New DIY Pool Guy in Lithia FL (Fishhawk Ranch)

Nov 9, 2013
1
Hi Folks, what a great service this forum is for folks that like to do things on their own within their limits. I've been in our home since 2005. I have a custom shaped inground pool that has a waterfall and two sconces. I used to have solar heating panels until they leaked, and I the them away. At that time, I had a 1-1/2 HP Sta-Rite pump that I think burned up because it was too much pump for my system minus the solar panels?? Anyway, I've had a nightmare installing my new Pentair WhisperFlo 3/4 HP pump. I'm a pretty handy repair guy...what can be so difficult about cutting some PVC pipes, unscrewing a few bolts, removing 3 wires plus the earth ground and doing it all in reverse...right! Did all of that and the motor wouldn't start...not a peep. Took it to Pinch-A-Penny and they confirmed it was a bad motor. To Pentair's credit, they honored my assessment and sent out a new motor with very few questions asked. I bought it from one of the Ebay big pool sellers. Once I hooked her up, presto...she worked yet my top male PVC connector leaked a bit. I sprayed some of that Flex Seal (twice) and she still squirts. I may try some of that Mighty Fix It Tape or Mighty Putty before I have to cut and reinstall PVC pipe/fitting again. ArghHHHH!!! If anyone has some suggestions here, would love to hear them.

I ran the pump for about an hour today and it was hot to the touch on the back end. I have 2" pipes coming in to the pump and 1-1/2" pipes for the return. The pool pump spects are:

The Pentair WhisperFlo 011771 WF-23 high performance in-ground pool pump sets the industry standard for pool pumps. Tech specs for WF-23: .75HP, 115/230V, 1-speed, up rated, 10.8/5.4 full load amps, 2" x 2" port size (NTP). I installed it with 230V like my old pump, switch set to 230V. A few blogs I've read said that pumps tend to run hot at around 130-140 degrees.

My last pump did not get nearly this hot. Do you think I'm okay?

Also, since I'm not an electrician, can I...or...should I run it at 115 volts, would that reduce my power bill or does that matter? Could that be causing the heat problem, running it at 230V vs 115V?

I appreciate any responses in advance. Thanks :cheers:
 
Welcome to tfp, richyoung :wave:

richyoung said:
At that time, I had a 1-1/2 HP Sta-Rite pump that I think burned up because it was too much pump for my system minus the solar panels??
This should have nothing to do with your pump failure.

richyoung said:
Once I hooked her up, presto...she worked yet my top male PVC connector leaked a bit. I sprayed some of that Flex Seal (twice) and she still squirts. I may try some of that Mighty Fix It Tape or Mighty Putty before I have to cut and reinstall PVC pipe/fitting again. ArghHHHH!!! If anyone has some suggestions here, would love to hear them.
Do you have unions installed? If not I would redo and add the unions as you do. Any patch you do will likely leak probably sooner than later.

richyoung said:
I ran the pump for about an hour today and it was hot to the touch on the back end.
Hard to say, if it is just hot to the touch but not hot enough to fry eggs then you should be okay. My method is putting my hand on the motor. If I can stand it for 10 seconds, it is not too hot. Better way would be to use an infrared thermometer.

richyoung said:
Also, since I'm not an electrician, can I...or...should I run it at 115 volts, would that reduce my power bill or does that matter?
Shouldn't matter. I would leave it at 230V.
 
<should I run it at 115 volts, would that reduce my power bill or does that matter?>

Keep it at 230. It only draws about 1/2 the amperage at 230V as it does at 115. Amperage = consumption, so its actually less expensive running 230V.
 
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