Intermatic Timer Fried

Mar 10, 2013
82
My pool guy called and said my pump wouldnt start and wires looked fried at the timer. Everything has been working fine and the timer was only a year old. I think he shorted it with wet fingers and the water touching the eldctrical when he went to turn the timer on.

Is there anyway to salvage this or do I need a new timer
 
Well it looks pretty cooked to me. Is the screw missing at that blackened terminal?

You might try the intermatic website to see if you can replace just that panel that holds the terminals in place but that wouldn't help you if the mechanicals of the timer got fried, too.

I think I would just replace the whole thing.....perhaps leaving the outer body of the timer in place and replacing the innards. YOu may be able to order just the timer and not have to repurchase the body. Check out the intermatic website.
 
poolrookie22 said:
I think he shorted it with wet fingers and the water touching the eldctrical when he went to turn the timer on.

You could spray the panel with a hose and not cause the damage shown. Damage was likely from an overheated connection (loose screw) and took a long time to get to the point where it burned as it eventually did. Don't presume this was caused by the pool guy.
 
duraleigh said:
Well it looks pretty cooked to me. Is the screw missing at that blackened terminal?

You might try the intermatic website to see if you can replace just that panel that holds the terminals in place but that wouldn't help you if the mechanicals of the timer got fried, too.

I think I would just replace the whole thing.....perhaps leaving the outer body of the timer in place and replacing the innards. YOu may be able to order just the timer and not have to repurchase the body. Check out the intermatic website.

The screw isn't missing I took it out. What I don't understand is how all of a sudden there was a loose connection/loose screw when nothing has been touched. The timer clock itself was still working when I got home prior to me turning off the breaker and unscrewing the screw. Maybe I can just pigtail on new wire and put the screw back in and it could possibly work?
 
What I don't understand is how all of a sudden there was a loose connection/loose screw when nothing has been touched
Metal electrical connections not screwed down with just about ALL your strength will loosen themselves over time as the metals heat and cool because of current flow.

That doesn't look like "all of a sudden" to me but rather a long term bad connection.
 
All you need is a T104 mechanism. The P is for plastic enclosure, M is for Metallic. Get which ever one is cheaper. For the cost of just the mechanism you get the enclosure free. Safe the enclosure, sell it on ebay.

The mechanism just pops out of the enclosure.

Step by step directions on changing the mechanism:http://www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how_to_replace_an_intermatic_t104_mechanism.aspx

Try this link to purchase. You'll end up with an extra box: http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-T1...1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383492090&sr=8-1&keywords=t104

Directions from intermatic: http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/I...es/24 Hour/T100 Series/T104 Instructions.ashx

Hope that helps.

Once or twice a year I tighten the connections. When I check for lizards adjust the time change.
 
Although not specifically related to the burnt connection, you should run a ground wire to the ground screw located just to the left of the OFF trigger in the second photo. Since you and your pool people have to access the innards of the timer to set it and override it, you'd be putting yourself and others at extreme risk. As you can see from the episode with the burnt connection, "s**t happens", and your better off having that ground protection in place, than not.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Since I went to get this done fast I will probably buy at home depot for $8 more. To replace it cant I just put the electrical matching where they are now? The wires coming from the electrical box are all black so I dont know offhand whats the line and load, but I figured just match up the wires as they currently are
 
While you're at Home Depot, get some 14 AWG green insulated wire (solid or stranded will work). Connect that wire to any electrical box or equipment you know is properly grounded, and run that wire into your timer. Before starting, make sure you've disconnected all electricity to any live circuits you'll be working on, or near. If your not comfortable with any of this, you should seek the help of an electrician. Good luck.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.