stopped by the pool store today to pick up some stuff and popped the question of "How do I determine the proper rpm of my pool pump"...The guy told me "Low if it is a variable and let it run longer". When I explained it was a pentair and you could set it in increments of 10 rpm's he told me those are terrible and I should buy a Hayword...So im slightly confused. I have it set to 2500.....No idea how many times im turning my pool and if that is considered low, medium, or high. I know its at least enough to keep the pool clean since I havn't had any problems in the past (battling algae right now due to pool equipment being turned off for almost a week), but I don't want to be running it significantly more than I have too. My electric bill is consistently 500 dollars in the summer. Had it set 8 hrs in the summer and 5 in the winter (Southern California weather). Anyway, that was the setting it was on when I moved in a year ago so I just lived with it..now that i've found this site and trying to learn more, I'm trying to figure it out. Pool is a roughly 15k gallons/salt water. I just read the section on how to measure your pool size so I'm going to work on that since these are the same people who read my layout plans from the builders in 30 secs. and gave me the size.
What speed to set pentair?
- Thread starter stootz97
- Start date
There is an article in Pool School about determining pump run time ... check it out. 1000rpm is the most efficient speed for your pump. Likely the pool store I'd just a Hayward rep ... Pentair makes good stuff, maybe even a little higher end for some things.
Are you following the SLAM process to clear the algae using your FAS-DPD test kit? It is guaranteed to work.
Note the forum will be offline all weekend, so read quickly
Are you following the SLAM process to clear the algae using your FAS-DPD test kit? It is guaranteed to work.
Note the forum will be offline all weekend, so read quickly
I'll look harder for the article. Browsed for a bit and gave up. I read the SLAM article a dozen times before i started it and jumped the gun..I ordered the test required through Amazon via the 2-day shipping.....then got notified after I started that was going to be on back order 
So I'm in the blind. Going to start over once it comes in.
So I'm in the blind. Going to start over once it comes in.
It is in the How To section of Pool School:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/152-determine-pump-run-time
might be a good investment to buy a GPM meter like the Flovis. That would take the guess work out of it and allow you to fine tune your setup. TFT sells them http://tftestkits.net/FloVis-Flow-Meter-Full-Meter-p74.html
- May 3, 2007
- 16,880
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Studies have shown that most pools need less than 4 hours of run time per day and that is completely independent of flow rate and pool size so knowledge of flow rate is not really necessary. Run time just depends on a few factors:
Method of chlorination: SWGs may require a minimum run time but manual dosing has no minimum except for distribution (see next).
Chlorine Distribution: Studies have shown only about 30 min is required for proper distribution. Having two separate run times can help with this so there are not any dead spots over 24 hours.
Cleaning: Skimming and Cleaners (suction & pressure) rely on pump run time but there is really no minimum for this only what the pool owner wants in terms of cleanliness. Skimming is reduced some with flow rate but there is no magic number. So if you don't care that there are a few leaves on the floor or floating on the surface, there is really no minimum.
I have a 20k pool and have 4 hours of run time (1 high speed, 3 low speed) in the summer and two hours (1 + 1) in the winter and my pool has never had an algae bloom and both the surface and bottom are more than clean enough for me. In fact, if I had a bigger SWG, I might be able to shave some summer time off that number.
Method of chlorination: SWGs may require a minimum run time but manual dosing has no minimum except for distribution (see next).
Chlorine Distribution: Studies have shown only about 30 min is required for proper distribution. Having two separate run times can help with this so there are not any dead spots over 24 hours.
Cleaning: Skimming and Cleaners (suction & pressure) rely on pump run time but there is really no minimum for this only what the pool owner wants in terms of cleanliness. Skimming is reduced some with flow rate but there is no magic number. So if you don't care that there are a few leaves on the floor or floating on the surface, there is really no minimum.
I have a 20k pool and have 4 hours of run time (1 high speed, 3 low speed) in the summer and two hours (1 + 1) in the winter and my pool has never had an algae bloom and both the surface and bottom are more than clean enough for me. In fact, if I had a bigger SWG, I might be able to shave some summer time off that number.
I bumped it down from 2500 to 2000 and I ended up getting the low flow light on my SWG....everything i'm ready/watching is saying that I should be able to run at 1200 for an extended time. Maybe need to clean the filters and the SWG and try bumping it down again.
If it is backordered, I would recommend canceling and getting the tf-100. It is generally a better value and Dave has fast shipping.I ordered the test required through Amazon via the 2-day shipping.....then got notified after I started that was going to be on back order
What pressure is your gauge reading when you are running at 2500 and what did it read when the filter was clean?
just cleaned all four filters for quit some time and got them looking like new. It was reading 14 psi, now it's down to 10 psi. Went down from 2500 in increments of 100. I'm at 2000 right now and it's still showing good. Going to leave it there for an hour and see what happens since i've heard of others saying it goes red after 45 min. Only problem is the some of the water coming back to the pool is from a jacuzzi that is raised about a foot above the pool. It just running down the sides now where as when the pump was higher it was an actual little waterfall. Will this effect my jacuzzi circulation to a point where i need to be concerned?
Can't you divert more to the spa then?
Also note we recommend cleaning the filter when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure. So for you that is about 12psi which is likely why your flow was so low.
Also note we recommend cleaning the filter when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure. So for you that is about 12psi which is likely why your flow was so low.
gotcha. Now that you mention it, maybe I can....not sure. Only thing i can think of is lowering the amount water pressure that the pool vacuum uses????? There is a manual handle to add/lessen pressure..Only adjustable lever I see on the system.
guess I should of tried it before I posted. Bumped pressure down and flows out good. Vacuum is barely moving along but it is moving...I always have it hooked up and running at a good speed. Is this necessary? Or should I just keep a good flow coming from the spa portion and flip the vacuum on once a week or so? OR, should I leave it at a 50/50 rate like i just turned it to now? The vacuum flow lever has been on 3/4 flow since I moved in last year so i just left it there.
Thanks for the advise on the filter. I'll make sure I pay better attention to it. When I was thinking about hiring a pool guy he told me he charged extra every 6 months to clean filters...so I've just been going by that not pressure.