don't understand taylor k-2006 chlorine test

[HopelessLee]

Hello Everyone!

This is my first post. I've been trying to understand pool maintenance for a few weeks ever since getting a house that has an in-ground pool. I ended up getting the Taylor k-2006 test kit since it seemed to be used here on the forums. I'm already stuck on the first test and need a hand!

I went through the chlorine test.
1. Fill tube to 10ml mark (also tried 25ml)
2. Add 1-2 scoops of R-0870 and the water turns a deep pink
3. Add R-0871 in drops (and swirl it) until color changes to colorless. Here i'm stuck.

It remains pink until about 15-20 drops at which point it starts becoming a mirky white. I was under the impression it should go back to clear. Am I doing something wrong?


Also, i haven't even touched the pool for 2 months (weather has been fairly cold in texas and I've had other more pressing repairs). Now i'm trying to figure this thing out. I did manage to proceed to ph and it seems to be at 7.8, but the chlorine test .... no clue. Any idea?

 

[bridgman]

IIRC it sometimes seems a bit murky when it's right on the edge of changing colour, but definitely ends up clear. Does adding a few more drops of R-0871 help ?

 

[JamesW]

As long as the color goes from pink to no color, then the test should be valid. Check the link in my signature to watch the video of the test.

 

[HopelessLee]

it takes about 15-20 drops before it comes white. That's with 10ml of water. According to the Taylor test kit 1 drop = .5ppm with 10ml. If white is the correct color that would mean my free chlorine is somewhere between 7.5-10ppm. That doesn't seem right since i haven't put any chlorine in it in 2 months and it seems way too high?

I actually kept adding drops after 20 but it never went to clear (probably stopped at 30-40). Stays white ( the color is white enough to where you can't see through the clear tube)

 

[JasonLion]

Do you have an OTO chlorine test? It doesn't come with the K-2006, but they are fairly common and inexpensive. The OTO test is really good at checking for chlorine/no chlorine, while the FAS-DPD test can be interfered with once in a long while.

Also, it would help to see a complete set of test results.

 

[HopelessLee]

Regarding the complete test results, about 2 months ago i took it to a pool shop who tested the water. I don't have the results on hand, but everything they tested for appeared to be in the acceptable range, except the pool hardness was too high. Not sure if that helps.

The only test kit that I have so far is the k-2006. I stopped at the chlorine and ph. If it can't even measure the chlorine i wouldn't know why to keep testing. (Ph did seem correct though at about 7.8).

I was going to hijack some water from an apartment's swimming pool later and see what the test kit says on it. I suppose at least it would tell me if it's an issue with the test kit or with the water.

 

[JasonLion]

I finally found the reference to the FAS-DPD test going cloudy white I was looking for. This happens quite rarely, generally when CH levels are high, and can be ignored, i.e. the test is still valid. You continue to add drops as long as there is a red/pink color to the sample. When it goes cloudy white you are done and the results are valid. It was also suggested that using a SpeedStir can often prevent it from going cloudy in the first place.

 

[SwimAustin]

I was going to hijack some water from an apartment's swimming pool later and see what the test kit says on it. I suppose at least it would tell me if it's an issue with the test kit or with the water.

You can test your fill water. You probably want to test it for CH and TA anyway. Don't test it for CYA. There's none and you'll just waste reagent.

 

[HopelessLee]

Ah ok. So maybe because the calcium hardness is too high it becomes cloudy? Great. I can test for that later. (I'm going to go on an apartment water heist anyways for verification). It's still weird it took 15-20 drops to change to white. I'm under the impression that 2-4ppm for chlorine is appropriate... and that it deteriorates... so after 2 months of not doing anything with the pool the chlorine level should be lower than 7.


By fill water you mean the water coming from the hose to fill the pool with? I did test it briefly and it didn't turn pink from the initial scoops of R-0870. I stopped there, but I may test it for calcium hardness now as well.

 

[Patrick_B]

Your FC level is dependent on your CYA level. That will determine what is appropriate.

Fill water is your hose water...whatever you fill the pool with.