Replace heating element only or whole heater assembly?

Mar 7, 2014
4
Louisiana
Our hot tub has stopped (its a 220v 60amp setup; 2 big pumps) heating. I figure this is the heating element.

In all my previous workings with water/pipes etc.. everything water related always falls apart and needs full replacement. Is that going to "likely" be the case here or could we get away with just the heating element itself?

Photos:
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Thanks James.

Are the mount points industry standard positioning for the heating element? IE: Can I just get any one that matches the electrical properties?

I've watched videos and it seems I don't see them shutting off the water before this repair. Do the pumps block water flow when they are off or do I need to drain the tub before the repair?

Should I buy sealant with the heating element too or is it compression seal? If so, what type of sealant?
 
You might want to check the breakers first. The heater might be on a separate breaker from the rest of the tub.

The element is specific to that heater. It is in the stainless steel tube. There are plunger valves to shut off the water, or you can drain the tub. The manual should have a description of the proper element and it's associated part number.

You can see the two black wires going to the element. You can check to see if they are getting 240 volts. If it is getting 240 volts, then you can check the amp draw. It should draw about 23 amps if the element is working. If there is voltage but not current, then the element is bad.

Also, you can remove the wires and check for continuity (ohms) in the element.

Important safety note: Don't do anything that you are not sure you can do safely. You could potentially get injured or create an unsafe situation if everything is not done correctly.
 
I just watched a video that says that usually the heating element itself is very rarely the cause of the tub not heating anymore.

He said a water sensor was more likely the cause of heating failure and I DO NOT have a GFCI tripping off at all.

Does that sound right? Should I be looking into the pressure switch or a water sensor instead? I ohm'ed the heating element and it holds at 11.3 ohms steady.
 
From 30 years of experience on spas if the gfci is not tripping it probably isn't the element. Most likely it is the pressure swicth failing to contact. The manufacturer of your element will tell you you can't ohm the element in water. If the element is open and bad water will finish the circuit and it will test ok. Been there done that learned that lesson.
 
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