FC=0

    Any suggestions on the CYA and chlorine? SLAM process?
    40,000 gallons (20' x 40'); IG; vinyl liner
    sand filter
    BBB method for 2 full seasons
    tf100 test kit
    central Illinois

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    Replace at least half the water to get the CYA reasonable. Then start the SLAM process.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    I am on well water so my iron and hardness is very high in our area. Will that be a concern and/or will that ruin all the good I will be doing by lowering the CYA? Another option is to truck in water, but with an obvious cost and uncertainty on water quality. . . Thoughts/opinions?? I have plenty of time before we can swim given current weather patterns. . . .
    40,000 gallons (20' x 40'); IG; vinyl liner
    sand filter
    BBB method for 2 full seasons
    tf100 test kit
    central Illinois

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    Well, it is not good to add iron to your pool, but it is also not good to have such high CYA.
    With the iron you can use a sequestrant to avoid staining. With the high CYA, you will have to maintain MUCH high FC levels to avoid algae.

    You never answered the question: What test kit are you using? Are you sure the CYA is not even higher?
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    TFTestkits
    TF-1002

    It is definitely not higher than 110. . . .
    40,000 gallons (20' x 40'); IG; vinyl liner
    sand filter
    BBB method for 2 full seasons
    tf100 test kit
    central Illinois

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    OK, some people just say 100 when the water stops well below the 100 line which could be significantly higher.

    So you have 3 choices, none ideal:
    1. Try to clear and keep clear a pool with high CYA
    2. Replace with well water and potentially get metal staining if you do not maintain adequate sequestrants
    3. Have water trucked in that hopefully is lower in metal
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    A properly maintained pool isn't slick as ice. If you can get your numbers dialed in and study Pool School and how to properly maintain your pool water, there should be no reason you need to tape the steps for traction.
    I'd bet you my bikini you'll never get TFP water from a pool store!

    24' Sharkline Venture De Filter

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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    I removed approximately 50% of my pool water and replaced with well water (unfortunately). My new numbers are as follows:
    CYA=50
    TA=270
    PH=7.6
    CH=260
    TC and FC were at 0 but I've since begun the SLAM process, as recommended and I'm working to maintain FC at 20 during the process. Pool is light green with some metal staining. I also added some metal remover and have been filtering out/vacuuming to waste a few times before beginning SLAM. I also plan to add vitamin c to remove the staining from the vinyl liner. Pool is slowly clearing. Should I be concerned about the high CH and TA amounts? What is the best way to bring them down if so?
    40,000 gallons (20' x 40'); IG; vinyl liner
    sand filter
    BBB method for 2 full seasons
    tf100 test kit
    central Illinois

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    No, don't worry about either. Just monitor your PH, keep it below 7.8. Every time it hits 7.8, use Muratic Acid to lower it to 7.2. Use PoolMath to calculate how much acid that is. Eventually the TA level will come down. Don't worry about the CH, it's fine.

    You're doing great!
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    Where is the best place to get muratic acid? I'm keeping my fc between 4 and 8 as it suggested on the chart which means I'm having to add about 1 jug of liquid chlorine each day. Does that make sense? 80 degree average days here now.
    40,000 gallons (20' x 40'); IG; vinyl liner
    sand filter
    BBB method for 2 full seasons
    tf100 test kit
    central Illinois

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: About to open in central Illinois

    Muriatic acid is sold by most hardware stores. I get mine at Home Depot.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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