black spots in pool

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My guess is that it was puttied because it leaked. If so, removing that putty will reintroduce the leak.

On my filter, the air relief valve is orderable by individual parts so you may be able to identify the leaking or cracked part and simply replace it.
 
I understand that they put the putty in there because it was leaking. Apparently they didn't know that they could get a replacement part and fix it so my question is can I get the putty out of there or do you think I am going to break the lid trying to do that?
 
It is already posted near the beginning of my thread . There's a pic of my equipment pad and the top of the filter where that white spot is, that's where the air relief valve used to be. From the inside of the lid I see no cracks where the valve is supposed to screw in. I can't tell if there are any on the outside because the putty is covering it, but it seems like they would be visible on the inside if there were any.
 
I can't tell if there are any on the outside because the putty is covering it, but it seems like they would be visible on the inside if there were any.
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Yeah, I tend to agree. Since you can see it from the inside, did it appear to be threaded or a smooth opening? Can you tell what the white stuff is? Is it hard like a rock or a bit flexible?

You can perhaps look online at a parts diagram of that filter and see how the relief valve attaches.

Certainly what you want to do (remove the white stuff) can be done but it may be quite a bit of work if it's epoxy and that opening is threaded.
 
I don't guess it is threaded from looking at this picture of it. My pump is running right now and I've already taken the lid off the filter once today to put a new pressure gauge on. Too busy right now to go fool with it again. I think k it is an epoxy because it does seem quite hard.
On a different note we have an in floor vacuum system and until yesterday none of the sweepers had ever popped up. yesterday two of them popped up and began working Today my husband messed with the two in the shallow end for a little bit and they popped up. The one in the deep end I have yet to see pop up. When it gets a little warmer we will try to get that one working like it should. We have no idea how they began working all of a sudden. I did replace the filter cartridge and my flow increased EVERYWHERE. Could that have something to do with it?
I still don't know how everything inside the in floor unit at the pad works nor the Jandy 3 way valves so I don't want to mess with it and screw it up since I'm not well educated on it.
Thanks again for all the assistance so far.
 

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Now after blowing the picture of the valve up I see that it does appear to have threads. I have no idea how to go about getting that Crud off and out of there. I guess I'll start by trying to gently (if there is any such thing) chisel it off the outside, then try to cut out the "tail" of it that goes down inside the hole on the interior. Wish me luck. A new lid assembly is about $150. There is so much other stuff that I have to spend big money on that I'm trying to "get by" with this pool. The things you don't know or can't see until your living in a house are phenomenal and overwhelming! So much for having an inspection. Sorry that's for another forum. :cry:
 
ronipooh said:
...We have no idea how they began working all of a sudden. I did replace the filter cartridge and my flow increased EVERYWHERE. Could that have something to do with it? ...
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Yep, the increased flow popped them up.

(I don't have answers to your other questions. At some point, you're going to want to drain and replace water to lower your CYA if that pool store reading is correct. Have you gotten your hands on one of the recommended test kits? The HTH 6-way will at least get you a good CYA test.)
 
No danacc I don't have a recommended test kit yet. Leslies is on my way to work so I am going to start taking my water samples to them until I can afford the test kit. I'm trying to get a weekend off so I can have them come out and do pool school. I have no idea how my Jandy valves work, how the in floor vacuum works or anything. Right now I'm just trying to maintain chlorine levels, PH and calcium hardness to not further destroy my plaster.
I really appreciate the help I've received from members but I don't want to become a pain in the neck. I've read lots of topics and I know a little more now than I did when I bought this house.
I've reread lots of the stuff to get a better understanding of chemistry.
I've looked for discussions on the valves but haven't found one that has turned the light on in my head. Obviously in different positions different things are on and off, that much I understand but what goes to what I don't know and I don't have any idea how this thing was plumbed or how to figure it out. I'm a fairly smart chick but plumbing is not my game. Give me an engine, I can tear it apart and put it back together, give me a hammer and nails and I will build something, give me pipe and diagrams...., LOST
 

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ronipooh said:
No danacc I don't have a recommended test kit yet. Leslies is on my way to work so I am going to start taking my water samples to them until I can afford the test kit.
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Just a word of warning so frustration doesn't set in....the info you get from Leslie's will be very, very different from the info you get here. Trying to successfully follow both will be difficult if not impossible.

As for plumbing, it won't take long. If you understand an internal combustion engine, you technically understand plumbing (sort of) already, and pool plumbing is many, many orders of magnitude simpler than that.
 
Thanks pwrstrk and smykowski. There are pictures of my pad earlier in this post. I'll take some more today and post them. I'm only going to Leslie's for wa ter testing until I get my own and for some parts I need. I know I can order parts online but the return process if you get the wrong thing is much more diffcult and time consuming.
I already know that I can't listen to Leslie's and TFP. I told my husband that already. They are in the business to sell chemicals and other supplies, that's jow yhey feed their families. I don't fault them for it, I just know better thanks to you friendly folks!
 
These are the pics I took this morning of my setup. If you need different angles let me know. Thanks everybody! :lol:
 

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Just left Leslies. 'your phosphates are off the chart let me sell you some phos free" :blah: I told them "No thanks, I got this." My numbers are as follows: Water temp 67
FC 5
Tc 5
CH 200
CYA 60
TA 100
PH 7.4
COPPER 0
IRON 0
TDS 600
Phospates 2500
I added some water this morning but I don't think enough to drop my CYA 40.
What are your thoughts on this? I quit using trichlor a few weeks back and my pool does get about 4 hours a day of direct sunlight.
They tried to convince me I need their phosfree but I stood my ground. They said I better get the trees or shrubs away from my pool. I have 3 potted plants out there and an oak and some palm trees about 26 feet from the ENCLOSURE. What the heck do plants have to do with it?
 
ronipooh said:
What the heck do plants have to do with it?
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Who knows and who cares. As long as you keep your FC appropriate for your CYA level, phosphates don't matter. I have no idea what the phosphate levels are in my pool, and I don't plan on ever finding out. Good on you for standing your ground and not buying anything.

ronipooh said:
What are your thoughts on this?
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Without a good test kit, this is a hard question to answer, and here's why: pool stores are notoriously unreliable in their CYA tests. Also, I'm guessing their FC test maxes out at 5, so if it's actually higher, you have no idea how much higher.

FC of 5 with CYA of 40 is fine. 4 hours per day is not a lot of sunlight, but CYA of 60 is ok too. However, if you run a CYA of 60, 5 is the absolute MINIMUM you want for your FC. Ideally you'd want to run it around 7-8, dose at 6, and never, ever let it get below 5. (Are you starting to see why we harp on getting the good kit?)

Are you asking whether to use 40 or 60? Most of that decision would be made after monitoring your FC drop per day over the course of a week or three.
 
ronipooh said:
Smykowski previously my CYA was 100 now its 60. I doubt a week and a small amont ( 1 inch ) of water added woukd DROP the level by 40 as reported in these test results.
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I see, now I understand.

In that case, I agree with what blizzle said.

If you really want to test the pool store results, wait a couple days and get it tested again. See what they get for CYA a third time.
 
So I posted several pics of my equipment pad. Anyone have time to explain to me what's what? I'm afraid to turn valves. I can't turn valves , go try to see where water is circulating and where it isn't and risk burning up my pump because it goes dry and I can't get to it fast enough. I move slow getting up and down.
 

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