New Liner Startup Checklist & Procedure

[SilverJK]

I want to make sure I have a game plan on what I need to do.

I have a new liner being installed in about 2 weeks and I want to have my arsenal of supplies ready.

Phase 1
First, since I have a salt water pool, I need several bags of Salt (about 18 or so for my 27K pool).
Second, I know I will need CYA as my fill water will not have any. (stabilizer)
Third, I know I will need to get chlorine in there soon; however I'm not positive on how much initially as I allow the salt to circulate 24 hours prior to turning on the SWG.

Phase 2
Being to adjust the pH and TA according to my fill water's beginning amounts.

Chemicals to have on hand:
Pure Salt
Liquide Chlorine
Stabilizer
Muratic Acid & Baking Soda (that's the nature of my SWG)

Now from here, is there is any steps I have missed (other than adjusting the chemistry to fall within the guidelines)?

On another topic, I have used hth Shock & Swim (cal-hypo) and have read about it adding to much calcium to pools. I just don't understand how if people only use this to shock their pool, how do they even manage with such a high CH? I have read about Dichlor and Trichlor, but I just do not understand them that well and I haven't seen any (I'm almost refusing to step foot back into a pool store).

Thanks

 

[duraleigh]

You sort of have the basics, but....

Depending on your test results, you may not need baking soda.

You will certainly need muriatic.

You can test your fill water right now and know in advance what chemistry you will need.

Once pool is full, I would.....

Adjust pH if needed (adjust TA if needed, too)

Add a jug of Clorox each evening until you start the SWG.

Dose enough CYA to get to around 40 ppm....you'll adjust higher later.

Probably an oversight, but your plan as posted doesn't show any testing. Testing and dosing accurately is the heart and soul of what we teach.

 

[SilverJK]

Yes, I have not tested my fill water yet but I do plan on knowing that prior to anything added to the pool; expect Salt, Chlorine and CYA (which all should be 0 from the fill water).

Until I can circulate water, should I not add anything? Reason for asking is that the installer will do a partial fill to get the upper edges of the liner set before filling the remainder of the pool. It should be a 2-3 day process from start to finish.

 

[duraleigh]

It is pointless to add chemistry when you do not know if you need to. Get some test results. Reading between the lines, it sounds like you are going to get pool store testing......that will not get you off to a great start.

 

[SilverJK]

Actually, I so have a Taylor 2006 test kit; so I do plan on testing my fill water. I have little desire to go back to the pool store.

 

[duraleigh]

Actually, I so have a Taylor 2006 test kit; so I do plan on testing my fill water. I have little desire to go back to the pool store.

Excellent....you're off to a great start.

Test your fill water when you get a chance and post up those numbers....you'll get lot's of help.

 

[SilverJK]

Okay, the Fill water

CYA, FC, & CC was not tested (should all be 0)
pH = 7.0
TA = 90
CH = 180ish

I have not gotten comfortable with the CH test, the water gradually turns purple; mine never appears to be a sudden change.

 

[duraleigh]

Use the pool-calculator and purchase enough 20 mule Team Borax to raise your pH to about 7.4. Add it when the pool is full and you have retested to make sure pH is still 7.0.

Introduce the CYA to about 40 ppm but buy enough to go to 70 ppm....you'll add more later.

Large jug of Clorox each evening until your Salt is introduced and SWG is up and running

That's really all you need to do.....TA and CH are fine.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Are you filling the pool from a well or public water supply? I ask because you say the FC should be zero.
If from a well do you know whether you have iron or not?

 

[SilverJK]

Just for clarification; I should only add the bleach when the pump is able to circulate? I'm filling at the moment, but not able to turn on the pump.

anser to above; public water supply.

 

[linen]

Just for clarification; I should only add the bleach when the pump is able to circulate? I'm filling at the moment, but not able to turn on the pump.

If you are going to go more than a day without circulation, slowly pour the bleach around the perimeter of the pool, then brush, brush, brush to get it all stirred in and not pooling in high concentration anywhere potentially damaging the liner.

anser to above; public water supply.

Then you will likely have some FC and/or CC in it. Not a big deal, but if you test your pool and find CC in the first day or two, this is probably the source and not a byproduct of killing organics in the pool.

 

[SilverJK]

okay, so I'm up and running now. I put 17 40 lbs. bags of salt in the pool and circulated it for 24 hours prior to turning on the SWG. When I turned it on and ran it, it was showing about 3500ppm of salt and I ran it the rest of the day. This morning, it was showing about 4100, then I reset it and it lowered to 3900. I do not have a main drain, but considering putting the vacuum down there to move some water around as my salt seems kinda high. I have an 18x36 pool that calculates 18 bags for 3200; however I may be a little less than that given the salt is kinda high.

My question is, what is the operating limit of an Aquarite Goldline with a T-15 cell? I do know that it recommends 27-34. I basically want to know if I really need to drain some water from the pool. For what it's worth, when it showed 3900 this AM, I powered off the SWG and just left the pump on to circulate. Also, a cold front came thru last night (not sure if that affects the SWG or not).

Thanks