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Thread: Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

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    chezhed's Avatar
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    Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

    I have what I think is a RS1500 Hayward pump with with appears to be a replaced motor from a Hayward Max Flo or Super II, a 2 HP AO Smith C48M2N111A3 with a Hayward Pools label on it. The motor's bearings are going and my electric bill is ridiculous so I think it's time to change....

    It seems the motor is overkill and I'm probably running it more than needed but I still like the idea of a variable speed but no clue as to where to start. My existing plumbing is configured to be able to shut off pool returns and switch entire system to spa. I have a pool valet system that has 5 zones with 3-4 pop ups, one zone being in the spa to overflow into the pool. Farthest zone is probably 50 feet from the pump and 20 feet from the valet controller. Returns are 2 skimmers and one floor in pool and a floor in spa for its single usage.

    Appreciate any suggestions.
    11,000 gal + overflow spa, IG gunnite, Pentair 48FNS DE filter, Hayward SP3210X15 pump, CompuPool CPSC36 Chlorine generator, pool valet w/5 zones, Pentair LP heater

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    bobodaclown's Avatar
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    Re: Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

    Hello,
    Depending on what your electric cost are a 2-speed may be more economical. The price difference between a variable speed and 2-speed the saving would never make up the price difference.
    I'm not positive but I believe you have a round-flange/C-flange motor. They're made by several different manufactures, and then relabled.
    A single replacement motor can be had for $228.
    A dual speed motor with timer 2ezspeed for $503.

    You can shop around and maybe find one cheaper. You have options.
    17K Kidney Shaped Pool Concrete (Diamond Bright) Pool, 3/4 hp 2 speed 115V Sta-rite Duraglas PEA5D-180L/P2R5D-181L (Impeller C105-92PS Diffuser C1-216P), 1.5 piping, Pentair CC100 Filter , Heat Siphon 100K BTU Heat Pump Pool Heater, Flow meter Blue White Flowmeter Model No. F-30150P, Hayward Astrolight SP0581N, SWCG CalimarTitanium Edition TE45 , Dolphin Nautilus Plus with CleverClean, Lakeland Florida

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    chezhed's Avatar
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    Re: Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

    Electricity is $0.095/kwh.
    Yeah I'm seeing dual speed for about $4-500 but I find a whole new systems like a Hayward Max Flow VS for just over $600. I have one pool builder telling me a VS would pay for itself in 2 years and another saying it isn't worth it.
    11,000 gal + overflow spa, IG gunnite, Pentair 48FNS DE filter, Hayward SP3210X15 pump, CompuPool CPSC36 Chlorine generator, pool valet w/5 zones, Pentair LP heater

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    mas985's Avatar
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    Re: Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

    Quote Originally Posted by chezhed
    II have a pool valet system that has 5 zones with 3-4 pop ups, one zone being in the spa to overflow into the pool.
    A VS or two speed pump will have only a minor impact on a pool with an floor cleaner because most systems require high flow rates and pressure in order to operate properly so they will consume a lot of energy. Nature of the beast. The biggest savings will come from cutting down on the in floor run time. If you need more run time than what is required for the in floor, only then will a VS or two speed show any benefit.
    Mark
    Hydraulics 101; Pump Ed 101; Pump/Pool Spreadsheets; Pump Run Time Study; DIY Acid Dosing; DIY Cover Roller
    18'x36' 20k plaster, MaxFlo SP2303VSP, Aqualogic PS8 SWCG, 420 sq-ft Cartridge, Solar, 6 jet spa, 1 HP jet pump, 400k BTU NG Heater

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    Re: Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

    Consider that a variable speed motor has more components that can go bad (fail). A single speed motor generally lasts 7-8 years (or longer) if the conditions are good (i.e. no overload, out of the sun, dirt, and water, etc). There are less things to fail.

    A love the technology and 'green' initiatives, but get frustrated when my operating cost savings by going 'efficient' are lost by a unit that fails prematurely because of some control circuitry.

    I've already had a bad experience with a so called 'efficient' ECM motor that costs more than 3 times as much as old solid fixed speed motor. Maybe I just have bad luck with these things. Food for thought....
    John (DIYer). Concrete, approximately 13,000 gallon in-ground pool with adjoining concrete spa. Approximately 40 years old. Hayward Super II pump for pool and legacy Anthony Sta-Rite bronze pump CF6 for spa, VA-26 filter,(2 sets), Rheem propane heater for spa. HASA Liquidator for pool.

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    chezhed's Avatar
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    Re: Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

    Quote Originally Posted by mas985
    Quote Originally Posted by chezhed
    II have a pool valet system that has 5 zones with 3-4 pop ups, one zone being in the spa to overflow into the pool.
    A VS or two speed pump will have only a minor impact on a pool with an floor cleaner because most systems require high flow rates and pressure in order to operate properly so they will consume a lot of energy. Nature of the beast. The biggest savings will come from cutting down on the in floor run time. If you need more run time than what is required for the in floor, only then will a VS or two speed show any benefit.
    So that must be why the one is telling me it won't pay for itself...I think the valet pop ups are the only returns I have for the pool. There aren't any jets anywhere else except the spa. So I guess I just look for a more efficient single speed motor and better calculate my run time to get the proper water turnover.
    11,000 gal + overflow spa, IG gunnite, Pentair 48FNS DE filter, Hayward SP3210X15 pump, CompuPool CPSC36 Chlorine generator, pool valet w/5 zones, Pentair LP heater

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    mas985's Avatar
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    Re: Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

    This might help:

    pool-school/pump_run_time

    Hint: Turnover is irrelevant.
    Mark
    Hydraulics 101; Pump Ed 101; Pump/Pool Spreadsheets; Pump Run Time Study; DIY Acid Dosing; DIY Cover Roller
    18'x36' 20k plaster, MaxFlo SP2303VSP, Aqualogic PS8 SWCG, 420 sq-ft Cartridge, Solar, 6 jet spa, 1 HP jet pump, 400k BTU NG Heater

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    chezhed's Avatar
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    Re: Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

    thanks.....I think I've been running way too long! I'll cut it back and watch my cl a little more frequently now that the sun is moving down. And mjust replace the old motor with a more efficient single speed. B230SE instead of a UST1202....
    11,000 gal + overflow spa, IG gunnite, Pentair 48FNS DE filter, Hayward SP3210X15 pump, CompuPool CPSC36 Chlorine generator, pool valet w/5 zones, Pentair LP heater

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    chezhed's Avatar
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    Re: Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

    Home warranty covered pool equipment!!!! Pool guy comes out and finds other issues to write up as well. Got approved for a new pump...thank goodness because the motor died Monday and a new Hayward TriStar was installed today. This should help my electricity too as I went from 2 HP to 1-1/2 HP with the TriStar.

    Thanks all for the advice.
    11,000 gal + overflow spa, IG gunnite, Pentair 48FNS DE filter, Hayward SP3210X15 pump, CompuPool CPSC36 Chlorine generator, pool valet w/5 zones, Pentair LP heater

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Pump & motor cobbled configuration - motor dying

    Quote Originally Posted by chezhed
    Home warranty covered pool equipment!!!! Pool guy comes out and finds other issues to write up as well. Got approved for a new pump...thank goodness because the motor died Monday and a new Hayward TriStar was installed today. This should help my electricity too as I went from 2 HP to 1-1/2 HP with the TriStar.
    You likely wont see much decrease in energy usage since your old motor was and uprated 2 hp and you new pump motor is a full-rated 1.5 hp motor (assuming it is the SP3215EE)...i.e. about the same motor on both. The way to decrease power consumption is now to reduce you pump on time.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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