Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Pool Closing with vari flow control valve

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Pool Closing with vari flow control valve

    My pool is about to be closed for its third time. The first couple of years I had the pool store do it as once was free. I am doing this myself this year. Iíve read pool school on how to close a pool. Iíve watched my pool store close my pool (apparently not close enough hence this thread). Iíve read the pinned topic closing-an-in-ground-pool-t2896.html Iíve searched threads here at troublefreepool. Because of my setup, I am seeking some additional advice. Obviously there can be opinions of what you should or should not do. I am most interested in if anything in the process is something that you would NOT do in the category of ďif you do this, you are begging for a major repair/problemĒ. I am also aware that for my climate (Western PA) that I am late in closing my pool. Work tasks and a family vacation led to the delay. I am aware of the beliefs that if you blow out the lines you wonít need

    Here is my setup, Iíve also attached a photo of my equipment pad and another with location of skimmer return and jets.
    18x36 IG Vinyl
    2 jets in steps
    2 jets in deep end
    1 return skimmer in shallow
    Hayward pump
    Hayward DE 4820 filter (not the older finger kind)
    Vari Flo SP-710XR50 control valve (backwash 12, recirculate 2, rinse 4, filter 6, waste 8, closed 10 Ė numbers indicate aprx clock face)
    Tigerflex PVC 1 Ĺ and some rigid PVC near pad.

    My closing plan
    Here is what I plan to do for closing. I have some questions and more detail info below.

    1) Shock the pool and add algaecide the night before
    2) Vacuum the pool
    3) Backwash, no adding more DE
    4) Drain pool water to near skimmer bottom
    5) Turn off all AC at panel
    6) De-pressure pool filter, let water drain plug off at bottom, take top off and clean inner cell with hose (using garden adapter for some pressure)
    7) Winterize Skimmer Return
    • a. Put one layer of plumber tape on gizmo and screw into skimmer. Remove top plug from gizmo.
      b. Connect shop vac to pump basket inlet and blow out return line (water will geyser out top of gizmo)
      c. Add antifreeze to pump basket inlet and to the top of gizmo
      d. Attach Aquador cover to skimmer return
      e. Suck out water in skimmer return
      f. Plug top of gizmo and pump basket

    8) Winterize Jets
    • a. Put plugs into deep end jets
      b. Put one plug into step jet
      c. Hand hold 90 pvc periscope (see below) to step jet and blow it out with shop vac connected to inside of DE filter output (vari flow set to filter)
      d. Dump some anti freeze into periscope, then quickly remove periscope and connect plug to jet.
      e. Do same process with other step jet
      f. Close T connection to step jets at equipment pad (see photo)
      g. Unplug closest deep jet, hold periscope, blow out line, add antifreeze, quickly plug.
      h. Do same process with other deep jet.
      i. Open the T connection to step jets at equipment pad (see photo)
      j. Dump anti freeze into jet lines (through inner DE filter outlet)

    9) Set vari-flow to Closed.
    10) Put inner cell in DE filter and recover
    11) Attach winter cover

    Questions and more summary

    How to I blow out the lines for my jets and add RV anti-freeze?
    Because of my pad setup, access to my one skimmer return is relatively easy in that I have access to the basket where the pump is and all items can occur there.
    However, access to the jet lines is lesser than ideal. I see the following access points there:
    1) Add the anti-freeze to the jets via a 90 elbow PVC workaround (see below). Still need a way to blow out the lines.
    2) After I de-pressure and take the lid off my DE filter, I in theory have access to its output port where I can blow out the lines and feed in antifreeze. Since I havenít opened the filter (didnít pay attention close enough when pool store did it) I canít determine how easy it will be to access that location. Because the output to the filter connects to the heater, it is less than ideal to put anti-freeze here because of the up and down nature and through the heater. I assume I would have to keep filling and then blow the anti-freeze through the lines.
    3) Set the vari flow to recirculate and then attach shop vac in pump basket. How add antifreeze this way?
    4) Cut the PVC just in front of the T that splits the jets and connects to output of the heater? This is less than ideal because of having to cut PVC, but I do plan on installing a salt cell in that exact location in the spring.

    The 90 elbow periscope idea. I noted that my pool store when blowing out the lines would have the water level at normal height (i.e. above the jets) and would take off the jet connection, then hand hold a 90 PVC elbow with a 1-2 foot PVC piece that stuck up out of the water like a periscope. When they blew out the line, a geyser type effect would happen until the lines were basically blown out. They would then remove the 90 and quickly screw in the plug for the jet. I asked ďwonít some water get back in the line?Ē and their response was ďyes, but that is what the anti-freeze is forĒ.

    Please note that my plan for blowing out the lines is to use a shop vac of 16 gallon 6HP peak size. This is much larger than the shop vac the pool store used. My neighbor uses a similar size. I do not have access to an air compressor and view that doing the blowing of lines and adding RV anti-freeze will be adequate.

    Does my plan of doing the jets sound like the best way (doing far jets first then closer steps jets)?

    When I clean the inside of my DE filter, should I do anything else besides hose it off? My neighbor has the older ďfingerĒ style that you have to manual bump. He puts his in muriatic acid for 24 hours. I view I do not have to do this.

    Do I need to run the filter for so long after adding the algaecide? Can this be added with the filter off (i.e. after blowing out lines)

    I mention here about adding anti-freeze. My neighbor has same pool size and adds < 1 gallon to skimmer and < 1 gallon to jet lines. I plan on adding at least one full gallon to skimmer line and at least 4 gallons to the jet lines. Can you add too much anti-freeze?

    The algaecide I got from my pool store is Pool Breeze Algaecide 60 1qt. 60% active ingredient is Poly[oxyethlene(dimethyliminio)ethylene(dimethylimino)ethylene dichloride.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    18x36 IG Steel Wall Vinyl 25K gallon 3.5-8ft, Hayward 4820 DE Filter, Hayward 1HP Super Pump, Hayward 250K BTU NG heater, Zodiac Baracuda MX8 Cleaner, 4 jets (steps/deep), 1 return
    30 mins North of Pittsburgh Pennsylvania

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad Patrick_B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011

    Re: Pool Closing with vari flow control valve

    Welcome to TFP!

    I live where it is warm and can't add much in the way of closing. Hope you find what you need here and enjoy your time on the forum.
    TFP Moderator
    Essential Links:
    TF-100 Test Kit, ABC's Of Pool Chemistry, Test Kits, SLAM Your Pool
    28K Gal IG FreeForm, CLI Quartz, Flagstone, 36"SF, Pentair VS Pump, EasyTouch W/Remote, Rheem 400KBTU Htr

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: Pool Closing with vari flow control valve

    Thanks for the reply (I was surprised I had no one reply with any insight).

    This was my first time I closed the pool myself so I wanted to make sure I was doing everything right and not spending hours running in circles. Overall I think because I made sure I had everything ready ahead of time it was pretty straightforward. The way I have to do things I don't see how you could do a pool closing w/o a 2nd hand.

    I ended up coming close to my verbose step by step above.
    There was no way to easily fit my shop vac into the pump basket so I connected it to the waste port, set the control valve to waste and was able to get my one and only skimmer return line to blow. I found a cool trick to cut a old plastic water bottle in half and duct tape that to the shop vac end to help taper down the diameter. I had a gizzmo that the top plug can come off and at first the water would not geyser out. I almost had to scoop some out while the shop vac was on but then ones it started to trickle then the first sputter of air and then it really started to spray. The jets in the steps were pretty easy and it took a couple of tries to get the jets in the deep end but all is good. I ended up completely disconnecting my filter so I could connect the shop vac to the vari control valve. Because the jets went through the valve, then heater, I think that may have been some of the issue with getting the deep jets to blow. I will be installing a salt chlorinator in the spring so when I cut in after the heater outlet, I will put a entry point for the shop vac in the future. I ended up putting the rv antifreeze in from the pool side. I may put a little more in on the pad side before the winter in case there is a dip between the pad and pool (it slopes down from pad to pool but you never know where a dip might be). Western PA so the flex line can dip.
    18x36 IG Steel Wall Vinyl 25K gallon 3.5-8ft, Hayward 4820 DE Filter, Hayward 1HP Super Pump, Hayward 250K BTU NG heater, Zodiac Baracuda MX8 Cleaner, 4 jets (steps/deep), 1 return
    30 mins North of Pittsburgh Pennsylvania

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts