AutoPilot Digital... help please

[jen140]

We replaced the cell (SC-48 with the RC-42) and put on a new cord. The tri-sensor cord remains and seems to be working ok. Since replacing the cell, we get 'warnings' ...clean/check cell and sometimes 'low amps'... The test was done when in boost mode. The salt levels are 3200 ppm,
the temperature is 82... The Volts are usually at 22 the Amps run from 4.7 to 5.4. All we did was replace the cell and cord. Did not go into any maintenance menus, nor did we bother the pump button.... Not sure where to go from here. The unit was replaced in 2009, we do have a huge surge protector on our incoming electric boxes (outside) and they are still showing green... but in SE FL...the power can be crazy.

Chlorine level is at 1 and residual at 1... Stabilizer is a bit low, but not 'gone'... Also need to add hardness to the water - these all based on test done at the pool store yesterday. I have what I need to add, but I was waiting to see what I needed to do re: the cell.... in case further tests might help.
Thanks so much....

 

[linen]

Welcome to tfp, jen140

Hopefully someone with more experienced with that system will chime in soon

Meanwhile, you likely need some more chlorine in the pool to ensure you do not get algae in your pool. I would use bleach or liquid chlorine to do this until you have the swg sorted out. Do you know what your cya (stabilizer) level is?

 

[Bama Rambler]

Welcome to TFP.

Post a full set of test results for us.
Low amps could be a bad connection on the cell cable.
What type and what size pool is it?

 

[jen140]

Welcome to TFP.

Post a full set of test results for us.
Low amps could be a bad connection on the cell cable.
What type and what size pool is it?

Added 3 bags of shock for Salt pools and 1 Gal of liquid stabilizer, still need to add 8.9 lbs of calcium hardness... We tried reversing the cell cable (it has 3 holes the RC-42 only uses two... we may try to re-attach the old cable??
It is a Pebble Tec standard size pool with a self cleaning system by A&A Mfgr

Test results from pool store yesterday:

pH 7.4
Total Alk 95
Calcium Hardness 235
Stabilizer 40
Salt 4400 ....which I question. When I checked it, it said 3600 ...the AutoPilot Digital says 3200.

The 'printer' screwed up and the guy who was new...was manually putting numbers on my paper...???

 

[linen]

As bama mentioned, what size pool?
Also what pool surface (vinyl, plaster, fiberglass)?

Better yet please put you pool and equipment details in your signature, here is link describing how to do that: http://www.troublefreepool.com/what-we-need-to-know-to-answer-your-questions-t10341.html

 

[Bama Rambler]

How old is the pool?

Is the gallon of stabilizer all that you've added?

I'd try changing the cable out first and see what that does.

 

[jen140]

Added 3 bags of shock for salt pool, 1 gal stabilizer and 8 lbs of calcium hardness...pool is 11 years old.... changed the cable back to the old one, no difference, so put the new one
back on... readings still 22V 5a.

 

[Bama Rambler]

If Sean doesn't see this in a little while, PM him and ask him to take a look.

 

[linen]

Be careful adding cya when using pool store cya tests (and Calcium for that matter). Pool store testing tends to be unreliable and cya is one they get wrong more than right. I highly recommend you look at this pool school article: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison

 

[jen140]

Thanks so much... if I knew now to PM Sean ...I sure would!! Apparently from further testing we may need to replace the whole 'box'.... comments?? It seems that at least three capacitors appear to be bad...so cheapest way with guarantee is to replace the control unit.....(not really cheapest, but you have all new with a guarantee) ...is it something that can easily be done, switching wires over...or is there more to it than that??

 

[Bama Rambler]

His user name is Poolsean. You can click on his name and it'll take you to his member page where you can PM him.

 

[stevesxm]

We replaced the cell (SC-48 with the RC-42) and put on a new cord. The tri-sensor cord remains and seems to be working ok. Since replacing the cell, we get 'warnings' ...clean/check cell and sometimes 'low amps'... The test was done when in boost mode. The salt levels are 3200 ppm,
the temperature is 82... The Volts are usually at 22 the Amps run from 4.7 to 5.4. All we did was replace the cell and cord. Did not go into any maintenance menus, nor did we bother the pump button.... Not sure where to go from here. The unit was replaced in 2009, we do have a huge surge protector on our incoming electric boxes (outside) and they are still showing green... but in SE FL...the power can be crazy.

Chlorine level is at 1 and residual at 1... Stabilizer is a bit low, but not 'gone'... Also need to add hardness to the water - these all based on test done at the pool store yesterday. I have what I need to add, but I was waiting to see what I needed to do re: the cell.... in case further tests might help.
Thanks so much....

in the intiall install menu there are a series of system settings . in one of them you tell the device what cell is in it. if you have replaced a 48 with a 42 and didn't tell your system that then its still looking for the various values generated by the 48 and is likely the source of your error messages. go back into the installer menu and make sure the device knows what cell you actually have .

 

[JoshU]

It seems that at least three capacitors appear to be bad...so cheapest way with guarantee is to replace the control unit.....(not really cheapest, but you have all new with a guarantee) ...is it something that can easily be done, switching wires over...or is there more to it than that??

If the capacitors are bad you are correct that it is better to replace the entire DIG-220 instead of just the power module board. It shouldn't be too difficult to change over since your electrical wiring is already run to the unit. The DIG-220 includes a manual with any of the wiring diagrams you would need.

 

[jen140]

Hey Josh.... You were totally right with your diagnosis...that the capacitors were bad. We were referred to our area AutoPilot guy...and yesterday he replaced the DIG-220 unit and the 'newly replaced' power cord (which was bad also). Interesting thing...the capacitors had opened a bit more in the few days time and if you smelled the board, it smelled burned. The tri-sensor seems to be working for now - but the salt reading was WAY off, so it was calibrated, and the entire unit was 'set-up'. This was the thing I was concerned about doing...husband can hang the box, change the wires, but...set it up for the right cell, etc...we haven't a clue...and when it comes to anything not 'mechanical'....you could be in major trouble with Mr. Non-Tech... So we now have a new cell, new power cord and new power module.