Pump loses jet flow in one day.

Jump to latest Follow Reply
M

msifland

0
Aug 25, 2013
9
I made the conversion from baquacil to chlorine, changed sand in my filter. Before I made the conversion I was having to backwash every couple days because I would lose flow from the jets and suction in skimmer, and filter pressure would go up to 26 psi from 23. When this would happen I also would notice that there would be air in the pump basket. after a couple days, basket would only be about half full with water. I would backwash and everything would be fine for about 2 days. I used some acid filter cleaner and that helped some.

Then I decided to go to chlorine, that process is finished and with the sand being as disgusting as it was I thought new sand would alleviate this problem. After changing the sand, I am still experiencing the same problem. After a day the suction and jets flow is very low and I have to backwash to get it back. After backwash the psi is 20, then went up to 25 in a day, flow is low and air in pump basket. Can't find any leaks, and everything alway comes back to normal after a backwash. I'm new to pools, first year. I am perplexed with this and would appreciate any input. Thank you.

25,000 gallon rectangle inground pool
2 return jets, I robot jet, 1 return.
Hayward S200 sand filter
Chlorine
 
I would like to add that I may have found a leak...I noticed water coming out the multiport and the base of the handle. I don't know if this would have anything to do with the above problem I described or not.
 
Water is now clear after conversion, but wasn't completely clear when I first changed the sand. I do still have to vaccuum stuff from the bottome of the pool, there is some debris there. I haven't looked at backwash water coming out of the pipe, I don't know how it looks.
It does seem like it's doing it's job. I just thought one day was kind of quick for it to get that clogged.
Also for the follow up, do you think that the water that I descibed on the top of the multi port is a problem, does something have to be done there?
 
Water should not be coming out the top of the multiport. I do not recall if there is a o-ring on the shaft of the handle of if that would point to the spider gasket leaking. Although if the spider gasket were leaking, usually dirt would be able to bypass the filter.

To confirm do you have a plunger valve with only filter and backwash or a handle that rotates between 5-6 settings?

BTW, if you are continually having to vacuum stuff off the bottom, that kind of points toward something chemically amiss ... like you are not maintaining enough FC so there is algae constantly being killed off. Please post a full set of test results and more details about what you are observing in the water.
 
gtemkin said:
Also, sure seems like your filter is undersize for the pool size you have.
Click to expand...

Ah that is a good point. For a 25k pool, we would recommend a minimum of a 4.6 sqft (29") sand filter. Yours is only a 2.2 sqft filter so less than half the recommended size which will result in more frequent cleanings.
 
I have a valve with several settings, filter, waste, backwash, recirc, rinse, and I think there is one other. I just finished the conversion from baquacil in the last two days, my water is clear with, what looks like to me, dead algae on the bottom. I brushed and wiped down the whole pool, after everything settled that's where the stuff on the bottom has come from, I have to vaccum it out to waste. I just didn't think that the filter should clog in 24 hours, maybe it should, as it is still sucking in stuff from.

What I remember from my test strip this morning:
FC 3
ph: 7.5
ta 73
ch 100
cya 35
 
Well, pieces are starting to fall into place:
1. You do not have one of the Recommended Test Kits ... so ...
2. How do you know if your properly performed and completed the conversion?

Did you follow this process? pool-school/baqua_chlorine_conversion

From what you have described, I am not sure you followed the recommended conversion process or if it was completed. Since how would you have been accurately measuring the FC levels of 15ppm while only used test strips?
 
The kit goes to ten and I was keeping it darker than that, and from all the other things I've read including on this forum, which isn't the only conversion method, I have completed the process. If I have not should that cause my filter to clog after one day? Should it cause my multiport to be leaking out of the top? The water itself is now clear and holding chlorine overnight, and the baquacil test strips show no baquacil either. I had water you couldn't see an inch into that was colored green and brown through this process and it took 2 weeks to get the water to a clear state and holding chlorine over night.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Well, I can not speak for "other methods" but the method we recommend requires accurate testing to know when you are complete ... like being able to Perform the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test with an accuracy of 1ppm ... how were you able to differentiate between a FC of 15ppm and 14ppm?

If the filter is clogging, then it is pulling something out of the water. And nothing in this process has anything to do with the water leaking from the valve ... unless since you have had to turn it so often the seal is not going bad.

At this point there are a few issues:
1. You filter is way too small
2. Without accurate test results, I have no way of confirming if the conversion is truly complete or if you now have low level algae growing ... either of which could be causing filter clogging.
 
If your filter is clogging in a day, it has to be something in the water or a very restricted filter area. How long do you backwash? 3 or 4 minutes isn't excessive.
 
I see, good info, and thank you for it. I do apprciate it.
I usually backwash 3 to 5 minutes depeding on how low the flow was. Now that I listen and think about what you are saying, it probably is residual dead algea and other debris, like the stuff that is in the bottom of the pool right now. I just haven't had the opportunity to vaccuum yet. I will do that and see how it goes. Thank you again for your help :)

Oh, yeah, it seems like a pretty big filter. Hayward s200, took 200 pounds of sand.
 
msifland said:
Oh, yeah, it seems like a pretty big filter. Hayward s200, took 200 pounds of sand.
Click to expand...
Well it is not. The area of the filter is the important parameter and yours is 2.2 sqft ... which is less than half of the 4.6 sqft that we would recommend. You have a big pool, so you need a big filter.

Like the S310S or S310T2 (500lb sand filters) ... even the S270T/T2 (350lb sand) would be closer to the right size
 
Just to add, the S200 will function for you ... although if you had a very big pump, it would not work as well as some dirt may get pushed through the sand (Opposite problem from what you are observing ;) )

Many members only have to backwash their filters 1-2 times per year ... and that is what the recommendations we have sort or lean toward as far as size recommendations.

If you have very low debris and/or a short swim season, then having the larger filters is not as important.
 
msifland said:
....Now that I listen and think about what you are saying, it probably is residual dead algea and other debris, like the stuff that is in the bottom of the pool right now. I just haven't had the opportunity to vaccuum yet. I will do that and see how it goes.....
Click to expand...

It would be optimistic to say the algae is "dead" or "residual". It may currently be 100% alive and waiting for you to drop your chlorine level slightly to bloom again. As Jason and others have been pointing out, there is no way to ensure you don't have a continuing live algae problem (even though the water appears clear) unless you have a proper test kit and perform the prescribed testing to completion.

The SLAM level of 15ppm chorine is a MINIMUM level you must achieve and hold. If you need 15ppm, then a test kit that only reads up to 10ppm will not work even though you may think your good enough based on the darkness of your test strip. You may actually be at 10.5ppm or 12ppm or 14ppm; none of which are 15ppm.

You may get lucky, but don't be surprised if you have continuing problems. A proper recommended drop based test kit, not inaccurate test strips or pool store printouts, are key to the BBB method.

Just my thoughts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply