Will do guys. I am still learning so I just assumed the pool store tests were okay. I'll post the results tonight
Getting the clear water back...
- Thread starter TN94z
- Start date
One thing I have learned here, trust your own results. Your test kits relies on repeatable, chemical-based tests with clear end points.
The computers and test strips rely on colors and ranges and subject to lighting and calibration errors.
The computers and test strips rely on colors and ranges and subject to lighting and calibration errors.
Okay, here we go. Let me preface this by saying the only test that really gave me trouble was the first one where the water is supposed to initially turn pink. It never really turned pink to begin with. It was more cloudy than anything.
From the k1000 basic kit:
Cl=less than .5. It didn't even have a yellow color
pH=at least 8.2. It was pretty dark. Now I did just add some pH increaser per the pool store's instruction before adding the Floc..this was on Monday.
From the TF100 kit:
This was the one I had the issues with
FC=4.5
CC=3.5
TC=8
T/A=80
CH=130
CYA=Almost 20...just below the line
Salt was 1980. I expected this because we have been vacuuming to waste so much.
Also, when is it safe to turn the fliter back on after adding the Floc product?
From the k1000 basic kit:
Cl=less than .5. It didn't even have a yellow color
pH=at least 8.2. It was pretty dark. Now I did just add some pH increaser per the pool store's instruction before adding the Floc..this was on Monday.
From the TF100 kit:
This was the one I had the issues with
FC=4.5
CC=3.5
TC=8
T/A=80
CH=130
CYA=Almost 20...just below the line
Salt was 1980. I expected this because we have been vacuuming to waste so much.
Also, when is it safe to turn the fliter back on after adding the Floc product?
If the yellow OTO was basically clear, that means you have very low chlorine in the pool ... so your FC and CC are doubtful from the FAS-DPD test. It should start from a pretty good pink if there is chlorine in the water.
You need to lower the pH, raise the FC, raise the CYA, raise the salt ... BUT ... I have no idea the proper way of using floc, so no idea when you can do what.
You need to lower the pH, raise the FC, raise the CYA, raise the salt ... BUT ... I have no idea the proper way of using floc, so no idea when you can do what.
jblizzle said:
That all makes sense and was expected. I actually had better luck with the tests this time, so once I get the adjustments made, I will continue testing on my own. Thanks. I will report back once I work on this
jblizzle said:
So I have been doing some reading this morning and I want to make sure I am thinking correctly.
-To lower the pH, I should add some MA and use the pool calculator to determine how much
-The FC will be raised once the salt level is back to normal and more chlorine is being generated
-The CYA is raised by adding stabilizer
Does that all sound right?
Lower pH with MA, yes.
You will need to SLAM the pool before you turn back on the SWG. It won't cure any algae problem. Once you go green from algae, they have a hard time making enough chlorine to do the job. Use bleach to SLAM. Read the link in my sig line on doing that. As for slime bags lasting, I've only had mine one season, but I think they will last a long time if you follow the care/cleaning instructions.
You will need to SLAM the pool before you turn back on the SWG. It won't cure any algae problem. Once you go green from algae, they have a hard time making enough chlorine to do the job. Use bleach to SLAM. Read the link in my sig line on doing that. As for slime bags lasting, I've only had mine one season, but I think they will last a long time if you follow the care/cleaning instructions.
Lower the pH with muriatic acid
Raise the CYA with stabilizer (this will also lower the pH some)
Adding more salt will not increase the amount of FC output. You have to increase the % output and/or lengthen the pump run time to increase the SWG FC output.
But, as brushpup said, you need to complete a proper SLAM without the SWG before you start dealing with that.
Raise the CYA with stabilizer (this will also lower the pH some)
Adding more salt will not increase the amount of FC output. You have to increase the % output and/or lengthen the pump run time to increase the SWG FC output.
But, as brushpup said, you need to complete a proper SLAM without the SWG before you start dealing with that.
jblizzle said:
Okay. Thanks guys. Yeah, I knew the run time or % would have to be increased after adding the salt. I just didn't finish my thought there.
So I'm still reading here and I am getting a good picture of what needs to happen. I do have one other question though. When using the pool calculator, I enter 35000 gallons, a start pH of 8.2 and a goal pH of 7.5. It says I need 59oz of MA. But what about the drop down? Which do I choose?
Look on the acid bottle and find out what percentage it is for strength and choose that one.
Brushpup said:
Okay, just making sure. Alright guys, I think I have my plan. I will report back when I get through the SLAM process which, judging by that process and getting these other levels where they should be, will be a few days.
Sand filters will filter down to 25 microns, therefore missing a lot of small pool particles. DE will filter down to 4 microns, and a cartridge will filter down to 15 microns. That is why you would use a clarifier, or a floculent, to vacuum the pool. There is a products called fiber clear that will filter down to 2 microns and washes clean much easier that DE.
heythatguy said:
Rarely are the use of clarifiers or flocs recommended by this forum as they can sometimes cause more problems than good.
Any filter can successfully have crystal clear water. The use of a little DE in a sand filter can help speed the clearing process if required without the need to put unneeded chemicals in the pool.
Alright guys, got a new question. I go home last night and check out the water just to see if it has gotten any better. Well, I don't know if it took this Floc stuff longer to work or what (bottle says overnight) but the water is clear again. I can see the bottom no problem now. It still needs to be vacuumed but the water is 100% better than it was.
Should I still go ahead and slam it? I don't mind. I just want to know if I should still do this. Thanks
Should I still go ahead and slam it? I don't mind. I just want to know if I should still do this. Thanks
So you're saying the floc worked??? Awesome. Go ahead and vac it, I wouldn't worry the "SLAM" process, just maintain proper chlorine levels from this point forward and all should be kosher.
jblizzle said:
The problem with floc is that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. That's not our definition of trouble free. Besides in a properly manitained pool it's just not needed. Clarifier works better than floc but it's only recommended in special rare cases.
Bama Rambler said:
Yeah, the more I read, the more I understand where that comes from. But I fully understand why this problem happened and all the blame is on me. I don't argue that at all. But it has opened my eyes to what my job needs to be and that I need to step up this maintenance side and stop relying on pool stores to tell me this stuff.
So do you agree that I don't need to slam it now? The reason I ask is because I was going to buy the products needed today before I go home.
Personally I would run an OCLT tonight at normal FC level and see what it showed and decide from there.
Bama Rambler said:
Okay. I need to get my CYA and FC to where it needs to be and then I will run the OCLT. Right now my chemicals are out of balance (as you can see from above). So I will start there.
I say this because my FC reading from before was not accurate because it looks like there is not much chlorine in there at all.