Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

  1. Back To Top    #1
    cbink's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Houston, Tx
    Posts
    685

    Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    Hey!

    My pool build got finished up about 6 weeks ago and we added salt about 10 days ago. Since then I've been struggling to keep my FC < 8.
    I note there is general advice about tweaking the cell and the pump time but is there a good rule of thumb about where to start?
    My cell is currently running at 20% (it got started at 50% and I've been dropping it to try and control the FC) and still keeps the FC at about 8, CYA at 80. Salt is currently at between 2,800 and 3,000.
    Should I set my salt cell to 50% and then reduce the pump times to keep the FC at the 4-5 mark? I don't feel I should drop the cell to less than 20% as clearly I have got my timings slightly wrong at the moment... I'm going off the assumption that it's best to change one thing at a time rather than changing the pump timings and the salt cell percentage. I started by dropping the cell down as I assumed it would only take a small change (I was wrong!).

    The cell is a Hayward T-40 running through a prologic8. The pool is about 26,000 gallons so I would expect to have some leeway on the cell, just not as much as I'm seeing.

    I'll run a full set of tests tonight as we've had a lot of rain today so some of my values may change.

    Appreciate any advice on a good starting point.
    38'x24' freeform IG gunite, 26k gallons, 3.5' - 7'
    8t Moss rock waterfall with gunite slide
    SWCG, 2 x 2.7hp Hayward Tristar pumps, booster pump, 425 sqft cartridge, 400,000 BTU heater, Polaris Black Max 280, ProLogic PS8 & Aquapod

  2. Back To Top    #2
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    8,649

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    I would reduce pump time first, since that would likely be most efficient. Have you looked at this pool school article?: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-.../pump_run_time

    As temperatures get cooler, you will need less swg on time.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  3. Back To Top    #3
    cbink's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Houston, Tx
    Posts
    685

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    I would reduce pump time first, since that would likely be most efficient. Have you looked at this pool school article?: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-.../pump_run_time

    As temperatures get cooler, you will need less swg on time.
    Thank you.
    Yes, I have read the article but struggled to find a starting point for SWG, only 4 hours to circulate the chlorine on a standard 'chlorine' pool.

    I guess I'll set the salt cell to 50% and drop the pump run time until I'm approximately where I need to be (so long as I'm > 4 hours pump run time). From there I should be able to tweak the SWCG +- to keep the FC in range and then adjust pump run times seasonally. Is that the best approach?
    38'x24' freeform IG gunite, 26k gallons, 3.5' - 7'
    8t Moss rock waterfall with gunite slide
    SWCG, 2 x 2.7hp Hayward Tristar pumps, booster pump, 425 sqft cartridge, 400,000 BTU heater, Polaris Black Max 280, ProLogic PS8 & Aquapod

  4. Back To Top    #4
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    8,649

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    Seems like it to me. I wouldn't shy away from upping the swg percentage and reducing the pump run time in the winter, although what do I know...soon my pool will be a block of ice. How long have you been running the swg lately?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  5. Back To Top    #5
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    You can go less than 4 hours, often I have read that 2 hours of run time in the winter is enough ... as long as the SWG is keeping up.

    It really does not matter the combination of run time and % setting ... the wear on the SWG will be the same for the same amount of FC produced.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Adelaide, Australia
    Posts
    77

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    cbink,
    I too am pretty new to this pool thing, but I recently replaced my chlorinator and so read around them a bit. I have no doubt others know way more than me, but here goes:

    Trying doing a brief look for a Hayward T-40 in their range of chlorinators, I could only find a Hayward Tcell-15 with would handle a pool up to 40,000 gallons. Is that what you have?

    Assuming that you do, again looking at the range, the next model down provides for pools up to 25,000 gallons, so it appears that you are just beyond that one. I think it's reasonable to assume that you aren't going to be running the chlorinator at anywhere near full tilt.

    For my old Zodiac at least, the model numbers for their chlorinators referred to grams of chlorine per hour that can be produced, (according to literature, my LM2-24 produced up to 24 grams per hour... when it was working!), so following the same logic, a T15 may produce 15g per hour.
    The next model down in Hayward's line is the T-9, and that is good for a 25k Gallon pool. Mathematically, you would only need 4% more than that ( a T-9.36!) to cope with a 26k pool, but with a T-15 you could have 60% more!

    If these assumptions on chlorine production are correct (I accept that they may not be) your T-15 chlorinator cell running at 63% is equivalent to the "T-9.36" you need, which should be as much as you would ever need for your pool.

    The conclusion:
    I would think that it's highly likely that you can run with the percentage WAY down, especially as it cools and even less chlorine is required.

    edited for typos
    Steven
    18.5k US gallon/69kl IG tiled with an Onga Pantera 25" sand filter, powered by a Davey Silensor 200 1HP/0.75kW pump coupled to a Zodiac TRi (mid) SWG K-2006C Test kit imported from the USA...
    in Adelaide, Australia...

  7. Back To Top    #7
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    To be clear, we recommend sizing the SWG between 1.5-3 times larger than your pool size. So for a 26k pool, a 40k cell is the MINIMUM size we would recommend. The point being that you do not have to run the cell as much and it should last longer.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Adelaide, Australia
    Posts
    77

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    No doubt sage advice from jblizzle (I knew people knew more than me!)

    So that being the case, it would make sense that cbink could be running the SWG for a much shorter time/much lower percentage, as that would be the whole point of the recommendation.

    I am interested in this, as I have just installed a new chlorinator myself (oversized), but haven't set it up yet. Waiting on test kit to arrive, then SLAM, then I'll tune the SWG.
    Steven
    18.5k US gallon/69kl IG tiled with an Onga Pantera 25" sand filter, powered by a Davey Silensor 200 1HP/0.75kW pump coupled to a Zodiac TRi (mid) SWG K-2006C Test kit imported from the USA...
    in Adelaide, Australia...

  9. Back To Top    #9
    cbink's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Houston, Tx
    Posts
    685

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Seems like it to me. I wouldn't shy away from upping the swg percentage and reducing the pump run time in the winter, although what do I know...soon my pool will be a block of ice. How long have you been running the swg lately?
    The pump now runs on high for 4 hours, then on low for 8 hours. Previously it was set to run 10 hours on high and 9 on low (new pool thus higher run times although I can probably drop it further).
    38'x24' freeform IG gunite, 26k gallons, 3.5' - 7'
    8t Moss rock waterfall with gunite slide
    SWCG, 2 x 2.7hp Hayward Tristar pumps, booster pump, 425 sqft cartridge, 400,000 BTU heater, Polaris Black Max 280, ProLogic PS8 & Aquapod

  10. Back To Top    #10
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    8,649

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    Your current run time is still pretty long, especially for cooler months. I would try 1 hour on high (just for skimming) and 3 on low and see if all looks good (assuming your swg can produce enough chlorine with that amount of time).
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  11. Back To Top    #11
    cbink's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Houston, Tx
    Posts
    685

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Your current run time is still pretty long, especially for cooler months. I would try 1 hour on high (just for skimming) and 3 on low and see if all looks good (assuming your swg can produce enough chlorine with that amount of time).
    It's down to 2 on high, 4 on low at 20% and seems to be doing fine. I left it slightly longer to help skimming as I do get a bit of debris off palm trees into the pool.
    I'll keep an eye on the FC but right now it appears to stay at a pretty steady 4.
    38'x24' freeform IG gunite, 26k gallons, 3.5' - 7'
    8t Moss rock waterfall with gunite slide
    SWCG, 2 x 2.7hp Hayward Tristar pumps, booster pump, 425 sqft cartridge, 400,000 BTU heater, Polaris Black Max 280, ProLogic PS8 & Aquapod

  12. Back To Top    #12
    skylar18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    299

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    I am still running mine 8 hours a day on 20 % at low speed. I have a variable speed pump. My FC has been between 4 - 6. My water temperature here in Texas is still around 70 degrees every day so I am remaining quite vigilant on the water chemistry as I am sure garbage will have no problem still growing in at in that temperature.

    During the Heat of Summer I was running it 10 - 11 hours a day at 60 = 70 % to keep my FC where I wanted it.
    43 x 19 Gunite Pool w/ spa and fire pit, 19,000 gallons, Pebble Sheen Aqua Blue finish, Jandy 2 HP VS E-pump, Jandy 580 sq ft Cartridge Filter, Jandy LXI 400k Heater, Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWCG, 4 Jandy LED color lights, Aqualink PDA and Iaqualink, Polaris 280 with Booster Pump. Polaris 9550 Robot Cleaner. 1 HP Silencer Air Blower for Spa http://www.troublefreepool.com/threa...NAL-INSPECTION

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Allen, Texas
    Posts
    80

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    What is your salt reading now? I try to run mine in the 3300-3400 range. When I get down to 2800, I notice my SWG doesn't work quite as well.
    Mike

    16.5k IG gunite pool/spa, pebble-tec type plaster, Aquapure 1400 SWG, Jandy 2hp ePump main pump, Jandy 1.5hp Stealth on waterfall, Polaris 280, iAqualink wifi control, Colorsplash LED pool/spa lights

  14. Back To Top    #14
    cbink's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Houston, Tx
    Posts
    685

    Re: Newbie salt (dumb) question on cell % and run time

    Quote Originally Posted by ntxpool
    What is your salt reading now? I try to run mine in the 3300-3400 range. When I get down to 2800, I notice my SWG doesn't work quite as well.
    My controller reckons it's at 3,200 right now but I have feeling it's a bit higher than that.
    38'x24' freeform IG gunite, 26k gallons, 3.5' - 7'
    8t Moss rock waterfall with gunite slide
    SWCG, 2 x 2.7hp Hayward Tristar pumps, booster pump, 425 sqft cartridge, 400,000 BTU heater, Polaris Black Max 280, ProLogic PS8 & Aquapod

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •