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Thread: Pipe replacements

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    49

    Pipe replacements

    Hi All,

    I need to replace my pump. Since I'm going to do that work i would also like to replace the existing piping with ridged white pipe . I've got a couple of questions I'm hoping people can help me out with.
    The first is, I'd like to replace the grey and white flexible pipes (three of them that you can see in the picture) with the solid white pool piping...you can see that these are connected to the black semi flexible pipe (not sure of the technical name) going/coming from the drain/skimmer and returns. The question is, what kind of connector would I use to join the black semi flexible pipe to the new solid white pipes? I'd like to make this a permanent connection since this seems like a place that always leaks.

    The second question is, the pump is below the water level of the pool by about 2 feet. Any time I tape into the main drain pipe, the water starts to flow. Is there a way to temporarily plug the main drain (a rubber mat or something laid down over the drain?) with out getting in the pool?

    The third is, since my pump is not at water level (and this makes maintenance difficult due to the water flow from the pool) would it be a good or bad idea to build a shelf (to bring it to water level) for the pump to sit on. (this would have the added benefit of being at a higher level when working on it) or should I just loop the piping above water level then back down to the pump?

    The forth, I know this is likely a preference thing, but I wouldn't mind getting input on it, would it be a good idea to put unions in just before central diverter?

    Thanks for any input
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  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Pipe replacements

    1. You would need a barbed fitting like you have on one side and either a pipe thread or slip fitting on the other side (likely a threaded and then you would use a PVC adapter to switch to the slip fittings).

    2. A rubber mat might slow it down. Just glue all the solid pipe first and then work on the barbed fitting. You could open up the pump lid before to see if the mat is working at preventing the flow out the drain.

    3. If you raise the pump, then you will need a self-priming pump instead of an above-ground pump. I would just add some shut off valves that you can close to isolate the pump.
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  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    49

    Re: Pipe replacements

    Thanks for your input Jason. I'll post an "after" picture...that will not be blurry, of the hopefully tidy results.

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