Drain and refill - Want to try BBB

[paulyd]

We have a 16' X 32" in-ground (3 1/2' to 8' deep). We had to drain and refill as CYA and TDSs were through the roof and we couldn't keep enough chlorine in it (we drained the whole thing). We have had no rain to speak of here for a month and a half and there is a lot of dust (they are excavating for a new housing plan right behind our house causing a lot of dust). We had been using powdered shock and 3" tablets (plus a whole lot of clarifyier, etc). We want to switch to the BBB. Here are our numbers: TDS = 500, CYA = 0 (We added 3.5 lbs of powdered CYA after testing), Total Chlorine = 0.6 (We added 2 gallons of 12.5% shock since testing), Free Chlorine = 0 (we put 3 - 3" tablets in the skimmer since we still have about a half a bucket of the tabs left - Can we use something else to help maintain the FC other than the tablets?...BBB..?), PH >8.8, Total Alkalinity = 319, Total Hardness = 344 (That's Indiana water), Copper = 0, Quat = 0.

What should we do get things in balance?

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to the forum!

Your first step needs to be your own test kit. You simply can't stay on top of the water relying on a pool store for your testing. Your chlorine level will fluctuate hourly. Pool stores are just flat-out terrible at testing. Their results are often no better than guesses. The TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 are the recommended kits. TFTestkits.net is a great source of either kit.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

First you need to stop having the pool store test your water and get yourself one of the Recommended Test Kits.

While waiting for it, read Pool School a few times. Do you realize that the tablets and maybe the powdered "shock" are adding more CYA on top of the 3.5lbs you added? If not, better read Pool School again.

You need to start using liquid chlorine / bleach to raise and maintain the FC in the pool. And you need to get the pH back in the 7s. Those are the 2 most important things right now.

The BBB method is really just about understanding your pool’s chemistry and through accurate testing, adding only what the pool NEEDS and not what someone wants to sell you.

 

[linen]

Welcome to tfp, paulyd

Others beat me too it, here are my comments:

By the way, you should never fully drain a vinyl pool since the liner will likely not go back into place correctly. Sounds like you maybe got lucky?

Ignore TDS, it tells you nothing helpful about your pool chemistry since it does not tell what specific "disolveds solid" it is measuring.

How are you testing? You will need an appropriate test kit. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison

PH >8.8

This needs to be taken care of first. Use Muriatic Acid to lower this down to 7.2-7.8. It probably will take multiple applications of the Muriatic Acid, so dose then retest in one hour and recalculate/redose. Repeat until your ph is down in range.

We added 3.5 lbs of powdered CYA after testing

Assuming your pool is rectangular and about 22000 gallons, then you raised your cya by 19 ppm.

we put 3 - 3" tablets in the skimmer since

This would have added another 4.5 ppm for a total of ~24 ppm, we recommend 30-50 ppm cya. Have you looked at this pool school article?: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/recommended_levels

Have you used any other sources of cya since refilling? Dichlor or trichlor granules?

we put 3 - 3" tablets in the skimmer since we still have about a half a bucket of the tabs left - Can we use something else to help maintain the FC other than the tablets?

Definitely! Use bleach/liquid chlorine. See this pool school article: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/types_chlorine_pool

How does your water look?

 

[paulyd]

I am waiting for TF 100 test kit to come in the mail (should be her tomorrow or Mon). I will add Muriatic acid tonight or tomorrow to bring PH level down (How do I get my Total alk down?). I've read all of pool school and white a few posts - I just want to make sure I am doing it right. I really appreciate all of your help. You're the best!

 

[jblizzle]

TA is VERY low priority. It is a pH buffer and with it high, it will just make the pH rise faster. Work on understanding the chemistry, maintaining adequate FC, and keep the pH in range.

As you lower the pH, the TA will also slowly come down.

After everything else is understood and balanced, then you can consider being more aggressive about lower the TA following the article in Pool School: Lower Total Alkalinity

 

[Patrick_B]

I wanted to say welcome to TFP....

The others have you well covered and you are moving in the right direction. Congratulations on taking over you own pool. You
wont get into trouble following what we teach here, and it will be easier than you ever imagined.

 

[gatorbrit]

it will be easier than you ever imagined.

I just want to second that statement. Once you get it sorted, it is so easy - just a quick test, then add a bit of bleach. Takes a few minutes and the result is a sparkling pool.