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Thread: Noobie - need help balancing

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Bethel, CT
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    Noobie - need help balancing

    So I am new to spas/hot tubs and survived my first summer with the pool (thanks to TFP!!) Pool was great with easy maintenance.

    The spa has been empty since we moved into the new house in May, dont know how long it sat empty total. It needed a new circ pump which i just installed. Mechanically it is now working. I filled the tub prior to installing the pump, that was about 3 weeks ago. I added some bleach just to make an attempt to not let Swamp Thing grow while i was waiting on the pump. Spa was filled with well water (not softened) that is filtered by the whole house filter.

    I used my TF-100 kit and came up with the following readings:

    TA 65
    PH >8 (purple color using Taylor K-1000)
    CYA 0 (filled the viewing tube to the top and could see the black dot clearly)
    CH didnt get a good reading... the solution was pink/lavender in color, turned clear w blue "speckles" at 50 drops of R-0012. It never turned blue even at 100 drops.

    Other strange thing, I checked the Chlorine with the Taylor K-1000 and it was orange in color. Guessing I put in too much bleach, I did add more 2 nights ago.

    Where should i go from here? Thanks in advance!!
    30,000g In-ground Vinyl, 8.5 - 3ft L-Shape
    HO Smith 1HP Pump, Hayward DE EC75 Filter, Dolphin Nautilus Pool Vac
    Diving board & Slide

  2. Back To Top    #2
    linen's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
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    Twin Cities, MN
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    Re: Noobie - need help balancing

    Orange on the OTO chlorine test indicates your Total Chlorine (TC) is between 10 and 30 ppm. Do you have fas-dpd tester ( not to be confused with the dpd chlorine test)? If you do, post your Free Chlorine (FC), it is likely high and the ph test is not valid with a FC over 10 ppm.

    Quote Originally Posted by ploizzo
    CH didnt get a good reading... the solution was pink/lavender in color, turned clear w blue "speckles" at 50 drops of R-0012. It never turned blue even at 100 drops.
    It sounds like you may have a "fading endpoint". Redo the test and follow the extended test kit instructions for a "fading endpoint" here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/exten...1.html#p206396
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Bethel, CT
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    11

    Re: Noobie - need help balancing

    Thanks for the response!

    I did the fas-dpd test and the results are:

    FC 13.5
    CC 1
    TC 14.5

    Calcium test using instructions for fading endpoint: 130

    Separate question: I referenced installing a new circ pump prior to all of this... should it be running all the time? This is a 2005 Sundance Lagunas Spa.

    Thanks!!
    30,000g In-ground Vinyl, 8.5 - 3ft L-Shape
    HO Smith 1HP Pump, Hayward DE EC75 Filter, Dolphin Nautilus Pool Vac
    Diving board & Slide

  4. Back To Top    #4
    linen's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
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    Twin Cities, MN
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    Re: Noobie - need help balancing

    So your calcium is good.

    Are you going to use the "Dichlor then bleach" approach? I would...see: http://www.troublefreepool.com/how-d...95.html#p80503

    Quote Originally Posted by ploizzo
    Separate question: I referenced installing a new circ pump prior to all of this... should it be running all the time? This is a 2005 Sundance Lagunas Spa.
    I am not entirely sure how you spa works, but if you are maintaining it a raised temp then the pump needs to be on (on low speed if it has it).
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Rafael, CA USA
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    12,082

    Re: Noobie - need help balancing

    You should never add unstabilized chlorine to a spa with no CYA in the water unless you are doing a decontamination procedure. If you leave the chlorine at high levels it will be far too strong and will oxidize spa components, including the spa cover, more quickly (for 20 ppm FC with no CYA at pH 8.2 vs. 2 ppm FC with 30 ppm CYA it's 20-120 times faster depending on temperature).
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

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