My question has to do with Cal-Hypo in the skimmer. I've seen mixed reviews on whether this is permissible or not. I don't have an Inline-chlorinater on the pool. My main concern is will this be okay for my DE Grids and heater etc, if I add cal-hypo to the skimmer when wanting to shock the pool. A friend of mine who has been doing service for 30 years said it's fine as long as the pump runs for at least a couple of hours after you administer it through the skimmer. Your feed back?
Cal Hypo in the skimmer with no tri-chlorinater?
- Thread starter Btd001
- Start date
Welcome to the forum.
We may or.may not suggest using cal-hypo depending on your water balance. Do you have a full set of test results by any chance? Also, If you could include your pool info in your sig line, it would help us a lot. Knowing that helps us make better recommendations to you.
We may or.may not suggest using cal-hypo depending on your water balance. Do you have a full set of test results by any chance? Also, If you could include your pool info in your sig line, it would help us a lot. Knowing that helps us make better recommendations to you.
Yeah, assuming your water balance allows for the increase in calcium, it is doable.
From experience, I can tell you it requires some reasonable degree of care.
If you dump it in carelessly, you may get Calcium scale in some of your equipment that doesn't clean up very well. (and as linen notes below, you get a pretty big jolt of FC + Calcium traveling your system.....diluted into a bucket and then in front of a return is a bit better.)
I will never reveal how I know that about the scale issue.
From experience, I can tell you it requires some reasonable degree of care.
If you dump it in carelessly, you may get Calcium scale in some of your equipment that doesn't clean up very well. (and as linen notes below, you get a pretty big jolt of FC + Calcium traveling your system.....diluted into a bucket and then in front of a return is a bit better.)
I will never reveal how I know that about the scale issue.
We generally recommend against adding chemicals through the skimmer.Btd001 said:
Also, why are do you need to "shock the pool"? Do you have algae?
The pool is gunite/plaster and here in Texas our cheapest forms of chlorination are tri-chlor tabs and cal-hypo "shock". It gets very hot in the summer and rising cya levels in addition to high temperatures make it necessary to super chlorinate the pools every week. I keep the ph, alkalinity, and calcium levels in check.
My main concern is finding the fastest most efficient way to administer cal-hypo that DOESN'T leave behind any calcium/dust residue. I've tried the brushing method and bucket method, but all will still leave behind the calcium dust residue.
So my main concern is will cal-hypo in the skimmer effect my DE grids if the pool is left to run a few hours after it is administered this way.
My main concern is finding the fastest most efficient way to administer cal-hypo that DOESN'T leave behind any calcium/dust residue. I've tried the brushing method and bucket method, but all will still leave behind the calcium dust residue.
So my main concern is will cal-hypo in the skimmer effect my DE grids if the pool is left to run a few hours after it is administered this way.
I would think in Texas (and here in AZ) there is NO WAY you would want to be intentionally adding calcium though the use of cal-hypo. I think you are being a little short sighted on the cost. MAYBE the cal-hypo is a little cheaper to buy (this is not usually the case compared to liquid chlorine), but you are ignoring the cost of inevitably having the drain the pool to lower the calcium level (due to cal-hypo) or the CYA level (due to trichlor or dichlor).
If you learn and follow the recommendations as describe here and in Pool School you will see that there is no need to "shock" the pool on some schedule. By maintaining adequate FC which is a function of CYA level (FC/CYA Chart) using bleach, the water will stay clear without any powders and elevated FC levels required.
If you learn and follow the recommendations as describe here and in Pool School you will see that there is no need to "shock" the pool on some schedule. By maintaining adequate FC which is a function of CYA level (FC/CYA Chart) using bleach, the water will stay clear without any powders and elevated FC levels required.
Post a full set of test results and we can help better...FC, CC, ph, TA, CH, cya, salt, borate level (if you use them).
A properly maintained pool should not need periodic "shocking, no matter the environment.
A properly maintained pool should not need periodic "shocking, no matter the environment.