Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 35

Thread: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Hello. I'm not a pool professional....just trying to take care of my pool...The pool was run on Aquasilk for 2 years. There was a SWG installed but not running. I wanted to switch to Salt and local store told me to put salt, wait 24 hours and then turn on the cell. Which I did. Seems like the the salt and chlorine levels went up. It's been few days and the water is way cleaner than before and algae that I could not get rid of before clear overnight.....but then I start reading all the comments here about the process, bleach etc. The store guy never mentioned things like that. Hope is not too late. I would appreciate any advice at this moment to make sure the convention is getting the right way. Thank you


  2. Back To Top    #2
    JasonLion's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
    Posts
    37,879

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Welcome to TFP!

    Water test results are the key to knowing what is going on. Do you have one of the test kits we recommend?
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Yes I have the Taylor 2005. Will get all the results tomorrow. Thank you for your quick answer. Much appreciated .


  4. Back To Top    #4
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Just so you are aware, you will want to add the FAS-DPD chlorine test to your kit to give you the equivalent to the recommended K-2006. This is the key to being able to accurately test and control your FC and CC levels.

    Just can find it here: http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlori...-test-p47.html or try searching Google.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Thank you. I will see if they have the additional test at the store to give you the full results.


  6. Back To Top    #6
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    They won't, unless you have a commercial supply store nearby. Don't be surprised if they have no idea what you are talking about or tell you it is not needed. Also, it is NOT the same as the DPD test.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Oh boy. This look much more complicated than I thought .....I see what I can do. Maybe I get complete new set.


  8. Back To Top    #8
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    The FAS-DPD test is actually easier to do correctly than any of the color matching tests. It is the same process you are currently doing with the CH and TA tests, but you are changing the color from pink to clear and counting drops.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Ok....following your advice I purchased the DPD Complete Test Kit . Did the tests.....Also seems like I have to add more salt as the strip test shows little more than 2000 ppm and I guess that's way the system shows low salt level and the chlorinator Off.
    Also some of the test shows different colors, could it be because of the AquaSilk products are still there (Biquanide).

    These are the results: again I'm pretty new to it and I followed the instructions....:

    FC - 0 or less than 5.1 (didn't change color)
    TC - 0
    PH - 7.6
    TA - 40 ( the color turned purple instead of red)
    CH - couldn't tell as the sample turned blue right away instead of red) any ideas why ?
    CYA - has to be less than 30 as I could see the black dot on the bottom with full sample.

    Please send your advices my way.....hope is not too late and I will be able to manage the levels and get the water balanced . Thank you for your time....


  10. Back To Top    #10
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Our advice was not to buy the DPD test kit ... it was to buy the FAS-DPD test kit which is a completely different way of testing FC and CC.

    I can only guess that the pool store told you they were the same thing

    In fact, is what you bought the same as the K-2005 you already had?

    You can add the FAS-DPD to your kit to have the equivalent:
    http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlori...-test-p47.html

    I don't think you finished the TA test and the CH turning blue means that your water is VERY soft with almost no CH in it.

    Check this out: Extended Test Instructions
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  11. Back To Top    #11

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Oh boy...yes they told me this is the same test.....


  12. Back To Top    #12
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    I think what you bought is EXACTLY the same as the K-2005 you already had.

    And people wonder why pool stores get a bad rep on this forum.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Well....is there any way to see what could be done to balance the water ? I just added 2 bags of salt ...I'm sure it will take some time to show in the system.....


  14. Back To Top    #14

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Yes it looks similar.....and I told the guy which test I have.....I guess once they see you are new to those stuff they tell you whatever they want.....


  15. Back To Top    #15
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    All the tests in the 2 kits you now have are the same as those in the recommended test kit with the exception of the chlorine tests.

    So you can balance everything except having a good feel for the actual FC and CC levels.

    You should always turn your SWG off for a day after you add any salt.

    Read the extended test instructions and try the TA again. And get some bleach in the water!!!

    You will also need to start adding some CYA at least to get a reading around 30-50ppm, then verify no SLAMing is needed, then you can raise higher for the SWG levels.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  16. Back To Top    #16

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Thank you.....how much bleach should I add ? The pool is 17000 gallons. Thank you for the advice about cell..I didn't know that....so this test even if includes the test for FC and CC is not really as accurate and good as the one you recommended ?


  17. Back To Top    #17
    JasonLion's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
    Posts
    37,879

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    You should do the full baqua conversion process, see the instructions in Pool School (How To section). The process will go more quickly because you have already added some chlorine, but you still have a significant ways to go before it is complete.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  18. Back To Top    #18

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    I didnt know about this forum and the store guy told me it's a simple process just put the salt and turn on the cell.....I didn't have any idea this will be more complicated ....is the pool ok to swim at this moment ?


  19. Back To Top    #19
    JasonLion's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
    Posts
    37,879

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    If FC is zero, then no not safe to swim. FC at zero is what I expect in the first third of a baqua conversion.

    However, I saw you weren't completely sure of that reading. If the sample doesn't change color in a DPD chlorine test it either means FC is zero or that FC is above 10. The purple color in the TA test just slightly suggests a high FC level, though not very strongly as other things can cause that. I don't see any clear reason to suspect high FC levels, unless you added a lot of chlorine and didn't mention doing so. If you have an OTO chlorine test you could try that. The OTO test is very reliable at testing FC at or near zero vs FC really high, though not very good at all at telling you exactly what the FC level actually is. But the OTO test does not come with a Taylor K-2005 or K-2006.

    Sadly, you need to make up your mind about switching away from baqua (AquaSilk) or not and commit to one path or the other. It does take some work to do a conversion, and simply running the SWG for a while will not do it. For that matter, I don't recommend using the SWG until a full conversion is complete. During the conversion there tends to be a goo produced that can foul up a SWG (and the filter).
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  20. Back To Top    #20
    Administrator Leebo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Eastern Ohio
    Posts
    6,599

    Re: Switching from AquaSilk to Salt Water

    Take a look again at Pool School on Converting your Baqua Pool to Chlorine. Having done this conversion myself two years ago I can promise you that there is NO way your SWG will keep up, and it's less likely that your local pool store will give you the correct advice on this conversion. In fact, our local store came out to visit during our conversion, as they had never even heard of such a process. The swap will take a TON of chlorine and a good bit of your time. In the end however you'll be left with a pool that takes minutes a day to maintain, for just a few bucks a day.

    Read the article in Pool School and ask any questions you may have. I'll gladly give you any assistance from first hand experience that I can.......unlike your pool store, who's leading you in the wrong direction.

    For starters........Please update your location. A pool in Texas will be maintained slightly different than a pool in Ohio. We like to work each pool separately, to help each member out best.

    Welcome to TFP!

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •