Advice needed on replaster start up with very hard water...+-700ppm

[calstar]

First posting on this forum. In the next week or so my pool will be re-plastered and the water here in Santa Barbara CA is extremely hard, +- 700 ppm. I have a 14000 ig and a de filter. I have a TFTester 100 test kit on the way, it should be here before the re plaster so I can give more info/water readings soon. The plaster type is a quartz based sand plaster. Any advice/direction will be much appreciated. I've done a lot of reading on TFP and realize I was really neglecting my pool, ready to turn over a new leaf and try to become a water/maintenance geek!

thanks, Brian

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

If the CH is truly that high, I think you will need to be extra diligent about keeping your pH in the low 7s to avoid possible scaling issues. BUT ... you need to talk to the people who are installing the plaster to see what they recommend to not void any warranty.

Post back with what they are recommending and your test results when you have them.

 

[zea3]

I agree with jblizzle. Follow the instructions from the builder precisely so you don't void your warranty.

 

[Patrick_B]

Welcome to the forum Brian, and congrats taking on your pool the right way!

Your handle could have double meaning based on your CH.

I'll be joining you as that is what my well has. I'm looking at a nice 700-715-sh when I test.

 

[calstar]

Just got the tf100 kit last night and tested the tap water.....TA 190 and CH 200(how blue does the water need to be; just turning from red to a very light blue tint or more?). Below is a link to my local water quality test, scroll down to the bottom to see the PH, TA, etc. levels. Using my Blue Lab ppm tester it reads 700+-.

http://www.santabarbaraca.gov/civicax/filebank/blobdload.aspx?BlobID=33924

After an initial "pound off" the plaster(Skinner Pools/Plaster) is being hydraulically blasted as I enter this message. Skinner wants me to follow the Hamilton index and as soon as I figure out how to copy a pdf to this thread I'll post the start up instructions. Any input is appreciated.

thanks,

Brian

 

[jblizzle]

So your water is not as hard as you thought, although the TA is high (did you wipe the tip as the instructions say?)

You run all the test until the last drop causes no further color change. It is usually a light blue. You can use a few extra drops of the color reagent to get darker colors.

 

[duraleigh]

(how blue does the water need to be

That light blue you saw was fine. These tests want a color CHANGE.....not so much from what to what.....the CHANGE is the marker.

 

[calstar]

Thanks for the replies. Yes I did wipe the tip as per instructions.

That light blue you saw was fine. These tests want a color CHANGE.....not so much from what to what.....the CHANGE is the marker

Got it.

So nothing special regarding start up then, just follow the instructions given to me by the plasterer?

thanks, Brian

 

[Patrick_B]

There are different methods and theories on startups. Best bet is to make sure whatever you do, will not void any warranty he may have with regard to water chemistry problem he could hold against you.

That light blue you saw was fine. These tests want a color CHANGE.....not so much from what to what.....the CHANGE is the marker.

+1

Just make certain the change is complete. Take those last drops very slow, give them time, and when you are certain it wont change anymore add one more drop. Subtract that very last one from your results and then multiply.

 

[JamesW]

I won't say to ignore the the builder's instructions, but I don't think that the Hamilton Index is a good index to follow. In my opinion, if you were going to follow an index, then the Calcite Saturation Index would be the one to use.