Deck for 30 ft diameter pool

So what I understand so far is that I have to use solid bare copper wire. Have to dig a trench all around the pool and run the wire in it. Wire have to be connected to the pool in 4 places. Trench need to be dig about 18-24" from the pool outside wall and 6" deep. I will use the ACE bondsafe plate placed in the skimmer body of the pool. How do I connect it to the pump? And where the wire ends? When I will build the deck I will add the stairs that you mount to your deck? Should I bond them also?
 
Okay guys. It's have been a while but we already started preparing the site for the pool. Here is my first problem. I know that I have to level each patio block that I will place under each pool upright. The problem is I have a clay and now it is very hard to make the whole area leveled. Can I pour the sand there make it level and then set up patio blocks on sand?
 
I wouldn't do that... Sand when wet has the ability to move.... I've got nothing but clay soil and yes its really hard work to dig, but being level is the most important thing you can do for your aboveground pool.... This is not something to be rushed, if you want your pool to last..... Could you get a bobcat into your yard? If not then you are going to have to do it the hard way, but the reward will be an awesome, level pool.... :)

Throwing a layer of this down will help immensely.... The 6mm is the best.....http://www.indiamart.com/cosmo-traders/blue-metal.html
 
I wouldn't do that... Sand when wet has the ability to move.... I've got nothing but clay soil and yes its really hard work to dig, but being level is the most important thing you can do for your aboveground pool.... This is not something to be rushed, if you want your pool to last..... Could you get a bobcat into your yard? If not then you are going to have to do it the hard way, but the reward will be an awesome, level pool.... :)

Throwing a layer of this down will help immensely.... The 6mm is the best.....http://www.indiamart.com/cosmo-traders/blue-metal.html
Bobca was here already and dig the ground. But he cannot level it flat because of that clay. Whenever he drives on it it deform. Like you said I was thinking of putting a crushed coral to level the area and then use sand. But it already sounds expensive to me. Also I was thinking of renting a tiller and maybe I will be able to get couple inches of the soil loose and then compact it.
Here is a quick picture of the digging area:
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There is about 2 ft slope on my yard.
 
Some more info on the soil. The guy leveled the site on Saturday and we have about 80 degrees outside that day. Once the soil was set on the side it hardened pretty quickly. But only small pieces. As you can see he was able to flatten as much as possible of the soil behind the pool but when it is wet he slides on it with the bobcat.
 
Hi again... :) I feel your pain, your dirt looks a little softer cause its wet obviously..... This is what hubby and I had to move, completely by hand as we had no way to get a bobcat in our tiny yard.... http://www.troublefreepool.com/thre...ove-ground-bestway-4-2m-slice-of-heaven/page2

Hard, red, dry Australian clay..... Needless to say we didn't have to level it, as we are using blue metal dust (crush and run) to level it as I am laying turf... :) We just had to remove haps of dirt due to cooch grass.... :-( That stuff sux..... Your build is going to be awesome.....
 
It is softer but once you step on it , it sticks to your shoes , tires or whatever you touch it with. That is why I was thinking to put some small rock bottom or like I said before crushed corals.
 
Just an update. On Saturday we got 80 degrees and last night we got snow. I love Chicago :)
So I did not have any chance to work on my pool site :-(
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Guys is this method of attaching beam to post is still allowable?
deckBEAM2GIF.gif
I want to use 2 - 1/2" bolts but it looks like now they told you to notch first and place the beams in the notch and then use bolts.
 

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One more question. What is best to do with the deck? Make it flush with top rail of the pool or finish it right under the top rail? Or maybe something else?
 
It can be done either way. If over top of the rail, you have to acct for liner change down the road unless you went with a beaded liner w/ track. If you go under, you have a lip around the pool from going under the top rail.
 
I do not want to go over the top rail just make the deck level with it. Top rail will be still accessible.
This picture shows below top rail:
under top rail.jpg
And that one flush with top rail:
flush deck.jpg
I think either way it won't make it harder for the linear replacement. The question is which way is better? Or safer?
 
We did ours like the the second picture, even with the pool. We used deck blocks when building the deck and because of the risk of heaving in the winter, we thought building even with pool would be the safest way. After 4 winters, we haven't had any problems.
 
Guys is this method of attaching beam to post is still allowable?
View attachment 28904
I want to use 2 - 1/2" bolts but it looks like now they told you to notch first and place the beams in the notch and then use bolts.

When I did my deck lag bolts were not allowed.I had to use galvanized through bolts 1/2" in dia. w/ galvanized washers and nuts. Basically the rest is just like your pic.
I had the option of notching the posts but I didn't have to.Also pay attention to how far your bld.dept. will allow you to cantilever.My bld. dept. would only allow me to cantilever 12" w/ 2x8 joists.(they like to play it very very safe)
 
Almost done with the deck. Here are some photos. I tried to take a photo of the new deck attached to existing one. Let me know what you think guys. I'm not planning to install fence on the path that goes from existing deck to pool deck. I run out of balusters last night. Will stop at Lowes after work and hopefully finish it today. The gate has Stanley Self-Closing Gate Hardware. So far works great.
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