Hi gang and thanks for all your help already.
I had an off the charts CYA reading when I first got my test kit, so I drained ~90% of the water ( down to about 2' ) and have since refilled
I shocked ( starting a SLAM i guess )
ran the pump for 24 hours and have just taken my first complete set of measurements.
FC 13
CC 0
PH 8
TA 190
CH 525 ( Phoenix has crazy hard water ) - pebble tec finish on pool
CYA 55**
I'm kinda suprised that the FC isnt higher but there was an algae bloom starting when I started draining, so that it appears a good deal of the chlorine has already been eaten up.
I'm a little surprised at the TA of 190 and CYA of 55. was hoping they would both be a little lower.
so high PH and high TA means I should be thinking about adding acid. My question is - from the PoolMath page it says to lower the PH to 7 with acid and gives me the strength and volume of acid to achieve that, but then it says to aerate.
How does one aerate a pool? EDIT This says that the waterfall feature gets the job done.
Lastly - with the CYA starting a little higher than I want it - should I just go ahead and do another half empty on the water while I am at it, or is the FC buffering in the hot Arizona sun going to actually be beneficial to me in keeping the FC levels stabilized?
I would prefer not to make too many independant changes all at once, so I figure wait for the FC to make a nice stable reading as it comes down from shock to level - then work in the acid and move the TA number down over time, then come back to the CYA problem with a half empty later in the year. if it's better to work harder faster and on more than one chemical level all at the same time, I'd appreciate hearing that cause my normal process would be fix one thing at a time and move on to the next most out of whack level on down the line till it's a trouble free pool.
as always thanks for all the wisdom that is shared around here.
Cardano.
**
I went ahead and ran the half strength test to confirm this is pretty close to the right value - I had run this test three times previously on the original water to determine it was north of 200 before water change out.
One other comment is that the TF-100 test kit instructions differ from the online long form test explanations in how vigourously the test mixture is supposed to be shaken - laminated card in the TF-100 kit says shake it - wait 30s - shake again. long explanation here says to shake it for 30s
I had an off the charts CYA reading when I first got my test kit, so I drained ~90% of the water ( down to about 2' ) and have since refilled
I shocked ( starting a SLAM i guess )
ran the pump for 24 hours and have just taken my first complete set of measurements.
FC 13
CC 0
PH 8
TA 190
CH 525 ( Phoenix has crazy hard water ) - pebble tec finish on pool
CYA 55**
I'm kinda suprised that the FC isnt higher but there was an algae bloom starting when I started draining, so that it appears a good deal of the chlorine has already been eaten up.
I'm a little surprised at the TA of 190 and CYA of 55. was hoping they would both be a little lower.
so high PH and high TA means I should be thinking about adding acid. My question is - from the PoolMath page it says to lower the PH to 7 with acid and gives me the strength and volume of acid to achieve that, but then it says to aerate.
How does one aerate a pool? EDIT This says that the waterfall feature gets the job done.
Lastly - with the CYA starting a little higher than I want it - should I just go ahead and do another half empty on the water while I am at it, or is the FC buffering in the hot Arizona sun going to actually be beneficial to me in keeping the FC levels stabilized?
I would prefer not to make too many independant changes all at once, so I figure wait for the FC to make a nice stable reading as it comes down from shock to level - then work in the acid and move the TA number down over time, then come back to the CYA problem with a half empty later in the year. if it's better to work harder faster and on more than one chemical level all at the same time, I'd appreciate hearing that cause my normal process would be fix one thing at a time and move on to the next most out of whack level on down the line till it's a trouble free pool.
as always thanks for all the wisdom that is shared around here.
Cardano.
**
I went ahead and ran the half strength test to confirm this is pretty close to the right value - I had run this test three times previously on the original water to determine it was north of 200 before water change out.
One other comment is that the TF-100 test kit instructions differ from the online long form test explanations in how vigourously the test mixture is supposed to be shaken - laminated card in the TF-100 kit says shake it - wait 30s - shake again. long explanation here says to shake it for 30s
