Unable to stop algea and high CYA

[pwrstrk]

Yes wait till you know your CYA level to SLAM. you have to know your CYA level so you know what your shock level is.
Your FC level is determined by your CYA level pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

For a CYA level of 50 your FC levels should be 4-8 ppm and not below 4
For a CYA level of 80 your FC levels should be 6-10 ppm and not below 6

The CYA is a buffer for chlorine so it's not so harsh,and protects it from the sun, if that makes sense.
What is CLEAR 03 ?

 

[Jeetyet]

Re:

...What is CLEAR 03 ?

Its an Ozone system.

 

[anisudha21]

Sorry for the delay in response. I didn't realize there is a second page.

Yes, Clear O3 is an Ozone system that oxidizes the organic material in the water to have it degraded. This way it will not combine with Chlorine and form chloramides (?). This promises to reduce the amount of Chemical needed in the pool.

The pool is filled and I have the pump on.

 

[pwrstrk]

Personally I would not use an ozone system. I guess that's why they the pool company recommend low FC levels. I think it's asking for problems.

IMO liquid chlorine is the best way and most economical way to disinfect pool water. It's the method I use.

What's your CYA level ?

 

[anisudha21]

The CYA level is showing 30-50 on the strips and PH is showing high. So I am taking the water to the store where they have the better test kit. I have ordered TF-100 and it is going to take a few days to come. I don't know if I can work from home today to get things done. Wasted on day working from home yesterday just looking water to fill and doing only office work.

 

[anisudha21]

PH is 8 and total alkanity is 100. CYA is 80. This was from a TF-100 test kit (not done by me though).
I still have muric acid which i bought more than 6 months back. I kept it safe and it hasn't changed color. Will it have a shelf life issue or can I go ahead and use that to reduce the PH?

 

[anisudha21]

Hello all, I went ahead an added 23 oz of Muriatic acid as the pool calculator suggested. I have the pump up to have it mixed together and will add liquid chlorine in another hour. The CYA 80 needs 31 FC to shock. But as soon as I entered 94 degrees as today;s high temperature, it says use 44 for algae treatment. So I am looking at 5.5 gallons of liquid chlorine to be poured. I bought 8 gallons on Sunday. Can you please tell me as soon as possible if this is correct or any changes are needed? I am a bit nervous.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Mustard Algae requires 44 ppm FC for the shock level. Regular shock level is 31 ppm. That's what you should be shooting for.

 

[anisudha21]

Thank you, Dave. I now have 6 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine in the pool. keeping fingers crossed and hoping they are on good concentration.

 

[anisudha21]

Hello all,
The pool is still cloudy and I have the pump on. I am still keeping the Chlorine level above 10 (CYA=80), just to make sure the algae is not coming back. I had an algecide (Bio Dex skill it), so I added a 4 oz (advised dosage for removal) of that too to be sure. Haven't got a chance to clean the filter yet, but planning to start today evening onwards. I wish there was a way I could use the pool water to clean the catridges to dilute the CYA in the water. I guess not possible without another pump. Any thoughts?

Also, I wanted to thank all of you again for the right guidance. I am exploring the Borax option, but since my CYA is still high, does it make sense to wait?

 

[jblizzle]

You need to review the SLAM process again ... you have to maintain the SLAM FC level until you pass all 3 criteria to stop. You water is cloudy, therefore you have not passes at least one of the criteria.

Algaecide is not needed and Borates should not be considered until you have everything balanced and even then they are completely optional.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Hello all,
The pool is still cloudy and I have the pump on. I am still keeping the Chlorine level above 10 (CYA=80), just to make sure the algae is not coming back. I had an algecide (Bio Dex skill it), so I added a 4 oz (advised dosage for removal) of that too to be sure.

I think you're a little confused-This is not a one dose done deal! You need to raise the CL to your SLAM level and KEEP it there (via repeated dosings) until you've killed off all the algae. Your first dose was that big 5+gallon dose, then you re-test in an hour or so and using the pool calculator program it will advise you how much to dose again with to bring the water back up to your SLAM level. The amount of CL you'll add will vary a bit (I imagine it shouldn't be that initial 5 gallons again) as your water should still have some residual CL in there but it is also being used up as it kills off the cooties. SOooooo.. test, treat and repeat until you can pass the three criteria necessary.

Also, STOP adding odd and assorted chemicals like that mystery algaecide that you don't know will work, or why it *might* be used in some situations, but was unnecessary at this point of time with your green water. Stop asking the pool store for help as they just are going to sell you something and perhaps their motivation is as green as your water

 

[anisudha21]

Hello, With the slamming and the internet problem at home, I missed to give proper updates in time. I was following the Slamming process from the article and kind of added more liquid chlorine that night and the subsequent couple of days. I didn't get the test kit in time and was going to the other pool store with the Taylor kit and manual testing. I guess I added a couple of gallons more than needed since I couldn't get frequent and accurate readings. It was cloudy on Thursday, but the chlorine level didn't drop a lot. I have cleaned the filter twice to wash off the creamy dead algae and the pool was clear by Saturday morning. PH 7.6 Chlorine 8 CYA 85. I will test the test kit as it comes this week. Does anyone know how long the UPS ground option will take from east cost to Arizona? I ordered early morning 24th.

I bought Bleach this time and attaching the label pictures since I want to be sure. Walmart neighborhood one and no additives mentioned. Can you please have a look and let me know if this is the right one?
[attachment=0:1lbx5i8e]Bleach2.jpg[/attachment:1lbx5i8e]
[attachment=1:1lbx5i8e]Bleach1.jpg[/attachment:1lbx5i8e]

Thanks a lot.

 

[linen]

That is fine bleach to use. How much did it cost?

Did you order you test kit from tftestkits.net? If yes, then I would guess you will have it soon. Until then, you don't really know if you are done with the SLAM process...but I would wait until you have the kit to continue (I am suspicious of your store tested cya number since I assume they tested indoors).

 

[anisudha21]

It was $2.98 a bottle (121 oz). Is that a good price?
We need to test CYA only out doors? I guess that makes sense since it is about the dot disappearing. I thought it is 30-50 band in my test strip, but can't really say I guess. I ordered it from tftestkits.net since the west cost site didn't have the XL option or the extra CYA options...
Thank you for taking the time to respond to me.

 

[linen]

2.98/(121*0.0825)= $0.30/ oz NaCl0 is on the high end, though I think bleach runs high in Az. Here I can always get it less than $0.20/oz NaClO.

Yes, cya should be tested with good sunlight at your back with vial near waste level. Don't trust the test strips, they are almost always wrong for cya.

 

[jblizzle]

Where in AZ are you? (add it to your profile).

Check if the Walmart by you carries the HTH 10% of 2 gallons for $6.47 ... that is a little over $0.25/oz ... otherwise Home Depot and Lowes have 2 gallons of 10% for around $6.86.

There is one pool store in Tucson that sells the 12% in bulk for $0.214/oz

 

[anisudha21]

Thank you. Walmart superstore here seems to have 10% liquid for $6.47 (which was on sale last week for $6). Its a little far away from my place. I will check Home Depot and Lowes too.

 

[Patrick_B]

If you maintain FC at 0.5-1.0 with CYA above 30 you will get algae, I absolutely guarantee you. We don't care much for Ozone for sanitizing a pool, because it doesn't do so very well at all. Out there you need at least 40-50 CYA minimum, and FC in the suggested range for that level. Otherwise you will run into trouble. You may have to bump the Cya a little higher, but you can figure that out once things are sorted.

You can SLAM the pool once you have a good read on Cya, yes.

 

[anisudha21]

Hello all, Its been a while and I wanted to give an update on where I am. I got my TF-100, have been doing the tests and I am getting comfortable with the process (or addicted to playing with it). Yesterday night, I got FC - 1, CC - .5, PH 7.8, TA = 130 (instruction said add drops till red, but I am seeing more of a pink tint than red, hoping that is ok) and my CYA is 35. I saw that store person do the same test manually and I don't know how he got 85. Those two levels are inches away in the tube and I have been getting the same reading even if I do outside or inside. That means I slammed the pool with target chlorine level of 31 instead of the 16 I needed. I hope that didn't do any damage to the pump and other parts. The water is crystal clear and I am maintaining the Chlorine at 1-2 range. Added chlorine dosage and acid again yesterday to keep me back at FC 2 and PH 100 (the chart said up to 90, but the kit instructions said 100-120 and I was keeping it at 100 in the past). The water is getting cold here and I am planning to use the trichlor tablets I have in stock in this winter keeping an eye in CYA. Please review and let me know your comments on this. Again, thank you all so much for quick responses and maintaining this site with tones for information on everything needed for a pool owner.