Hayward Aqua Plus PLPLUS Control

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coreyadam

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Jan 28, 2014
130
Fredericton, NB, Canada
Hi Guys...After weeks of research and thought, I've decided to put in a 18x36 kidney shaped, 22000 Gallon vinyl liner inground pool this spring. It's my first pool, so I realize I've got alot to learn. I'm super excited and cant' wait to get started. I've decided to go with a SWCG. Where I'm getting the pool kit from has a good deal if I buy the full Hayward Aqua Plus kit (PLPLUS) with the Chlorinator, Cell and Control. I've done alot of research on the unit, and read the full manual (a bit complicated is an understatement!). My question is...Is it worth the headache to use this automated system? I will be connecting a 1.5 HP Hayward Super Pump (single speed), one Hayward ColorLogic LED light, and a Summit SUM5 heat pump. It's just the pool, no spa, no waterfall, ect... It seems like it will be a bit more work for the electrician to install, if not a lot more work...(therefore more money out of my pocket.) I like the idea of having everything connected and monitered and controlled by one system, but I'm just not sure if it's worth it for the relatively simple system I will have. Do you guys (with experience) think it's more trouble than it's worth?
On a related note, the company I'm buying the equipment from says I'm better to go with a bigger salt cell...(my pool is 22000 gallons...if I purchase a different system I could use a 25000G salt cell instead of the 40000 g cell...but they're telling me I'm better off with the bigger one anyway.)
I appreciate any feedback and advice!
Thanks
 
I think that it's worthwhile. The cost should only be a little bit more than the cost of the chlorinator and timers. If you're getting a booster pump, it will control that vs another timer. Wiring shouldn't be much more than wiring the chlorinator and timers.

The bigger cell is a better choice because it should last longer. Your cost per unit of chlorine should be lower over the long term.
 
A booster pump would be used for some pressure side automatic cleaners. An automatic cleaner is usually a good choice. There are other cleaner options. Therefore, you might not need a booster pump.
 
JamesW said:
A booster pump would be used for some pressure side automatic cleaners. An automatic cleaner is usually a good choice. There are other cleaner options. Therefore, you might not need a booster pump.
Click to expand...

Thanks....I think for now we are gonna go with the suction cleaner that I'm getting with my kit....I may decide I need something better when the time comes...I'll see how it goes...
 
Ok...another question about the Aqua Plus control system. In the manual it says to get my water chemistry as close as possible before actually using the system....so I'm assuming I'll have to add a whole lot of salt and some other chemicals when I first put the water in the pool. What I'm scratching my head about is this.... How do I circulate the water to "mix up" and dissolve the salt and chemicals without using the system? Do I just turn the pump on alone and let the water circulate through everything without turning anything else on?
 
The only thing you don't want to use right away is the salt chlorinator (and possibly the heater in some limited cases). However, you should be able to get your water in balance fairly quickly. A few days in most cases.

Getting a good test kit is very important. An FAS-DPD complete kit is the best investment you can make. The TF Testkits link in my signature is a good place to find the testing supplies you need.

If you can test the water you intend to use to fill the pool, then we can advise you about what to expect regarding balancing the pool. We would need to know pH, TA (Total Alkalinity), CH (Calcium Hardness) and any metals, such as iron, copper, manganese etc.

Regarding a pressure side cleaner, I would suggest having the plumbing run for one so that you can install one in the future, if you choose. Until then, it can be used as an extra return.

I would also suggest having the wiring from the breaker to the Automation box be sufficient to add extras such as a booster pump if you want one in the future.

Regarding the main pool pump, I would suggest a smaller pump, or a two-speed pump or a variable speed pump, especially if your electrical cost is high.
 
I have the Hayward Aqua Logic Control Panel and love it. Not only does it automate all my pool functions (pump, SWG, Heater, lights etc) but its an actual fuse box that all my equipment wires into. It makes it much easier for me at opening and closing time to have one source to go to for all the feeds. You will be able to keep the SWG off I the beginning and just use the control panel to turn on the pump to circulate water until you have enough salt added to get started.
 

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JamesW said:
The only thing you don't want to use right away is the salt chlorinator (and possibly the heater in some limited cases). However, you should be able to get your water in balance fairly quickly. A few days in most cases.

Getting a good test kit is very important. An FAS-DPD complete kit is the best investment you can make. The TF Testkits link in my signature is a good place to find the testing supplies you need.

Thanks for the advice! Just to confirm...it's ok for the water to flow through all the equipment (SWG and Heater)...but I just don't turn it on until the water is balanced? I'll definitely look into getting a test kit and test the water beforehand...it will be nice to know what I'm gonna need before the water is actually in the pool!
I appreciate all the feedback!....Can't wait to get started!
Click to expand...
 
JamesW said:
Getting a good test kit is very important. An FAS-DPD complete kit is the best investment you can make. The TF Testkits link in my signature is a good place to find the testing supplies you need.

If you can test the water you intend to use to fill the pool, then we can advise you about what to expect regarding balancing the pool. We would need to know pH, TA (Total Alkalinity), CH (Calcium Hardness) and any metals, such as iron, copper, manganese etc.
Click to expand...

So, I'd like to get a test kit...you'll have to excuse my ignorance but I don't know what a FAS-DPD complete kit is. I used the link in your signature to check out the test kits there...I'm assuming the smart thing for me (where I'm just starting) would be to get the TF-100 Test kit and add some salt test strips. Is it really that much better of a kit?...I can add a test kit from the company I'm buying the pool from (nationalpoolwholesalers.com) for a fraction of the cost.
Also, I was going to add a start up chemical kit when I order my pool kit... It includes 1pt Algitec Plus (Copper Algaecide 7%), 1qt Pool Water Clarifier, 3lb Quick Shock (Di-Chlor, 35%), and 2.5lb pH Increase. Does this sound like a good start?...What else do you think I will need for start up in general? (I realize you can give a more specific instruction once I get my water tested)
 
Yes it is that much better of a kit ... and the TF-100 is the best deal.

No I would not get the startup kit. You do not need any of that stuff. Just get some stabilizer and bleach. Any other adjustments are based on test results.
 
Once you have the kit, you can test your tap / fill water for CH, pH, and TA to see roughly what you are going to be dealing with. Although low CH does not matter for a vinyl pool, so there will be no reason to ever intentionally raise that. CYA will be zero in tap water and the FC/CC in the tap may be present, but will quickly go away.

BTW, not to up-sell, but the SpeedStir really does make the testing faster, easier, and more accurate ... no one has ever regretted buying it that we have seen.
 
jblizzle said:
Once you have the kit, you can test your tap / fill water for CH, pH, and TA to see roughly what you are going to be dealing with. Although low CH does not matter for a vinyl pool, so there will be no reason to ever intentionally raise that. CYA will be zero in tap water and the FC/CC in the tap may be present, but will quickly go away.

BTW, not to up-sell, but the SpeedStir really does make the testing faster, easier, and more accurate ... no one has ever regretted buying it that we have seen.
Click to expand...

All great info! I really appreciate it! I'll look into the speedstir as well...I saw it on there...just didn't think it'd be necesarry...lol. But I want everything to be as easy as possible...so that might just be worth my while!
 
Quick related question ; does anyone know the difference between the Hayward Prologic Controllers and the Hayward Aquaplus Controllers? I'm not sure I could really tell the difference based on the descriptions. I'm planning on using a T-15 cell and a goldline box but thought about trying to upgrade to real automation and wondered the difference. Thanks!
 
Blueskies21 said:
Quick related question ; does anyone know the difference between the Hayward Prologic Controllers and the Hayward Aquaplus Controllers? I'm not sure I could really tell the difference based on the descriptions. I'm planning on using a T-15 cell and a goldline box but thought about trying to upgrade to real automation and wondered the difference. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Great question...one I've been researching as well. Where I'm buying my equipment the AquaPlus comes with the control and the salt cell together in package...and from what I can see, the Prologic Control needs to have the salt cell purchased seperately. That's one of the reasons I decided to go with the Aqua Plus. I think (and hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong) that only the Prologic can have the ColorLogic Network Module added in order to control custom light shows and colors with the Color Logic Lights. I hope I'm wrong on that...since I think that's a cool option to have... From what I read in the AquaPlus brochure, I would only be able to use a dimmer to adjust the brightness of the light.... I hope someone can clear this up for us.
 
The Aquaplus controller is identical to the Prologic P4, but the former comes with the SWG cell.

The Prologic PS4 adds a 4th valve controller and has some added options like macro buttons. I did not find the added cost worth it.

I think, but not sure, that you need the PS version to have added light control as well.
 
jblizzle said:
I think, but not sure, that you need the PS version to have added light control as well.
Click to expand...

I've read both the manuals for the Prologic and the AquaPlus. In the Prologic manual it specifically states that you can add the ColorLogic Network Module to control custom light shows and colors with the Color Logic Lights. However, unless I somehow missed it, it did not say anything about that option with the AquaPlus Control system... I may contact Hayward about it to be sure.
 

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