But today brings another problem. It's not generating chlorine for a really unexpected reason. The box says its too cold so it's quit. The pool water temp is 56 degrees, the box says it's 55 and the book says it won't generate chlorine at 50. That and the salt level discrepancy is too much. They called this morning and they're going to send me out a new entire unit. If that doesn't work better, I'll be asking for a full refund. I have some suspicions that the control box wasn't new--it had some scrapes on the window and the seal is all messed up. They assured it was truly not a used or refurbished unit, but I have my doubts.
I FINALLY got my SWG installed and running
- Thread starter timerguy
- Start date
Day 3 Approx 5 hrs @80%
Today's numbers only generated chlorine about half the day due to the Too cold water temp though It WASN'T cold at all it was at least 56 and is 60 now that the day is gone.
FC-- 8.5
Cc--0
PH--7.8
TA--70
CH--90
CYA--60
Salinity--4000 using K-1766 Test kit Stabilized at 4600 both average and instant from box
Water temp--60
Today's numbers only generated chlorine about half the day due to the Too cold water temp though It WASN'T cold at all it was at least 56 and is 60 now that the day is gone.
FC-- 8.5
Cc--0
PH--7.8
TA--70
CH--90
CYA--60
Salinity--4000 using K-1766 Test kit Stabilized at 4600 both average and instant from box
Water temp--60
Fyi the salt test and the SWG salt reading are both +/- 400ppm. So your results are within range and not unexpected.
Actually, I'm more concerned with the temp readings being off. Combined, either shutting down chlorine generation due to faulty readings is intolerable! They need to do something about making those readings adjustable to actusl test results. This morning it shut down again for cold. My water temp from my thermometer is 57. Even the box showed 57. It shouldn't be shutting down unless the temp is 50 or less. I just hope the new system they're sending me is more accurate. If it isn't, I'll be getting a different swcg from someone else. Now to be honest, it hasn't shut down because of high salt, just the high salt indicator was flashing, it wasn't solid.
How can it be more accurate? Its temp matched your temp. Are you sure it does not shut down below 60 degrees? I thought many SWG used that as the cut off. In reality it is likely a combination of the temp and salt level that results in the SWG shutting down.
For that matter, since the water is so cold, algae is unlikely. So why even bother with the SWG and why not just dose with bleach as needed until the water warms up.
Maybe the new unit will act differently, but I am not convinced there is anything wrong with the way the current one is behaving.
For that matter, since the water is so cold, algae is unlikely. So why even bother with the SWG and why not just dose with bleach as needed until the water warms up.
Maybe the new unit will act differently, but I am not convinced there is anything wrong with the way the current one is behaving.
Page 13 of the owners manual specifically says "The Si control will not produce chlorine at temperatures below 50º F." I really do suspect this unit was a non refurbished return. As to why I've installed a swg is because I've had a history of algae blooms in late March. Water temps have already been 60º and I'm going on vacation next week and want to not be concerned for my pool turning green by the time I get back,.
Well, technically yours is producing some chlorine at the temp > 50, just intermittently. 
I think this would be more telling if your salt was not also out of spec and throwing a trouble light.
EDIT: Just looked at the Hayward SWG manual and it lists the low temp cut off as 50 degrees as well. I don't think my water ever gets that cold
I think this would be more telling if your salt was not also out of spec and throwing a trouble light.
EDIT: Just looked at the Hayward SWG manual and it lists the low temp cut off as 50 degrees as well. I don't think my water ever gets that cold
Day 4-- I actually don't know how much generating time I had. I had several quick power outages and when I went out to check the control box just 15 minutes prior to when the cell was programmed to power down. The generating light was lit, but the cell amps was 0 indicating it really wasn't generating chlorine and there was no instant salt reading. Hope it comes back on tomorrow. We are going to have sub freezing temps in the morning which may substantially lower my water temp.
FC--9.0
Cc--0
PH--7.8
TA--70
CH--90
CYA--60
Salinity--Average 4600--Instant wasn't showing when I cycled thru the readings Still 4000 K-1766
Water temp--57
FC--9.0
Cc--0
PH--7.8
TA--70
CH--90
CYA--60
Salinity--Average 4600--Instant wasn't showing when I cycled thru the readings Still 4000 K-1766
Water temp--57
Aside from the pH and fc our numbers are identical.
I really hope it's just a bad unit.
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I really hope it's just a bad unit.
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I'm wondering about the water temp. Is the thermostat in the pool? I'm thinking as water goes up into the pump then through the above ground (open air) pipes, through the filter, that the temp would drop enough so when it reaches the swg it shuts down.
I'm speaking of experience when in the cub scouts, it is strongly recommended not to use an inflatable mattress when it's cold outside. I wonder if insulating the pipes would make a difference...
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I'm speaking of experience when in the cub scouts, it is strongly recommended not to use an inflatable mattress when it's cold outside. I wonder if insulating the pipes would make a difference...
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Any time the pump has been running for a while the water temperature in the pipes will be within a tiny fraction of a degree of the water temperature in the pool. However, when the pump stops the water temperature in the pipes can drift quite far from the water temperature in the pool.
This morning my pool thermometer shows 53 expected due to the cool temp this morning. The control box agrees, but it's too cold to generate chlorine. No other readings are shown. My new system gets here tomorrow.
My fingers are crossed for uou my friend. Maybe send discountsaltpool.com some pics of the unit to confirm that nothing is out of whack?
Btw, I also noticed in my control box I checked everything and looks to be new however like you mentioned in your post the inner seal that surrounds the inside door is messed up also I'm wondering if this is by Design
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Btw, I also noticed in my control box I checked everything and looks to be new however like you mentioned in your post the inner seal that surrounds the inside door is messed up also I'm wondering if this is by Design
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My brother lives in Mesa and he teases me all the time that his pool never gets below 75.Well, technically yours is producing some chlorine at the temp > 50, just intermittently.
I think this would be more telling if your salt was not also out of spec and throwing a trouble light.
EDIT: Just looked at the Hayward SWG manual and it lists the low temp cut off as 50 degrees as well. I don't think my water ever gets that cold
Not to nit pick, but for the sake of accuracy, the 1.5" reducer is just betore the cell, as well as after the flow switch. With the new system, I'm probably going to replumb due to minor leaks at the before cell reducer and replace the flow switch for a leak on it too.
Understood thanks for the clarification
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Chapin is just north of Columbia, SC. I actually live on Lake Murray just south of Chapin.
Another short generating day--About 4hrs @80%
FC-- 9.5
Cc--0
PH--7.8
TA--70
CH--90
CYA--60
Salinity--Average 4600 instant 4600 Though this morning, I saw 5300 K-1766 constant @ 4000
Water temp--57
FC-- 9.5
Cc--0
PH--7.8
TA--70
CH--90
CYA--60
Salinity--Average 4600 instant 4600 Though this morning, I saw 5300 K-1766 constant @ 4000
Water temp--57