Newbies in search of help and tips for getting started

[Supercal]

Hi. Complete newbie here in need of some help. My husband and I recently bought a house that came with a rather large (at least to me) above ground pool. The previous owners filled the pool for our home inspection, so water has been sitting in the pool since late January. In the last couple of days, the water has begun to turn green as the weather gets warmer. We just figured out the sand filter/pump, but that's as far as we have gotten. Basically, we have very little idea what we are doing and no manuals or anything were left behind for our edification. We ordered the TF100 test kit, but it hasn't arrived yet. What additional items/quantities should be purchase to be prepared for the upkeep of our pool? We'd like to purchase supplies to be ready soon. Any pointers/recommendations for getting started once we have the test kit are appreciated.

http://tftestkits.net/TF-100-Test-Kit-p4.html

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!

You are going to need bleach ... A lot of it ... to follow the SLAM process to clear up the pool. Until you have test results, everything else is unknown.

Have you read Pool School yet? That may help with your understanding the chemistry.

Congrats on the pool, while it is daunting at first, soon it will be easy to maintain and fun to enjoy.

 

[pwrstrk]

Welcome to TFP ! ?
You've already made a big step in the right direction with ordering the TF100 kit ! When the kit comes post up a full set of test results for us and we'll get you on your way to clearing your pool up.
In the meantime do some reading in pool school. Read the SLAM process and follow it to the T.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shocking
Here is another one to read.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/142-how-to-chlorinate-your-pool
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry

 

[Smykowski]

Welcome to the forum!

The guys above have you covered. The only thing I'd emphasize is read read read. There's a lot to learn, and it wilp take multiple times through pool school before it starts to stick. Spend your time waiting on the kit absorbing as much info as Pool School and the user threads in the forum have to offer.

 

[Casey]

Yep... read Pool School front and back several times and it will seem as clear as your pool!

Also, for any excess bleach you may have left over, keep it in a cool dark place so it doesn't degrade until you use it. I keep mine in the basement.

 

[Patrick_B]

Welcome to the forum. You are certainly off on the right foot. You can't manage a pool properly without knowing what's in the water.

Take Pool School in small doses and don't let all the info overwhelm you. The ABC's are fundamental, and always a good place to start.

 

[Supercal]

Thank you so much for all your replies. My test kits arrived today. Is it important to have the water circulating in the pool before I test?

Thanks!

 

[RobbieH]

Yes, you need to circulate the water before testing, if possible. I'm 99 44/100% sure you have no chlorine, but we need the rest of the numbers. If all they did is fill it, your CYA should be zero.

Go to Costco/WalMart/Kroger/etc. and STOCK UP on bleach. I wouldn't be afraid to tell you to bring home a dozen of the large bottles just to get started.

Make sure whatever bleach you buy is 8.25%, and is not "outdoor", "fresh scent", "no slosh", or anything like that. JUST PLAIN BLEACH.

 

[Supercal]

So, ran the pump for about 8 hours and then tested. pH is a bit over 8.2. What's the best way to lower it? I was reading about Muriatic acid...do I have to get that from a pool supply store?

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and yeah...no chlorine. I bought 10 big jugs (felt conspicuous) of 8.25% bleach. Thought for sure people thought I was cleaning a crime scene!

 

[woodyp]

You can buy muriatic acid at most hardware stores too. STUDY on how to SLAM the pool in pool school before you start.

 

[Supercal]

Great. I will definitely read up. I did a couple other tests.... TA was 180, CH 350

 

[Supercal]

In the SLAMming intructions, it says to run the filter 24/7. What type of running should it be doing? I'm assuming it should be on filter and not just recirculate??

 

[Supercal]

And, we have 0 chlorine and CYA was <20 (I could still see the dot when the cylinder was full.

 

[jcowart]

I guess I will jump in here also. First welcome to the forum. You came to the right spot for help and it looks like you are well on your way. To answer your last question about filter settings. It really depends on how your water looks and what kind of filter you have. You have a sand filter so you can run it in filter mode. With a green pool and carts or a DE filter, it's time consuming because they load up so fast. That's when recirculate would help. The MA does not have to come from the pool store. Just check the % on the bottle. My Lowes has MA in the pool section that's so called "safe". It's about half the strength as what's found in the paint isle and the full strength stuff is cheaper. Read read and read. You will learn a lot, taking care of a trouble free pool sounds hard but it is easy to learn if you take it in small chunks. It's about learning YOUR pools personality. They are all a little bit different. Learn to keep a log when you do your test. Then you will start to see a trend and you might not have to test as often.

 

[Patrick_B]

In the SLAMming intructions, it says to run the filter 24/7. What type of running should it be doing? I'm assuming it should be on filter and not just recirculate??

Yes, you should be filtering, and keeping an eye on the pressure. It will rise as Algae is killed and the caught in the filter.

Usual rule of thumb is to backwash once the pressure gets about 15-20% above running clean pressure. If you don't know what that is, take note of the pressure right after you backwash and use that as your guideline. Do you have equipment to vacuum with yet?

 

[Supercal]

The pool has a hose vacuum that attaches to the pump. We haven't quite figure out how to use it yet. Right now we are trying to get the pH down so we can SLAM it. After 2 doses of Muriatic acid, it's down to 7.8 and we just have it on recirculate. I'm going to test again in a few more hours to see if the pH has lowered any more.

 

[jblizzle]

If the pool is very green, then starting the SLAM on recirculate can reduce the frequency of cleaning the filter. Once the pool turns white when the algae is dead, then filter it out.

 

[pwrstrk]

Yep I agree you can start the SLAM on recirculate. It will save on back washing in the beginning. This method works well if you have a cart or DE filter as they will need a lot of back washing or cleaning if it's a cart. You have a sand filter which is a little more forgiving in that regard. It's your call if you choose to filter it right away or not. ?

 

[Supercal]

Ok...we go the pH where it needs to be to start SLAMming. But I'm confused about CYA. I've read and reread. Our CYA is below 20 and we have 0 chlorine. Do I need to ADD CYA to the water before I add bleach? Do I start without CYA and add it later if needed?

 

[pwrstrk]

I would add enough stabilizer to get your CYA level to 20. Use pool math to determine the dosage. The reason I'm saying to add stabilizer is I don't know what the SLAM level is for zero or below 20 CYA level.
Add the stabilizer via a sock or nylon stocking and hang it front of a return with the pump running until it's dissolved. Don't bother testing for it just assume it's there. Your SLAM level will be 10.