Installer for SWG Adjusted Valve for Water Going to Heater? Reduced PSI

[Nick's Pool]

Not really sure I needed to send a picture, but since I'm new and still learning, valves is not something I've spent much time on. Just perfecting the water chemistry for now. Anyway, I had a new SWG installed a few weeks ago and I'm sure the guy was trying to be helpful, but I just want to understand why he did it and if he's correct for adjusting. He said something like I don't need that much water going to the heater? At least, that's what I think he said, hence, why I'm sending the picture When he made the adjustment, the PSI on my filter gauge went from 12 (that's the number when cleaned or new) down to 8. Can you guys explain why he did that? Would that affect the amount of chlorine the SWG produces (less, more or doesn't matter)? Should I change it back? I think the valve was in the middle before.

Thanks for your help.

 

[jblizzle]

That would not affect the amount of chlorine the SWG produces ... The SWG makes the same amount regardless of flow rate.

What he did was to allow some of the water to bypass the heater, which reduced the head loss (and pressure) and likely increased the total flow rate. Many heaters have built-in bypasses, so there would be no reason to need to do this. Heaters are more efficient by adding a little heat to a lot of water, than a lot of heat to a little water. So your heating might be a little more efficient with all the water going through the heater. This is a gas/electric heater we are talking about and not solar right?

 

[Nick's Pool]

Yes, it's electric. It's an AquaCal Model SQ-110 102,500 BTU's.

So, do you think I should put it back in the middle to generate 12 psi's again or leave it?

Thanks Jason.

 

[jblizzle]

If you are not running the heater, then I would leave it at the lower pressure and higher flow rates ... that heater must have been adding a lot of restriction to raise the pressure by 4psi.( Out of curiosity, what is the pressure if you close off the heater completely? I would guess around 9psi)

Even if you are using the heater, it probably does not make much difference in heating the way it is now.

With the higher flow, you may be able to shorten your pump run time (and correspondingly bump up the FC output %)

 

[Nick's Pool]

I can try that Jason. May I ask you how do I close the heater completely? Right now, the valve is at 8 o'clock. Would I set it to 9 o'clock or 6 o'clock.

The reason I asked about the chlorine output is because initially, before he changed anything, I was dialing in my chlorine to generate 5 ppm. I was running my pump time for 8 hours which he also said was unneccesary. So I changed it to 6 hours. It runs from 11-2 and 6-9. Since the changes, I've I noticed my chlorine dropping so I would bump up the purifier but it didn't increase so now it's down to 2 ppm. I just brought it back up to 5 ppm using bleach. I know, I know, I didn't have to do that but the manual on the SWG says to get the chemicals balanced and then start with 50% clorine output. Don't worry, I don't have any CC. I have just been trying to dial in my chlorine output so it stays at 5 ppm. I don't want 2-3 like the manual says. I want like TFP says. If CYA is 70 with SWG, then my target should be 5 ppm. Anyway, sorry for the long explanation, but I don't know if I need to put the pump time back at 8 hours or if I need to run it at 100% or if I need to put the valve back so it goes to 12 psi?

And prior to changing my run time Jason, I was reducing the chlorine % to like 10-20% because it was generating too much chlorine. So initially, I thought, this guy is right. Reduce the pump time. But I feel like since doing that, now I'm not getting as much chlorine. I don't know. I'm probably not making sense but hopefully you understand.

I am quessing the heater valve has nothing to do with anything and I should leave it where it is because pretty soon, the heater will not even be in use since I live in FL. What I'm thinking is I should reduce my pump time but play with the purifier settings in order to achieve that 4-5 ppm?

 

[jblizzle]

Opposite the handle is says "CLOSED" that shows you what is closed. So you would want the handle pointed to the right to close the heater. Right now you have both of the outlets partially closed ... this is why I always recommend the common pipe (supply in your case) be the center port on the valve. But, may not make much difference.

Adding bleach was a GOOD idea The SWG will not raise it quickly.

When you dropped from 8 hours to 6 hours, you also lowered the amount of FC the SWG was making by 25% so that is why is dropped. Although it sounds like it dropped more than I would have expected.

6 hours may still be more than you need to be running, but if you shorten it, remember you have to increase the SWG % output. BTW, that output % is a duty cycle, so how much the SWG is on vs off. So the flow rate, pressure, etc, have no impact on the SWG output, just the % setting and the pump run time do.

 

[Nick's Pool]

I am glad I got the thumbs up on adding the bleach! Sweet!!

OK, you're going to think I'm retarded so I appologize. I went outside and I see on the valve opposite the handle "off". I tried turning it like you said to the right so "off" is pointing towards the heater, but it doesn't want to turn that way. Am I not applying enough force? I didn't want to break anything. What am I doing wrong? Do I losen up that screw in the middle? I tried that but didn't seen to make a difference.

 

[jblizzle]

Can you move it either direction? As long as the screw is not very tight, it should turn and not require too much effort. Some valves have stops on them, but I do not think that Jandy should in that position.

 

[Nick's Pool]

Hi Jason. I went outside again and this time, I was able to move it after using a little more force no problem. So, to answer your question when I turn the heater off, it only went down to 7 from 8. Not sure if that surprises you or not? Not a big change. Atleast, not as dramatic as from 12 to 8 when the guy moved that valve.

 

[jblizzle]

Actually, I am surprised that the pressure dropped with the heater fully closed. I would have thought that with both paths open, the restriction would be less and thus the pressure would be lowest with both open. Then a little higher with the heater totally blocked and then higher yet is everything went through the heater.

I think this confirms my suspicion that having the valve in the position in your picture does indeed cause a restriction in the valve that would not be present if the valve body was in a different orientation with the common pipe on the middle port.

So, I would leave the valve how you have it pictured and call it good enough.

 

[Nick's Pool]

I didn't understand a thing until your last sentence LOL!! Sounds good! I will leave it as is. Thanks Jason. I'll look on your site and study how valves, pipes and filters work since I feel like a pro now with the water chemistry and using the Taylor K-2006.